Front Strut replacement recommendations and gotchas? Topic is solved

[ndphotonl]

Everyone has different budgets & different wishes.

Choose something you are comfortable with, which also fits within budget. When I did the overhaul, I bought new Bilstein B4 shocks all around and Vogtland lowering springs. I am a little bit dissappointed in the lowering part, but the springs are good value for money regarding build quality & quality of the ride.

Volvo S80 2.4T Lowering Preparations by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr

Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing Rear Shocks Bilstein B4 by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr

Volvo S80 2.4T Lowering Preparations Done! by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr

[GlennG2759]

I would also add no matter what strut route you take, wrap the outer cv axle boot in cardboard during installation, it can get torn very easily. Good Luck.

[MoVolvos]

1A Auto is another place for reference in terms of parts. They also have excellent customer service and most parts have a Lifetime warranty.
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https://www.1aauto.com/volvo-s60-s80-v7 ... 540&y=2002

I LITERALLY was getting ready to ask about 1AAuto....interestingly, they have this kit for $3 less, but it appears to contain sway bar end links....

https://www.1aauto.com/volvo-s60-s80-v7 ... 494&y=2002

Considering the age and mileage of my car, I'm trying to justify $600 when I can spend less than half that....

Anyone know any reason why I shouldn't go with 1AAuto?

Thanks,

Jonboy

Both are TRQ's and look identical but have different parts number. Perhaps the number is for the complete kit? Decent deal for Lifetime.
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[abscate]

Take a look at your end links , in sunny NC you like;y won’t need a grinder for those bolts. Hit them with PB Blaster a week before,and then impact them off.

The other cheap option here is to put on fresh springs by hauling off your assemblies and taking them to a shop for a one hour swap over of your parts.

That way you get the best parts but don’t have to buy and fool with the compressor

The problem with any kits is that they usually come with junk for the strut bearings and rubber above the strut, so you pay for those parts twice.

OEM Volvo has been shown the only one to last here. By 'last' I mean longer than 6 months

[xHeart]

Everyone has different budgets & different wishes.
Choose something you are comfortable with, which also fits within budget. When I did the overhaul, I bought new Bilstein B4 shocks all around and Vogtland lowering springs. I am a little bit dissappointed in the lowering part, but the springs are good value for money regarding build quality & quality of the ride.

Any before and after lowering pix?

[Jonboy74]

Take a look at your end links , in sunny NC you like;y won’t need a grinder for those bolts. Hit them with PB Blaster a week before,and then impact them off.

I actually replaced the sway bar end links myself about 2 years ago. it was around the time I replaced the rear shocks. I had this grand idea that I would get to the struts sooner....LOL....and here we are....

The other cheap option here is to put on fresh springs by hauling off your assemblies and taking them to a shop for a one hour swap over of your parts.

That way you get the best parts but don’t have to buy and fool with the compressor

The problem with any kits is that they usually come with junk for the strut bearings and rubber above the strut, so you pay for those parts twice.

OEM Volvo has been shown the only one to last here. By 'last' I mean longer than 6 months

Well crap. I really don't want to do this twice.

Ok, so am I hearing that you would recommend I get new springs and just take everything to a shop to put them together for me, or re-use my existing springs? I'm not quite following on that piece.

Can you help me out with the parts? I have a hard time spending over $600 on a kit from FCP Euro when I can get a kit from 1AAuto for less than half...but like I said, I don't want to revisit this, and I'd rather not deal with the Spring Compressor myself....

Here's what I'm looking at so far....I'm sure I am missing something...

Struts: https://www.1aauto.com/volvo-s60-s80-v7 ... 546&y=2002 OR two of these for roughly $100 more https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 46#fitment

Boots: https://www.1aauto.com/strut-boot-and-b ... 975&y=2002

Spring Seats: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 0-s80-xc70

Strut Mounts: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... r-30714968

Lock Nut Kit for Strut Mounts: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... t-948645x3

Coil Springs: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 80-9492226

Thanks,

Jonboy

[Georgeandkira]

SUGGESTION:
This can work economically only if you have tires in service which are "squarely worn" (worn evenly across).
Do your struts and just be careful when tightening the lower 2 bolts. Take pictures and be visual. Then DON'T get an alignment.
See how your old tires wear. I repeat, I'm 4 for 4 in hitting the proper configuration.

