Belt fail timing jump

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 22 May 2020, 07:15

brushhippie wrote: ↑22 May 2020, 06:37 I have since read somebody broke the crank stop trying to do that..that would not do..maybe something more significant in the crank stop hole...

The correct counterhold tool is Volvo 9995433. About $40.00 on eBay. You can take two of the smaller bolts out replace them longer high grade bolts, wedge a pry bar between them as a counter hold.

Long soaking the center nut with Liquid Wrench will help.

brushhippie · Post by **brushhippie** » 24 May 2020, 12:45

Thanks for the heads up on the tool RHP..fashioned me one and got the dang thing off finally..prolly took a bit over an hour to build it so I saved some money! I used the bolts that came out to bolt the tool in place..it was already close to TDC so I welded the arm off to the side (over the drive axle) so I could put a jack stand under it..a bit of heat and off it came. Now to get the alignment tools in place and re-assemble.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 24 May 2020, 15:55

brushhippie wrote: ↑24 May 2020, 12:45 Thanks for the heads up on the tool RHP..fashioned me one and got the dang thing off finally..prolly took a bit over an hour to build it so I saved some money! I used the bolts that came out to bolt the tool in place..it was already close to TDC so I welded the arm off to the side (over the drive axle) so I could put a jack stand under it..a bit of heat and off it came. Now to get the alignment tools in place and re-assemble.

Oh a Tool Fabricator.

$40.00 saved by 1 hour of labor is equivalent to ~ $50.00 per hour pre-tax gross. Cannot complain about that.

TDC is from a by gone era. Best to drop the term TDC with these newer engines. Crankshaft aligned is the correct term.

brushhippie · Post by **brushhippie** » 24 May 2020, 17:00

I am a not at all familiar with these..but am not really intimidated by anything anymore..really prefer pre 80s..but this is Momma's car..one must sometimes allow for comfort in the midlife years (lol)..she really does not enjoy driving my 67 Valiant. I came up on the farm many years ago..Grampa did not spend money where he did not have to..tis a gift he gave me. I bought the alignment kit and will lock this thing down before I re-install everything..the folks around here think I am a drug dealer..driving my 500 dollar Volvo (Not counting mine or my daughters labor of course)..who knew they were just another vee..hicle. It is nice on long drives.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 24 May 2020, 17:46

My mom had a Plymouth Valiant do not recall what year just that it was a third generation Valiant (1967 - 1973 ). Spunky thing, every time she took of she squealed the tires a little.

This is what I was driving back then. 340 High performance, 750 Thermoquad, 4 speed manual and the iconic Hurst pistol grip. I can still recall going through a set of rear tires in one night of hell raising.

brushhippie · Post by **brushhippie** » 24 May 2020, 18:19

Very Nice..drove a 72 Satellite Sebring Plus myself..very similar..hand me down..best friends big brother floated it off the low water bridge..we drove it thousands of miles after that..good times.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 24 May 2020, 18:57

Too late now for crank nut removal, but an electric impact wrench works well to remove the nut. Does not even move the crank position much. You would still need your new tool for the reinstall and torque of the nut.

Family had a 1964 Dodge Dart with 225 slant six. It would spin tires if you were turning.

volvolugnut

brushhippie · Post by **brushhippie** » 25 May 2020, 02:17

I tried the electric impact..which seems to have a good bit more torque than the pneumatic version..did not touch it..tried a dewalt battery powered version that is supposed to have 1200 lbs of reverse torque also..no luck. It did seem to be much tighter than the 132 ft lbs it is supposed to be set at.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 25 May 2020, 10:55

brushhippie wrote: ↑25 May 2020, 02:17 It did seem to be much tighter than the 132 ft lbs it is supposed to be set at.

Rust can create some pretty high Initial inertia.

brushhippie · Post by **brushhippie** » 25 May 2020, 12:28

I went ahead and pulled the cam cover off to inspect the cams since I was this far into it..since I have another pair figured I would make sure I had the best of the four in there..I did. Also pushed compressed air into the cylinders listening for air escaping though a valve not seated properly...seems to be no leaks. I am having a time finding the correct spark plug oil galley seal..I believe they are part number 31401351 also need the two green rubber gaskets that go between the cover and head..have not found the number (or name) for those anywhere?

Belt fail timing jump

Re: Belt fail timing jump