2001 V70XC - 200,000 Miles Makeover Topic is solved

[- Pete -]

You’re fine, with the cams locked there will be no valve contact made.

Just grab the crank gear with your hand and roll it back so it’s lined up & carry on as usual.

[vtl]

Valves/piston contact still can be made, but I don't think you can bend valve that easy.

[- Pete -]

Thanks, I should have been more clear.

Moving only that much w/cams locked no contact will be made. And if so not enough force to bend anything.

[vtl]

Once I broke my DIY 1/8" mild steel cam lock tool and thus applied the full force required to torque the camshaft bolt onto valves and piston - nothing bad happened, besides -$140 for the forged steel lock tool

Nothing to worry about at all if your cam/crank setup moved or even piston touched the valves. It will not cause any damage.

[xHeart]

Whew!
It is now adjust back to aligned marks. How will it stay in place with torque wrench when harmonic balance goes on?

[vtl]

You have an impact wrench, you have no such worries anymore. I usually put a belt first and then torque the crank nut.

[abscate]

Whew!
It is now adjust back to aligned marks. How will it stay in place with torque wrench when harmonic balance goes on?

Perfectly if you lock the crankshaft per the Volvo procedure



You can also temporarily replace the M6 bolts with cheap long bolts and then counter hold with a bar

[xHeart]

Learning the use for power tools, and restored few items in addition to:

- Hub/Pulley #1275363 (Volvo)
- Intake Camshaft Seal -- Sealing Ring #9458309 (Volvo)
- Exhaust Camshaft Seal -- Sealing Ring #9458309 (Volvo)
- Engine Camshaft Plug Cap #1397381 (Volvo)
- Engine Expansion Plug #1275364 (Volvo)
- Oil Pump Gasket Kit #274260 (Volvo)
- Timing belt components - belt, pulley, and tensioner
- Waterpump (Aisin)
- Serpentine belt - belt and tensioner

Why does torquing feels like a stressful circus?

After reading few hands-on, and checking VIDA, the t-belt was installed while holding vvt hub in full-advance (aka preload) -- the three 8mm bolts were loosen at this install to reset timing marks. Once the belt was on, and concurrently holding hub in full-advance position, VIDA says to apply tensioner's steps -- a juggler like experience.

Next step is Pete's suggestion to verify timing before s-belt goes on -- a cool discovery step for me.

Here is a progress pix:

MVS_V70XC_0892.jpg (142.19 KiB) Viewed 679 times

[xHeart]

It may be the tall screw has bottomed on the full thread form in the hole. Do we know if this screw should be longer than the others? What I am trying to say is the screw bottomed out in the threaded hole and the last two threaded 'tapped' the incomplete threads to reach full depth.
If this happened, there should be no real damage to the screw or the tapped hole. Measure the thickness to be clamped by this screw and determine if it is too long. Inspect the bottom of the hole to see if there is more than minor thread forming by the screw.

Most taps have a bevel on end of the thread of several threads before they create the full thread form that will match the screw.

volvlolugnut

Getting closer to installing the upper engine stabilizer mount. The long flange screw is 10x1.5x70 with ring of material. Here is the pix of location at the back of the block where it fastens the mount -- a pass through thread, there is no bottom. How to restore so it can take torque?

MVS_V70XC_08651.jpg (76.93 KiB) Viewed 659 times

MVS_V70XC_0893.jpg (106.27 KiB) Viewed 655 times

[vtl]

Threaded insert, or leave it alone: 3 bolts will be enough.