I'm not "anti-alignment" or even that cheap a skate. Why not let two old front tires take whatever hit?
I'd think anyone's better off getting an alignment with 2 new front tires anyway.
The point earlier mentioned about being aware of your bushings' condition is a sound one.
Our soft riding bushings are expected to wear / collapse / tear.
If your control arm bushings are shot you have the option to rebush them or simply replace the complete arm. Either option is affordable and is accomplished without fiddling further with the struts.
The poly bushings I had pressed into my control arms remains the BEST thing I ever did to a car.

This only applies if your sporting older tires. Got new, good (even premium) tires?
Fine, get an alignment when you're finished. Just don't expect miracles if your car has shot bushings.

EXPERIENCE:
I'd have no problem ordering anything from 1AAuto but the above mentioned guarantee and FCP's track record of great service (just like eEuroparts too) might take the day.

You did mention affordability and/or price relevant to the value of your car.
Using the spring compressors to swap in a strut is how you can save some money or, for more money, give you the shot at being adventurous with your selection of strut cartridge.

ANECDOTE:
When I installed the Sachs SuperTourings into my 2002 I swear there was no discernible difference. I wish I had selected Bilstein H4 (or is it B4-I forget).
I installed Bilstein B6 (or was it H6) Heavy Duty in a Saab wagon and the ride was a religious experience.
The Bilstein H6's are going into my V70.
Those honeys are a tad more expensive.

Such options are not available with Quick Struts. Also, sorry to say, there are blanket warnings out there claiming that all ready made struts are inferior. It shouldn't be that way nor am I saying it is.
Call FCP and 1A and ask 'em.

ODD MENTION:
The bearing plates of my '02 were all but rust free at 162K. There was a thumb print of rust on one of them....and the car lived it's life outside in New Jersey!

[MoVolvos]

The poly bushings I had pressed into my control arms remains the BEST thing I ever did to a car.

Glad you shared!
How long in use?
No squeaks?
Which brand?
How about the LCA rear bushing?

I may be changing the bushings on the 03 S80 T6. Thanks.

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[Fataqui]

I had those 1A on 04 V70 and the response on the coils were just plain awful. What I mean, when I hit even a slight dipping type bump, the coil was not strong enough to push the wheel assembly down fast enough so the car would almost feel like it was bottoming out, and it always felt that way on every little dang bump. Anyway... I got a friend that has a spring/coil shop in my town and we compared the coils on those readi-made A!(s) to new volvo coils, and the original volvo coils with 240Kmi on them and those old volvo coil still had 380lbs more of "coil return response" than the brand new A1 coils, and those same old volvo coils only lost roughly 80lbs in "coil return response" compared to brand new volvo coils, which are Suplex coils, but if you buy the cheaper Lesjofors coils, a unbranded Suplex will be in those boxes. Other than that, I always find when it comes to struts and coils, especially on volvos its best to pick individual parts and build them yourself, cause that way you can save lots of money while putting a better strut and coil assemble on your car, which all those readi-made setups won't provide!

[Jonboy74]

I had those 1A on 04 V70 and the response on the coils were just plain awful. What I mean, when I hit even a slight dipping type bump, the coil was not strong enough to push the wheel assembly down fast enough so the car would almost feel like it was bottoming out, and it always felt that way on every little dang bump. Anyway... I got a friend that has a spring/coil shop in my town and we compared the coils on those readi-made A!(s) to new volvo coils, and the original volvo coils with 240Kmi on them and those old volvo coil still had 380lbs more of "coil return response" than the brand new A1 coils, and those same old volvo coils only lost roughly 80lbs in "coil return response" compared to brand new volvo coils, which are Suplex coils, but if you buy the cheaper Lesjofors coils, a unbranded Suplex will be in those boxes. Other than that, I always find when it comes to struts and coils, especially on volvos its best to pick individual parts and build them yourself, cause that way you can save lots of money while putting a better strut and coil assemble on your car, which all those readi-made setups won't provide!

*sigh* I kinda wish I had read this about 30 minutes ago, because I just went ahead and placed the order with 1AA. I went back and forth and honestly the car is maybe worth $2,500 (kbb private party), and so I decided that just about anything will be better than the worn out struts that are in there now...

So, we'll see...

Once I get them in, I'll report back...

Thanks,

Jonboy