New Head gasket or new motor? 2005 Volvo S60R

humanatek · Post by **humanatek** » 17 Mar 2020, 15:51

I"m a long time SILENT LURKER on this site, but have finally reached a matter where I could really use the community's collective GENIUS and INSIGHTS:

So my brother's 2005 Volvo S60R sedan, 6spd manual, seems to have a minor head gasket leak. It smokes white. We thought he'd blown the turbo, since we thought we'd seen a little "blue" in the smoke, but the mechanic is saying we have a "little water" in the cylinders... and that the head is blown...

WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK??? Should we just do the headgaskets and inspect the bottom end while I'm in there, or just replace the entire motor with a used one?

Thoughts? Prior experiences? Any input or resources would be appreciated.
UPDATE: The mechanic has offered to install a salvaged motor for $2350.00 USD labor. If I source my own motor. Sighhhhhhhhhhh?

Post by **BlackBart** » 17 Mar 2020, 19:08

I only jump in because I happened by early, I put my P2 head back on with a new used cam, and I replaced what I thought was a good Audi engine with used not too ago. Replacing was a pretty big job time-wise. Others here will have way more direct experience for you.

My questions would be:

How many miles on the car?
A used R engine? (not just some turbo motor)
Same year and harness / modules as his?
Less miles or more? (I put the exact 130k Audi engine in, but rebuilt all the systems and accessories)
Do you know what caused it yet?
Is there any damage to the bottom end, or just a leaking head gasket?

My gut would be rebuild the head and put it on, checking it for flatness carefully. Depends on the cost vs a good used motor. Would it be a wash to go either way? The mechanic would do the head replacement as well, not you guys?

My vote is do the head.

humanatek · Post by **humanatek** » 17 Mar 2020, 19:40

Thanks for your reply... I saw a motor, an R motor, for sale at 1200 USD, I could DIY it myself, as I've rebuilt Alfa motors before, which have got to have served as some PAIN TEST for this kinda project yes? Otherwise, I would rather redo my head gasket myself, I'd rather, replace the gasket, making sure it's replaned to an anal flat level, maybe even get the head machined and air flowed, along with a new turbo? It's now about cost. The motor being offered is just under 100K miles... so hopfully I"d have at least 30k troublefree miles...

Post by **vtl** » 17 Mar 2020, 21:00

Given it's R, new gasket won't help. Need another engine.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 17 Mar 2020, 21:01

I would take the head to a machinist rather then a mechanic and have the machinist check the head out before making a decision.

I have a 2004 S60R I got last week as a $500 mechanics special. Antifreeze in the crankcase, multiple cylinders and the charged air pipe. The above is what I am going to do. Unless I find a cracked cylinder wall.

If it is decided a new engine is the way to go:

The B5244T5 (2.4L) out of the 2005–2009 S60 T5 and 2005 - 2007 V70 II T5 is the exact same engine as the B5254T4 (2.5L) in that 2005 S60R. With the exception of the cylinder bore 81 mm vs 83mm and the fuel injectors.

Just transfer the injectors and R covers and drop in the B5244T5. You maybe able to find a better deal on a B5244T5 because it associated with the T5 badge rather then the R badge and there are more B5244T5 then there are B5254T4.

Another option is to find a short block with a stroke of 93.2 mm and transfer the head from the B5254T4. There are a lot of short blocks that will work.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 17 Mar 2020, 21:04

vtl wrote: ↑17 Mar 2020, 21:00 Given it's R, new gasket won't help.

What does it being a R engine have to do with it?

Post by **vtl** » 17 Mar 2020, 21:06

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑17 Mar 2020, 21:04 What does it being a R engine have to do with it?

Much more prone to cracked sleeves.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 17 Mar 2020, 21:12

vtl wrote: ↑17 Mar 2020, 21:06 Much more prone to cracked sleeves.

Just toss it because it is more prone? That would be a unnecessary waste time and money.

Post by **vtl** » 17 Mar 2020, 21:18

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑17 Mar 2020, 21:12 Just toss it because it is more prone? That would be a unnecessary waste time and money.

What would you do with a cracked cylinder sleeve?

Post by **- Pete -** » 17 Mar 2020, 22:07

If the block is salvageable you’re looking at $900-1k just for sleeves (aka Darton’s - that’s sleeves alone, extra bucks will be machining the block etc). But that’s just the tip of the iceberg. If it’s a cracked sleeve.

This is a painful discovery & has been documented even on R’s making stock power. I truly hope it is not the case for you & your bother.

On mine, I’m taking every measure I can to avoid a cracked sleeve - maximize cooling & good tuning. Larger radiator, bigger Intercooler, bigger oil cooler, & a properly designed tune to tie it together. Oh, and driving conservatively!