Engine died while driving and won't start. Topic is solved

[valvolvo70]

Whoa! I don't recall starting a Apple vs. PC forum! I don't like clutter!

[abscate]

The fuel injection relay is in the boot shaped fuse box under the hood. It is the one in the toe of the boot (2/32). The relay supplies power to the injectors via fuse 11B/2. So check fuse 11B/2. Same fuse box the small #2.

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Thank you Rick/Erik, yesterday I bookmarked both those posts. Also checked the fuse and it looks good. Just cranked the engine over today and it started! I let it run for 5 minutes and noticed I'm having the same rough idle/sputter/dies/won't start issue from my other post 18+ months ago. I'm going to get a "I told you so" from abscate.

Crap, I remember now. The pulse damper fix. Yeah, that part hasn’t fixed a Volvo in history since the T. rex

We will conquer this

[Jaydiesel]

I was having almost the same issue with my 850. Ended up replacing the fuel pump after replacing alot of other parts. Before I replaced the fuel pump what would happen is the fuel pump would prime the car at the start or get enough fuel in the rail to seem like it was pressurized. Then I start the car, runs for a min or so get rough then die out. I pick up a fuel pump at the junk yard to test my theory that maybe the fuel pump was on its way out but pressuring the fuel system enough to screw with me.

[misha]

There is fuel at fuel rail when problem occur and it's under pressure....so it isn't fuel pump.

[valvolvo70]

UPDATE:
Removed purge/EVAP valve and could blow right through it, should be closed. Found a post here on "how to clean EVAP" and sprayed throttle body cleaner until all the black gunk stopped running out each end. Some recommended taking the valve apart, I didn't. Blew through the valve again, it was closed, reassembled valve. Tried to start several times and it only turned over. On the final try there's a loud POP (fire cracker) and smoke billowing from behind/below the engine block, looked like a magic trick in my garage. Oil (spray) was forced from under the oil cap onto the plugs, and after removing the cap, there was smoke inside the block. First thought was I didn't wait long enough for the TB cleaner to evaporate before starting? or......its toast.

I haven't tried to start it again until I here recommendations as to the next steps, if any.

[misha]

It's carb cleaner...engine backfired.
That purge valve can't be cleaned....it's electro valve....it's working or not.
Remove the vacuum line from valve which goes to intake manifold and plug the manifold port.
Try to start the car and see what happens.

One more thing....purge valve can't be opened for cleaning.
There is no way to open it unless you cut it open.

[abscate]

When you get the no start , try the ether test and report back

You have to measure the fuel pressure at the rail. It has to be right on these cars, you can’t just push the valve and see a spritz and move on, especially when the problem is intermittent.

You can try jumping the fuel relay with a wire, but this is guessing , not diagnosing.

Let’s also see a picture of the inside of your distributor cap and the rotor close up so we can scold you there too.

( typed on an )

[bmdubya1198]

Agreed, it's a good idea to check the actual fuel pressure. Get a cheap fuel pressure tester kit from Harbor Freight for like $20... they work just fine.

Now I've only scanned through this thread, but it sounds like you've confirmed the timing is correct, you at least have some fuel, but do you have spark and compression? I assume you have spark since you say it backfired, but how's the condition of the cap and rotor?
+1 on ether... if it starts on ether, it's definitely a fuel issue. Try that.

And I missed it before, but do you have any DTCs?

[misha]

Just Evap codes for years...but now...we confirmed that purge valve was stuck open.
It normaly must be closed at rest untill ecu ask for it.
I'm waiting for results after the advice i have him.

[valvolvo70]

It's carb cleaner...engine backfired.
That purge valve can't be cleaned....it's electro valve....it's working or not.
Remove the vacuum line from valve which goes to intake manifold and plug the manifold port.
Try to start the car and see what happens.

One more thing....purge valve can't be opened for cleaning.
There is no way to open it unless you cut it open.

I found this on MVS. I have the same purge valve PN as the post. Cleaner did work for me though.
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