Subframe bushings - has anybody tried

Post by **JimBee** » 24 May 2017, 22:33

A drop-spacer-and-push-out method?

Suppose you drop a corner of the subframe half an inch with the center bolt completely out (or the rear gusset removed). Then place a spacer ring between the top of the bushing and the bottom of the mating body-frame that it all connects to.

Then place on the underside of the bushing a sturdy ring of some kind that's just larger than the bottom of the bushing. Then jack up the ring, which will raise the subframe, forcing the bushing out through the ring beneath it. It might come through far enough to get hold of it with a T-Rex channel lock to wrench it out.

Would this work?

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 24 May 2017, 22:54

If you could machine the spacer to spec, I don't see why it shouldn't work. If you think about it as a control arm bushings, sure, it'd probably work. All you need is about a cm (maybe less) before you can wedge a screwdriver in there and pop em out.

But then, of course, you wouldn't have the fun of drilling, prying, burning, poking old bushings for hours...

Post by **oragex** » 25 May 2017, 05:14

As above, these really are big bushings, nothing like the control arm ones.. and the control arm ones are all but easy to press back in. You can still drill the bushing in several places until it falls from there, then saw the ring, but it's inserting the new bushing that's the whole problem. Really not doable with the subframe on the car.

Post by **JimBee** » 25 May 2017, 05:23

So here are the bushings:
https://www.google.com/search?q=volvo+8 ... 8&oe=utf-8

With the old bushings removed, please help me understand why, maybe with a little vaseline, you couldn't jack the new bushings right into place?

Having not seen one out of the car, how far would the subframe corners need to drop to replace these?

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 25 May 2017, 09:04

JimBee wrote: ↑25 May 2017, 05:23
With the old bushings removed, please help me understand why, maybe with a little vaseline, you couldn't jack the new bushings right into place?

Having not seen one out of the car, how far would the subframe corners need to drop to replace these?

You can totally push them in. Pushing them in is the easy part! I wouldn't use vaseline though. Silicone spray or synthetic grease is probably better for the plastic and the rubber on the subframe bushing. You only need to drop the subframe about an inch to install a new bushing. Again, it's getting them out that blows. You have to drill, pick, poke, burn, cut and then pry the old ones out of there. Some will be easier than others. I had two that were pretty easy, when I removed the bolt the inside just fell out. I had a lot of success using a drill bit on my dremel, but that sent molten rubber flying everywhere and didn't feel nice when it landed all over my face. Luckily I found a faceshield.

Here's my write up of the procedure. Do yourself a favor and use Volvo bushings, doing this job two times in two months is not fun. Especially since the newer Proparts bushings will be harder to remove than the old ones!

viewtopic.php?t=77040

Post by **mrbrian200** » 25 May 2017, 11:06

Use a 2 part 6 or 12 hour epoxy as a lubricant to push them in, then let it cure before you drive the car. Volvo I believe has a TSB that advises against using any sort of grease/lubricants/oils as it can persist and you end up with the bushing moving/clunking around in the subframe as you drive.

Post by **JimBee** » 25 May 2017, 11:23

mrbrian200 wrote: ↑25 May 2017, 11:06 Use a 2 part 6 or 12 hour epoxy as a lubricant to push them in, then let it cure before you drive the car. Volvo I believe has a TSB that advises against using any sort of grease/lubricants/oils as it can persist and you end up with the bushing moving/clunking around in the subframe as you drive.

The 2 part epoxy seems like a forever repair. Could you ever get them out again if needed?

Post by **JimBee** » 25 May 2017, 11:32

There's a lot more coverage of this topic than I thought. Thanks to all who have shared their experiences. Some good ideas. My suspensions are getting pretty clunky so am thinking about the most cost-effective repairs.

About the shorter lengths of new center bolts. Location of the thread lock suggests the part of the bolt that captures in the receiver is the same. But the longer original probably gets rusty north of the capture part creating a problem when you remove it (like the lower outside corners of the headlight bucket). If reusing the originals, would it be wise to cut them off to avoid that problem?

Post by **smacknab** » 11 Mar 2020, 20:11

For anyone looking for tips while the subframe is on, I drilled up the plastic sidewall at 4 corners and it ate away at the material to relieve the pressure and they came right out. For the last one I used some grease (came with the IPD bushing kit with poly inserts) and screwed it in with the old bolt and a washer, with a 1/2 in extension between the frame and the subframe. With the grease it went right in straight with no problems, then I took the bolt back out and replaced with the fresh one.