Login Register

88 Volvo 765 tic Front Strut Shuddering.

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
1997 - 1998 V90/S90

Post Reply
lummert
Posts: 1381
Joined: 29 January 2008
Year and Model: 760 1988
Location: Portland Indiana, USA
Been thanked: 26 times

88 Volvo 765 tic Front Strut Shuddering.

Post by lummert »

I have another problem that I need some help with. When applying the brakes the left front strut shudders. I have no vibration in the steering wheel and no pulsating in the brake pedal. The lower control arm bushings and strut rod bushing all look good. The front brake rotors and brake pads look good also. The only thing I found is one swaybar endlink bushing that has a split in it. The car is 88 Volvo 765 tic with 206000 miles on it. I have owned the car for more than two years and it has had this problem since I bought it.

Thanks

User avatar
jonesg
Posts: 3512
Joined: 16 January 2008
Year and Model: 2004 V70
Location: Northern maine.
Has thanked: 70 times
Been thanked: 483 times

Post by jonesg »

You can install neoprene bushings on the endlinks for the swaybars, just be ready for the links to snap. I think they make em from old twigs.
A cutoff disk in a drill removed them very quickly.

I'm also told the conical bushings can cause shuddering if they're worn out, I'm doing them on mine in the mornin.

lummert
Posts: 1381
Joined: 29 January 2008
Year and Model: 760 1988
Location: Portland Indiana, USA
Been thanked: 26 times

Post by lummert »

I had the strut rod bushings checked and they looked ok. I have already checked out who has best price on swaybar endlink kits

Thanks

User avatar
jonesg
Posts: 3512
Joined: 16 January 2008
Year and Model: 2004 V70
Location: Northern maine.
Has thanked: 70 times
Been thanked: 483 times

Post by jonesg »

I got my endlinks from the volvo dealer, big mistake but I was in a rush and no-one had the aftmkt ones, I paid $114. !!!

Just did the driver side link, that one snapped also.
I also did the conical bushings, seems to have stopped the vibration so far but I changed the balljoints too at the same time so who knows what was causing it.

Before touching the links I'd get a cutoff tool, either an air tool or at least the drill adapter for the cutoff disks, I did the first one with a hacksaw and it was hard work. A carbide disk removed the second one in 2 minutes.

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post