2002 v70 xc transmission problems
2002 v70 xc transmission problems
Recently purchased this vehicle with 85,000 on it. Now a month later I'm starting to notice some transmission problems. At first I noticed a hard down shift to 1st after it was warmed up now I have had it happen twice both on warmer days 80°f and after the vehicle has been driven for a while 30 plus mins. It starts to shift up and down very hard and has a lag shift from 2 to 3 not slipping as rpms dont go up but takes a long time to shift and when it does it bangs into 3rd. The second time it happened it went into a limp mode and said transmission service required on the message screen but no lights. Hooked up a scan tool I have and it gave a generic 0700 mil trans code. Was able to clear and it drove fine. Both times it happened I was in stop and go traffic light traffic and after I was able to drive it for a bit at highway speed it seemed to shift and preform much better. Took it to a volvo specialist shop the other day and they drove it around and said it was fine and to drive it till the code comes back then take it to a transmission shop up the road from them. They also said that the b4 cover may need replacing but weren't sure if it would fix the problem. He seemed to think valve body and or rebuild of the trans. After reading on here a bit I'm so confused. It is definitely ambient temp and stop and go related. Any veterans opinions would be greatly appreciated try to decide if I should dump it and find another one or if it may be a simple fix dont really have the 3 to 5 grand they gave me as a rough est for repairs
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darrylrobert
- Posts: 472
- Joined: 6 March 2020
- Year and Model: 2001 v70xc M58
- Location: australia
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You can try changing the fluid. I changed the fluid on my M58 box with Redline and it shifts like new. I have a junked 2002 XC70 with the auto boc here in Australia if your interested.
1981 260 GLE converted to 240 M46 after auto box failure
1987 740t auto converted to M47
1997 V70t5 auto converted to M56
1998 V70 factory M56 (parts car)
2001 XC70 factory M58
2002 XC70 auto (parts car)
1987 740t auto converted to M47
1997 V70t5 auto converted to M56
1998 V70 factory M56 (parts car)
2001 XC70 factory M58
2002 XC70 auto (parts car)
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oragex
- Posts: 5347
- Joined: 24 May 2013
- Year and Model: S60 2003
- Location: Canada
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You will not get a 100% sure answer. These have problems as the fluid warms up, which happens mostly in warm summer days. A fluid change may be a good idea to start with because old fluid is loosing its properties as it warms up. Also check the radiator fan is working properly in stop and go traffic (the transmission fluid has a cooler at the radiator and has to be cooled down by the fan as well). You may try cheaper things to start with and if it doesn't work, may need to take a decision
In order, I would try as mentioned above a fluid change but you need to be careful. Ideally would be to drain the sump several times and refill with same amount, the sump has a large bolt, ask which size, then refill is done only by the dipstick - read a bit on forums. We need to use the correct fluid, I recommend https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -1161540kt 4 bottles are good for one drain. Next I would try to replace the B4 servo cover for the shifting into the 3rd gear delay. Also ask the place to remove the Neutral stop from the software. In fact if that specialist was a real one, he should had already done this software update. I would also recommend - you won't hear this elsewhere - to install a used MAF sensor to see if it changes anything - one used from Ebay or from a junkyard. A used one, new is too expensive just for a try. From there, you have the option to replace the valve body - the problem is to find a good trusted unit for your model year because all had problems. I don't recommend replacing the whole transmission because used ones all have the problem, and 'rebuild' ones are often times misrepresented.
