2001 S60 Advice Needed for one of our Healthcare Heros, Illinois TBD

MsVonB · Post by **MsVonB** » 10 Apr 2020, 10:16

Need some advice as I’m single female nurse working crazy hours also caring for parents, my father just had lung cancer removed and is in ICU. Started my Volvo couple days ago & no power to stereo, dashboard lights very dimmed, then as I continued driving all went back to working. This happened couple of times, now the check engine light comes on but goes off after couple minutes of driving. Took car to independent shop that I have always trusted, however regular guys who always work the counter aren’t there, General Manager is answering phone & I’ve never seen him in all the times I’ve been there! Due to COVID-19 the shop will let you drop car off but nobody’s allowed to enter lobby. Received call back from the GM who then handed phone to mechanic (who has always been straight forward with me & tries to help save me money) he then told me my variable valve timing solenoid needs replacing along with fuel to air ratio sensor costing approximately $1,200 before tax, etc. I told him I need to think about it & maybe I should just buy new car. 30 minutes later the GM called me again & said he heard I might not be going through with the service & if buying something else then he would be very interested in buying my Volvo. I’m not sure why he would want my car when it’s 20 yrs old, 145,000 miles & salvaged title?? Anyone have any advice because I don’t know what to do now!!!

ionianp2 · Post by **ionianp2** » 10 Apr 2020, 10:34

It sounds like the mechanic could fix it for way less than they are quoting (or the problem could be different altogether) and that is why he could be interested in it.

Would it be possible to take it to another trusted mechanic? Or at minimum an AutoZone to do a reading of trouble codes?

Plus from what they are telling you it doesn't sound to be the sole cause of the symptoms you are experiencing (my personal opinion).

MsVonB · Post by **MsVonB** » 10 Apr 2020, 10:40

Thank you for responding & that’s kinda what I was thinking too. I don’t have any other trusted ones I know but could run it by Autozone to see what codes they can pull.

ionianp2 · Post by **ionianp2** » 10 Apr 2020, 12:34

Plus from the symptoms you describe it sounds more like a power system (charging or battery) related. The trouble codes would provide better insight.

Post by **oragex** » 10 Apr 2020, 13:33

MsVonB wrote: ↑10 Apr 2020, 10:16 30 minutes later the GM called me again & said he heard I might not be going through with the service & if buying something else then he would be very interested in buying my Volvo. I’m not sure why he would want my car when it’s 20 yrs old, 145,000 miles & salvaged title?? Anyone have any advice because I don’t know what to do now!!!

This is the textbook of a typical garage scam. Owner brings in a car with a small fault, garage tells it's a costly repair, not worth, and offers to buy the car for a cheap price. Then fixes the problem for 2-$300 and sells for several thousands profit.

Just the fact they offered to buy the car means it's a cheap fix and they are making profit - they will probably offer you near $500-$1000 or so and sell for 3-$4000

As for the problem with dim dash lights, possible the battery is bad - I'm not saying it's this, but it would be the first thing to check. Of course, at another place, or you can yourself buy a $20 multimeter, undo the positive post inside the trunk (10mm wrench), let sit 1h (may just lower the trunk without closing it if parked on the street, then measure at both posts - polarity doesn't matter. You should see at least 12.3v, preferably more. You can also measure the alternator with the engine running, again at the battery posts, you should see from 13.5v-14.5v. Before replacing the battery, look closely and shake a little all power cables at the battery and at the starter (with the engine off), try to feel for any broken place inside the cable jacket. There is another red power cable under a small cover just above the ABS unit at the left of the engine

For the Check Engine light, it could be several things. I don't think it's the front or rear Oxygen sensor (the "fuel to air ratio sensor") because these will put a permanent Check Engine light. Try rather to see if the engine has a small shake - a misfire. It looks like this, if you can hear, the engine is also making a repeated 'drum' noise www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDwtZCWU7u8

I also suggest look at the timing belt if it was never replaced www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zbkJYkLxCA

ionianp2 · Post by **ionianp2** » 10 Apr 2020, 13:38

That's a good point made by Oragex. Also, you could ask them to do a quick battery reading at the AutoZone or similar place when looking at trouble codes.

As a general rule batteries can start going bad after 4-5 years, especially aftermarket ones.

ADent · Post by **ADent** » 10 Apr 2020, 18:37

What goes on and off?

I had a bad ignition switch. The radio would come on like 5-30 sec after starting the car (longer when colder). Then the ECC. Then the headlights, dash lights, heated seats, wipers, etc would flicker together with relays clicking and eventually come on for good.

The trick is there is load shedding relay (actually two) to turn all that stuff off when you turn the key to start. The ignition switch goes bad. The relays occasionally. Could be a million other things though.

The ignition switch is $65 online for a OEM part and I could install it again in 10 minutes.

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I would get a voltmeter and keep an eye on voltages - the car is not happy with low voltages. I did a new battery along the way. I keep an eye on voltage with a cigarette volt meter, esp if the car is not driven much. The cig lighter volt meter are $10-$15 on Amazon.

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The VVT solenoid is bad on my car (or at least throwing a code). I just bought one - they are about $180 new online (OEM) - cheap used. (I grabbed a new(ish) one for $120 on eBay). Looks easy to do, but I haven't done it yet. The car runs fine with it not working - maybe down a smidgen on power.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 10 Apr 2020, 19:05

Any MVS member in Illinois who may be able to check out her car?
volvolugnut

Post by **abscate** » 10 Apr 2020, 20:31

Escalated title to get help from Illinois area.

Can you narrow your location down by zip so we can get one of our gurus to help?

That solenoid has nothing to do with an electrical problem as described.

Post by **darrylrobert** » 11 Apr 2020, 02:48

Sounds like alternator charging problem to me, does the car have starting issues? I would find another mechanic, that one is very dodgy. Its not the vvt solenoid, the symptoms are poor milage.

An easy thing to try is with the engine running turn on the headlights and as many things as you can, if you get a 'discharge warning' or lights go dim you likely have a poorly opating alternator (charger) the fix is easy but involves removal of the unit and a new regulator installed.