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Replace ABS Ring without Alignment?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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br0dy519
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Replace ABS Ring without Alignment?

Post by br0dy519 »

Hi guys,

04 XC70, last year my driver side tone ring rotted through. I followed all prescribed methods and undid 2 nut/bolts holding the steering knuckle to the hub. I then went to my alignment guy and had him do an alignment. He told me at that time last summer that I could have removed the axle to service the tone ring without undoing those bolts and putting it out of alignment. My passenger side ring just went a couple weeks ago (Doh, this should have been a both-sides at the time job!), and I'm racking my brain trying to remember what he said, but I'm having trouble. So I'm here asking does anyone have a method for removing the axle from the hub that won't require another alignment? Thanks,
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

If my memory helps, I think you can remove the axle shaft by detaching only the two lower bolts at the strut - the shaft will barely come out - careful with the small black plastic seal, it needs go back in place because it protects the wheel bearing. You should not need alignment other than the camber setting but you can measure it beforehand (I don't think it's that important), and careful with with the ABS wire, the slightest pull on it it gets damaged (to remove the sensor always push with a screw driver from underneath the sensor) www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF-z2iPgChg

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Post by xHeart »

ABS ring and its function is independent of wheel alignment. But you must do wheel alignment after steering and suspension work regardless. An un-aligned car is self destructive, danger for motorist, and burden on your pocketbook.
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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

oragex wrote: 26 Jun 2020, 07:56 If my memory helps, I think you can remove the axle shaft by detaching only the two lower bolts at the strut - the shaft will barely come out - careful with the small black plastic seal, it needs go back in place because it protects the wheel bearing. You should not need alignment other than the camber setting but you can measure it beforehand (I don't think it's that important), and careful with with the ABS wire, the slightest pull on it it gets damaged (to remove the sensor always push with a screw driver from underneath the sensor) www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF-z2iPgChg
Thanks for the video. Those were the two bolts to which I was referring in my original post. I'm going to chalk a mark on them this time. Also for the ABS sensor I always disconnect it and dress it out of the way when doing any work on the front end.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

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Post by vtl »

You can compress the spring in place and unbolt the ball joint. But really, follow the instructions from VIDA: measure the distance between rear of the strut and front of the knuckle with outer caliper and return it to the same position after repair. No alignment is needed afterwards.

99% of time everything alignment shops are doing is a front toe. You can save your money (and often time) and do it yourself with the Trackace. Around $100 on ebay. With IPD's adjustable rear toe rods it is also easy to do it in rear. Just takes a few more iterations for searching the right thrust vector by feel. Since I replaced my rear suspension with the Nivomats the nearest shop could not align the car properly, they let it sit for a few hours before doing the alignment, and that it enough for Nivomats to sag.

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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

I completed the job this weekend. I snapped one of the lower strut bolts, and realized that in the instructions you SHOULD use new bolts anyways. So if you're in Canada and, like me, there's no Volvo dealership for 300km: call up your local Carquest with P/N Y2001849336MTC for a $6 replacement bolt.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

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Post by abscate »

br0dy519 wrote: 29 Jun 2020, 06:41 I completed the job this weekend. I snapped one of the lower strut bolts, and realized that in the instructions you SHOULD use new bolts anyways. So if you're in Canada and, like me, there's no Volvo dealership for 300km: call up your local Carquest with P/N Y2001849336MTC for a $6 replacement bolt.
Thanks for the part number reference asan alternative to the Volvo part numbers

985660

982870
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