Hello all,
Though I'm a newbie on this site I'm certainly not a newbie to Volvos. I currently have an 87 245 that has 345k miles on the original engine and still runs great (I am the original owner). The "new" Volvo is a '98 V90 (120k miles) that, I hate to say, is no where near the car the 240 is. Sure, it's a sweet ride... when it's NOT giving me headaches. There unfortunately have been many headaches along the way. However, it's just too pretty to get rid of...
Now, the purpose of my first MVS post:
I will be doing work on the front end (control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends). Does anyone know the torque specs/procedures) for these items?
Any help is appreciated.
~ John
V90 Front Suspension Parts - Torque Specs
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.
A good looking car but the older models had more character.
If the specs aren't all in this list let me know of any others you need:
Bill.
A good looking car but the older models had more character.
If the specs aren't all in this list let me know of any others you need:
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
Thanks for the quick response but I think I need add'l clarification. The control arm has 3 connection points: the "rear" at the tranny crossmember, the "front", and to the "ball joint".
Per your attachment I interpret the specs for these connectons to be:
"front" at 66 lbs.
"ball joint" at 52 lbs.
I am unclear about the "rear" location. Is that considered the "drive shaft nut"?
Your attachment does not specify the spec for the outer tie rod.
Perhaps it's all there and I am simply note correlating it.
Your thoughts, Bill.
Per your attachment I interpret the specs for these connectons to be:
"front" at 66 lbs.
"ball joint" at 52 lbs.
I am unclear about the "rear" location. Is that considered the "drive shaft nut"?
Your attachment does not specify the spec for the outer tie rod.
Perhaps it's all there and I am simply note correlating it.
Your thoughts, Bill.
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Apologies for the confusion and delay in replying.
Attached is the VADIS parts diagram for the front suspension.
The "drive shaft nut" is a misprint and should read the hub nut (item 34 on the attachment). You shouldn't be touching this.
The control arm rear bushing is held in place by the stay so has no torque setting. Attachment describes how to do it.
There is no torque setting for the outer tie rod.
Bill.
Attached is the VADIS parts diagram for the front suspension.
The "drive shaft nut" is a misprint and should read the hub nut (item 34 on the attachment). You shouldn't be touching this.
The control arm rear bushing is held in place by the stay so has no torque setting. Attachment describes how to do it.
There is no torque setting for the outer tie rod.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
Replaced all the parts, got it realigned. Drives smooth and straight. MOST of the rattles are gone, not all. I will check the sway bars rubber next. Steering wheel still vibrates badly upon hard braking... will replace rotors/pads tonight.
The next projects in keeping this thing alive:
1) Water pump/timing belt replacement
2) Solving that pesky intermittent A/C problem that I attribute to vacuum issues.
The next projects in keeping this thing alive:
1) Water pump/timing belt replacement
2) Solving that pesky intermittent A/C problem that I attribute to vacuum issues.
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Thank you for the update.
Bill.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
Rotors/pads replace last night... vibrations solved. Front end is ALMOST 100% again. There's still one rattle in there annoying me. This weekend it will be sway bar links and rubber. Hopefully that should take care of it once and for all.
Besides the water pump/timing belt and A/C issues there two other little items to take care of:
1) The interior handle mechanism still opens the door but no longer flips back flush with the panel. I suspect there's a spring in there somewhere that has gone kaput.
2) The exterior power mirror will adjust side to side but not up/down. That you can move freely by hand. I suspect a gear issue. A new mirror is in the $350 range so I will look for a parts donor mirror and try to repair.
What is killng me most about this car at this time is the demise of the plastic/rubber parts. It's just an age issue I supose.
~ John
Besides the water pump/timing belt and A/C issues there two other little items to take care of:
1) The interior handle mechanism still opens the door but no longer flips back flush with the panel. I suspect there's a spring in there somewhere that has gone kaput.
2) The exterior power mirror will adjust side to side but not up/down. That you can move freely by hand. I suspect a gear issue. A new mirror is in the $350 range so I will look for a parts donor mirror and try to repair.
What is killng me most about this car at this time is the demise of the plastic/rubber parts. It's just an age issue I supose.
~ John
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
There is a return spring which sits just behind the interior handle. They sometimes work loose or occasionally break.
The problem with the mirror is probably the motor which will be a lot cheaper than a complete mirror. The same motor was used in the S/V40 from 2000 - 2004.
Bill.
The problem with the mirror is probably the motor which will be a lot cheaper than a complete mirror. The same motor was used in the S/V40 from 2000 - 2004.
It happens to us all. My plastic and rubber parts are certainly past their use by date.What is killng me most about this car at this time is the demise of the plastic/rubber parts. It's just an age issue I supose.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
This weekend sway bar rubber and end links replaced. Squeals, groans, squeeks are now history and the suspension is now sweet again. While I was at it I replaced the accelerator cable with the new part I had purchased a while back from the local Volvo dealer. The part that attached to the hole in the firewall broke and the unit would just hang flopping off the f/w. When it did the revs would shoot to limit making the car undrivable. I fabricated a bracket that would hold the unit tight to the f/w, at least until I could swap it out. It was once again driveable. It was a temp fix that I probably could have left permanently but that just would not have been right. Part replaced, all is good.
I searched, and found, vacuum leaks that I will highlight in another post.
~ John
I searched, and found, vacuum leaks that I will highlight in another post.
~ John
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