Leaking cam seals and exhaust VVT

[sprocket007]

Hey Kids
Thanks for all of your info
The car started fine no engine pile up
I still don't know what the tapping sound was when I was turning it over by hand but nothing was catastrophic on start up!
My timing marks looked close to dead on with my timing belt set up... your feed back on here gave me the confidence to proceed with starting this puppy up!

Pete, I checked the rods as you stated... I discovered that # 5 rod did have some vertical play, I'm at a crossroads with this... does one do all the rod bearings? Then what? Crank bearings? I have do deal with the fact that I had a massive oil leak and I had to make a decision to drive this beast home and in doing so, one cannot expect not to do some damage running a rotating engine low on lubrication several times as a result of the massive cam seal leak

so for now i'm dealing with the play in rod # 5 , maybe i'll rebuild a engine in the future, maybe this will run decently for a while..?

At this point things are OK but on about every 5th start up I do get a ECM 644A cam shaft control-faulty position
WTF?
Why on every 5th start up?? Why not every start up? What the elf!??
Any insight on this??

Perhaps, the VVT hub is actually bad?? What causes a the VVT hub to need to be replaced, it is not electronic, it is mechanical...
I question this because I don't really think my timing marks were off... or were they?
sooo, then can I rotate the bolts on the exhaust VVT hub to make this code (but which way?) Poof... disappear..?

I know, lots of questions

Thanks,
W

[abscate]

Codes are software driven, and many of them are only set after a condition is detected a certain number of times after a certain number of cycles. It’s not like the sensors send a go/ no signal to the ECM.

On tha rod/ crank bearing. If you drive this gentlyyou may get 10-50k miles out of that bearing while it is loose. Everything on this engine is high quality and will withstand some punishment. The knocking will tell you before it let’s go and ruins the block. If the car can find duty as an around town, gently driven commuter that will help.

It might help to keep with a slightly heavier oil like 10w-40 synthetic.

[- Pete -]

That’s a tough call. I guess one way to look at it is you know which cylinder is going to produce a knock first. Once a knock is audible & detected by the knock sensor it’s only a matter of time, and probably not a whole lot of it.

If it was mine & I had just spent all the time & money you have to get where you are, I would probably suck it up and get 1 set of shells and put them in. $38-48 bucks for one set. The only way you will get less life out of it than the shape it’s currently in is if you get the new shells in there and put the rod cap on backwards.

Also, if your #5 rod bearing has worn minimally & hasn’t scuffed up the crank journal you should be just fine with a new set of bearing shells on that cylinder. The crank journal is what is important and will determine if you need to tear the engine down.

Did you take the rod cap off? I know it sucks taking the oil pan off, but another good way to measure the integrity of the other rod bearings is to do the plastigauge test like Jimmy57 had me do.

[abscate]

Remember to match mark those rod caps as they must be matched when they are torqued, or they get destroyed

[sprocket007]

Pete
I believe your advise is practical and logical, I’ve fixed things up to this point.
I guess I was just sick of dealing with this car.
It’s not like this is a huge job, I’m gonna drop the pan again and and do the rod bearing. It’s the smart thing to do!
Thanks,
W

[xHeart]

Pete
I believe your advise is practical and logical, I’ve fixed things up to this point.
I guess I was just sick of dealing with this car.
It’s not like this is a huge job, I’m gonna drop the pan again and and do the rod bearing. It’s the smart thing to do!
Thanks,
W

I'd too.

This may help https://parts.volvocarslisle.com/a/Volv ... 82000.html