2001 S60 D5 won't start after changing injectors copper washers

[NB10]

Hey there. Recently bought that 2001 S60 D5 with 186 000 miles.

Yesterday I tried to change all of my injectors copper washers as I had a small loss of power and diesel smell in my car. #1 #2 and #3 were fine but #4 was leaking.

However I couldn't unplug #5 since high pressure pipe nut was so tight, went so strong I twisted it. Finally gave up but now there's slack between nut and injector. I ordered some new pipes from ebay and I guess I'll have to change the injector too.

Now my car cranks but won't start and #5 gets quickly overflowed with diesel. I wish I could at least start it on 4 cylinders just to get it to garage and avoid towing it. And yes I did put back each injector in the same hole they were before.

Tried all of that :

- Unplugging faulty injector

- Cranking with pressure pipe nuts unscrewed then screwing it back again to get rid of air inside

- Brake cleaner in airtake (engine just coughed a bit but didn't start)

- Ignition on/off during 30s 15 times to get fuel pump working

Car just cranks over and over but never starts and #5 just fills up with diesel.



What can I do? How much do you think it would cost at garage?

[SuperHerman]

I know nothing about diesels, but I will comment on the fittings.

The brass fitting that screws into the green injector may be cross threaded. What I would do is remove the outside compression fitting that is on the pipe (marked "can't tighten it more"). You need two spanners for this procedure, one to hold the inner fitting "slack" and the other the outer on the line "can't tighten it more". Place the spanners together, maybe an inch or so offset and squeeze together to loosen. Once the pipe line fitting is off you can take a deep socket to remove the fitting "slack" from the injector. Check to see if you cross threaded. If you did, once the "slack" fitting is off you should be able to put a proper wrench or spanner on the injector to remove it. Then use a tap to try and repair the threads, if this does not work you may need to replace the injector or use a heliocoil to rerpair it.

On assembly, use the deep socket to correctly seat the "slack" fitting and then use two spanners, pulling apart to tighten the compression fitting on the pipe.

[jonesg]

Thats gonna need some decent flare wrenches if they're bound up.
Regular wrenches will round off the fittings.
Crows foot flare wrenches are the cheapest way ., cheap flare wrenches are useless.
Crows foot flare on a battery lowered impact would get it out, using a counterhold wrench.

[93SCMax]

I worked for Bosch designing/manufacturing diesel injection systems and what you have done is loosen the "edge filter". In the US, for the DMAX injectors, the edge filter was pinned so it wouldn't unscrew. For your automotive application, it doesn't appear to be the case.

I'd remove the entire injector and disassemble the edge filter from it. Check to see if the threads are cross threaded. If so, under those high pressures, it will leak. You can try to reseat the edge filter. Torque hard as the edge filter is designed to "bite" into the injector as part of the sealing. Resemble the injector using two wrenches as mentioned above. If it still leaks, you will need a new injector. High pressure is great for economy and emissions, but a bitch with leaks.

I assume you replaced the copper washer on the injector nozzle. If you remove the injector, you will need a new washer.
Never heard of spraying brake fluid as a starting helper. I'd stick with starting fluid.
System should be self bleeding if only a little air in the high pressure fuel line.

Good luck.

[darrylrobert]

There are different types of brake cleaner, some are basically petrol in a can...maybe not so good for a diesel car.

[jonesg]

There are different types of brake cleaner, some are basically petrol in a can...maybe not so good for a diesel car.

some sprays are over 90% napha.