New to Volvo

[Caraholic]

Hi guys new to the Volvo community I picked up 2003 S60 it was a flood car so i got it for only $300 couldn't pass that up for a car that sill run and drive. So far the bad is the factory alarm module, the sunroof, PCV system, front and rear struts and the radio changes station whenever it wants. The body and paint is in very good condition the interior can use some love but nothing crazy. So of course after a little looking around the internet for more about Volvo's I found out these cars come with turbos in some models and I had to get one without just my luck LOL. So now to the questions 1. what are the differences between the turbo and non-turbo besides the obvious 2. if theres no major differences between the two can I just the factory turbo setup and just swap to the turbo ECU 3. what power upgrades are out there for the non turbo 4. what is a good suspension to go with ($1000-$1500 Range) 5. what are some common failures with volvo I should be looking out for. Thanks in advance

[abscate]

For a2003 the best way to a turbo upgrade us part out the NA car and buy the one you want

The ECU on a 1999- on Volvo is pinned to the chassis by VIN number so the swap cost you software and cloning fees.

You will have nothing left of $3000 by the time you do a turbo conversion, .my estimate

[Caraholic]

For a2003 the best way to a turbo upgrade us part out the NA car and buy the one you want

The ECU on a 1999- on Volvo is pinned to the chassis by VIN number so the swap cost you software and cloning fees.

You will have nothing left of $3000 by the time you do a turbo conversion, .my estimate

Ok that kills that idea

[E Showell]

I've run both turbo and non turbo P2 (the platform you have) Volvos. The non turbos have a lot to offer in terms of reduced complexity, i.e., fewer parts to break/service, lack of need to use full synthetic oil and premium gas.

I've never felt the NA cars were inadequate. You'll love the seats. It won't snap your neck off the line, but so what?

Enjoy. The next one can be a turbo.

[SuperHerman]

I agree with E Showell - I had a 2002 S60 non-turbo and it was a great car.

[E Showell]

For front suspension components, I'd go with Lemforder lower control arms, and I'd use only genuine Volvo sway bar end links. You may need ball joints as well. I don't recall the OE supplier there. Front struts I've not had to change yet on a P2 platform, but Sachs are OEM on the P80 platform and perform fine. PCV components can be sourced from fcpeuro.com. If you buy your replacement parts from FCP, they come with a lifetime replacement warranty. They are a popular supplier on this site for that reason.

The PCV repair can be a bit finicky. For what you paid for the car, I'd let an experienced independent Volvo mechanic handle. The banjo bolts on the PCV hose are a ginormous PITA and if you aren't careful, you can snap the thin, brittle plastic line inside one of the rubber hose casings.

In the meantime, run with dipstick not fully seated to vent some excess crankcase pressure. If the PCV overpressure is not vented/repaired asap, you can blow crank/cam seals and end up with big oil leaks and expensive repairs (like rear main seal replacement).

[Georgeandkira]

How many miles are on your flooded $300 '03?

One good feature of the non-turbo is the ease with with you can remove the ETM should that become necessary.
The turbocharged versions' ETM is buried within and below the intake manifold.
Just to complete the thought, the early design ETMs wear in a manner which results in the engine rpm hunting rather abruptly. It too is "numerically assigned" to the car so having your ETM rebuilt is the way to go.

A notion on oil if I may. The non-turbocharged engines can use conventional oil but I would not. I'm not alone.
While oils are better than they used to be and many eschew the "fancy synthetics" as excessive or unnessessary, you gotta trust the oil freaks who say waxes and other lowly crud is refined out of synthetics.
It's that crud which is first to become sludgy deposits.

Given the horrors which follow the clogging of a PCV system, I can't see saving the pennies by buying conventional oil for these modern cars. Group 3 (most basic) synthetics go on sale all the time and really do cost just a bit more.

If you run this beast I suggest using either Mobil1 0W-40 European Formula or Castrol 0W-30 European Formula as either is readily available. There are many oils from which to choose. And of course you can stay with the 5W-30 spec.

My car was originally owned by a family in Washington, D.C. While the car was well cared for at a dealership, I have no receipt with the word "synthetic" on it. Too bad.
Also, it may be a moot point as my P2, a 2007, just turned 104K, has no crankcase pressure woes but the glove doesn't suck in either.
People I trust say to replace the PCV system at 100K.

IMPORTANT: Use only the 3 prong Volvo plug for your non-turbo. Volvo part # 8642660.
Avoid headaches. Use any aftermarket plugs in turbocharged cars.

Also, if you find yourself driving this car, consider doing a transmission drain and fill. 4 quarts of CORRECT FLUID covers it and if you see the fluid is filthy and vile, you can establish your course of action be it additional D&Fs or doing a pump out.

[E Showell]

Just to avoid misunderstanding, I wasn't recommending conventional oil use. Even in NAs I run a semi-synthetic like Mobil 1 at a minimum. I was merely suggesting you didn't need to run, e.g., Redline, a true full synthetic.

Notwithstanding it's advertising claims to the contrary and no apparent legally-recognized criteria for referring to a motor oil as "full synthetic," several sources appear to suggest Mobil 1 is not in fact "full synthetic" as the lay person might understand the term -- i. e., made in the lab versus pumped from the ground.

[chrism]

One good feature of the non-turbo is the ease with with you can remove the ETM should that become necessary.
The turbocharged versions' ETM is buried within and below the intake manifold.
Just to complete the thought, the early design ETMs wear in a manner which results in the engine rpm hunting rather abruptly. It too is "numerically assigned" to the car so having your ETM rebuilt is the way to go.

Being a 2003, it “should” have a Bosch throttle which would be plug and play with no coding.

[vtl]

I've had N/A 02 V70, it was awesome! B5244S engine is indestructible, with the proper oil changes it will run beyond 0.5M miles with only valve stem seals replaced.