In order, I would try as mentioned above a fluid change but you need to be careful. Ideally would be to drain the sump several times and refill with same amount, the sump has a large bolt, ask which size, then refill is done only by the dipstick - read a bit on forums. We need to use the correct fluid, I recommend https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -1161540kt 4 bottles are good for one drain. Next I would try to replace the B4 servo cover for the shifting into the 3rd gear delay. Also ask the place to remove the Neutral stop from the software. In fact if that specialist was a real one, he should had already done this software update. I would also recommend - you won't hear this elsewhere - to install a used MAF sensor to see if it changes anything - one used from Ebay or from a junkyard. A used one, new is too expensive just for a try. From there, you have the option to replace the valve body - the problem is to find a good trusted unit for your model year because all had problems. I don't recommend replacing the whole transmission because used ones all have the problem, and 'rebuild' ones are often times misrepresented.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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SuperHerman
- Posts: 1798
- Joined: 1 December 2014
- Year and Model: 2004 & 2016 XC90
- Location: Minnesota
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You most likely have dirty fluid. As mentioned above it really is hard to tell, but dirty fluid will do what you describe. Did you check it, is it at the right level and is it black? Problem is the prior owner may have had issues and tried already so this is not definitive unless it is low and/or black.
Do a drain and fill with Toyota Type IV (or pick your flavor) - add 1/2 a can of SeaFoam TransTune and drive for 1000 miles or so. Then do another drain and fill and use the rest of the can - then another maybe 10-15k later. Other option is to use the entire can per SeaFoam directions during your first drain and fill then do another one in 500-1000 miles.
I have used Valvoline Maxlife on three Volvos without issue, but others on the forum don't like it. It is cheap, easy to find and in my opinion worth doing at least during your cleaning phase. You can always do a full flush and put in your preferred flavor of tranny fluid. But when running a cleaning solvent through I find it cost effective. The way I see it if the tranny is toast why waste good money on the perfect fluid. Either approach is acceptable.
Two things - the 2002 is suppose to have updated solenoids, but based on forum reports some users are finding gen 1 valve bodies in their cars - I assume these also have the older solenoids, but don't know this for fact. Second, the SeaFoam TransTune treatment has worked for several forum members, but it is not 100%. It adds $8.00 so why not.
Many times if the problem is sticky solenoids a drain fill and SeaFoam treatment works, but if the filters are plugged up (which it doesn't sound like) it won't work. Also - many have had success just doing three drain and fills and letting the fluid do its work. It really depends on how many times you want to get under the car as well as how long you can tolerate the issue while the clean fluid does its work.
Basically clean fluid is washing away the gunk - a solvent should help here. Dirty and old fluid is never as good as clean fresh fluid. Driving 1000 miles on the highway is not the same as driving a true city/highway mix as the solenoids need to be worked.
Do a drain and fill with Toyota Type IV (or pick your flavor) - add 1/2 a can of SeaFoam TransTune and drive for 1000 miles or so. Then do another drain and fill and use the rest of the can - then another maybe 10-15k later. Other option is to use the entire can per SeaFoam directions during your first drain and fill then do another one in 500-1000 miles.
I have used Valvoline Maxlife on three Volvos without issue, but others on the forum don't like it. It is cheap, easy to find and in my opinion worth doing at least during your cleaning phase. You can always do a full flush and put in your preferred flavor of tranny fluid. But when running a cleaning solvent through I find it cost effective. The way I see it if the tranny is toast why waste good money on the perfect fluid. Either approach is acceptable.
Two things - the 2002 is suppose to have updated solenoids, but based on forum reports some users are finding gen 1 valve bodies in their cars - I assume these also have the older solenoids, but don't know this for fact. Second, the SeaFoam TransTune treatment has worked for several forum members, but it is not 100%. It adds $8.00 so why not.
Many times if the problem is sticky solenoids a drain fill and SeaFoam treatment works, but if the filters are plugged up (which it doesn't sound like) it won't work. Also - many have had success just doing three drain and fills and letting the fluid do its work. It really depends on how many times you want to get under the car as well as how long you can tolerate the issue while the clean fluid does its work.
Basically clean fluid is washing away the gunk - a solvent should help here. Dirty and old fluid is never as good as clean fresh fluid. Driving 1000 miles on the highway is not the same as driving a true city/highway mix as the solenoids need to be worked.
Thanks guys I checked the fluid level yesterday and it was overfilled. I also picked up the supplies and did a drain and fill on it yesterday evening. Took it out for a drive and things seem better right now. Gonna drive it today and do another drain and fill this evening I'll put close to 200 miles on it today. I appreciate all the advice.
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