2001 V70XC - 200,000 Miles Makeover Topic is solved

[xHeart]

Four flange screws from the upper engine stabilizer mount. The tall one (top-left) came out with a ring-of-aluminum wrapped over the first 2 threads of the screws. It wasn't torque to spec the last PCV job. Does it indicate thread inside stripping -- repairable?

MVS_V70XC_0865.jpg (84.21 KiB) Viewed 692 times

The rear exhaust Volvo seal was replaced during the PCV job little more than a year ago. It appears to be seating right - why would it fail so soon?

MVS_V70XC_0866.jpg (141.47 KiB) Viewed 692 times

[volvolugnut]

It may be the tall screw has bottomed on the full thread form in the hole. Do we know if this screw should be longer than the others? What I am trying to say is the screw bottomed out in the threaded hole and the last two threaded 'tapped' the incomplete threads to reach full depth.
If this happened, there should be no real damage to the screw or the tapped hole. Measure the thickness to be clamped by this screw and determine if it is too long. Inspect the bottom of the hole to see if there is more than minor thread forming by the screw.

Most taps have a bevel on end of the thread of several threads before they create the full thread form that will match the screw.

volvlolugnut

[- Pete -]

Was that rear exhaust seal pushed in all the way initially? Both rears I've done recently had old oil evidence, that doesn't look old to me.

By the way, what kind of seal is that? Volvo?

I'm guessing you weren't able to get Elring seals for the rears were you?

On our 284k XC70 I ran 1-Elring and 1-Corteco, sort of as a "race" to see which one leaks first. They definitely have different physical designs/qualities and measurements.

The top torque mount bolt is interesting. Was it loose when you went to back it out?
If it was mine, I'd blow out the hole, clean those threads with a die & ease it back in after doing what Volvolugnut described.
Afterall, it is just for the torque mount.

How'd the 110V HF Impact do on the big burly crank nut?

[vtl]

Crankcase pressure can drive this oil out.

[xHeart]

Thanks VTL!

Was that rear exhaust seal pushed in all the way initially? Both rears I've done recently had old oil evidence, that doesn't look old to me.

By the way, what kind of seal is that? Volvo?

I'm guessing you weren't able to get Elring seals for the rears were you?

On our 284k XC70 I ran 1-Elring and 1-Corteco, sort of as a "race" to see which one leaks first. They definitely have different physical designs/qualities and measurements.

The top torque mount bolt is interesting. Was it loose when you went to back it out?
If it was mine, I'd blow out the hole, clean those threads with a die & ease it back in after doing what Volvolugnut described.
Afterall, it is just for the torque mount.

How'd the 110V HF Impact do on the big burly crank nut?

The rear exhaust seal is Volvo. It was replaced November 2018 during the PCV maintenance. I do not have experience of using Elring seals.

The space feels tight for 55T over VVT screw. For now my next steps are:

I take the serp/accessory belt off first, then timing cover.
Now get timing marks aligned.
Next, with your 30mm on the crank nut & a breaker bar, go 90* clockwise beyond, stop, then roll it back to your timing marks.
Then blast the nut off with your impact.
Remove serpentine pulley, put nut back on finger tight & realign timing marks w/breaker bar. It never hurts to do the 90*’s past once again if you want to. After that, blast the crank nut off with your impact again (crank & cams should not move), verify timing marks are still correct. I make white paint marks on these - top timing cover which correspond to the notches below, timing belt itself, and fronts of cam sprockets.

You can install the cam locking tool now or after the timing belt is removed.

[- Pete -]

You’ll need to move the wire loom off the passenger side strut tower. It takes a little force the first time, there are 2-3 plastic tabs securing the plastic wire covering to the inside of the strut tower.

I can find a pic if that description isn’t suitable.

Plastic tabs which must be freed from side of strut tower to move wire loom

C90912E8-7AD2-4840-96A5-BAAC0618CF38.jpeg (89.88 KiB) Viewed 658 times

Once wire loom is freed you can get your torque wrench/breaker bar between the loom and strut tower

11D94E8C-B7C2-4CAA-A0F2-6A7B2C36635D.jpeg (76.47 KiB) Viewed 658 times

In the video below scroll to 15:30 & you can see how he has his torque wrench behind the wire loom.

[xHeart]

Bauer and the Beast, nut spins off -- four 10mm are also loose. The timing marks are holding in place. Installing camshaft locking tool after timing belt is off.

MVS_V70XC_0867.jpg (121.54 KiB) Viewed 657 times

MVS_V70XC_0868.jpg (112.89 KiB) Viewed 657 times

[vtl]

Now you have a great handy tool that can do Haldex flange nut, bevel gear locking nut, semi-frozen bolts, etc

[xHeart]

Now you have a great handy tool that can do Haldex flange nut, bevel gear locking nut, semi-frozen bolts, etc :)

What fun vtl!

[- Pete -]

I forgot something - you can use I believe it is a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench on the shank of the T-55 to get the plug out of the exhaust VVT hub. Ultimately you’ll need to move the wire loom to get an accurate torque on the T-55 bolt that requires 88# torque though.