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occasional brief clicking from wheels, CV joints??

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Rocket99
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Re: occasional brief clicking from wheels, CV joints??

Post by Rocket99 »

Thx Mo great response

Rocket99
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Post by Rocket99 »

Thx again Mo. Ordered the needle. Haynes manual specifies molybdenum disulfide grease. never had one of these apart, looks like the same MB uses, a metallic cage with inner and outer "race" ballbearings occupy. So, probe a bit with needle tip to inject it into that assembly and inject on two locations 180 degrees apart.
Slick advice.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

They have to go back together a certain way, with a definite orientation between the Inner and outer race. Put a punch mar or scratch on two pieces before knocking apart
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Rocket99
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Post by Rocket99 »

Sounds good abscate so thx. For the moment taking them apart is way way down on my list of things to do. Only if I must.

I do intend to inject fresh lube and patch up the boots if they need that.

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Post by abscate »

They can fall apart if they are out so be careful
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Rocket99
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Post by Rocket99 »

just made a trip into town and back, not a single click.

I will inspect the boots, got the gear to inject more lube, may well do that. That is unlikely to hurt

FLXC90 knows his shit

Rocket99
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Post by Rocket99 »

FLXC90 wrote: 19 Jul 2020, 21:01 Also, if the car sat for a prolonged period, the grease in the CVs may have settled. Once you started driving, it got warmed up and slung/flowed to where it needs to be. Just like "square" tires do after you start driving.
Good shot FLXC90
not one click in recent days of driving about. Seems as though your comment was a bullseye. Thank you.

Rocket99
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Post by Rocket99 »

abscate wrote: 21 Jul 2020, 10:41 They have to go back together a certain way, with a definite orientation between the Inner and outer race. Put a punch mar or scratch on two pieces before knocking apart
Are you saying the same ball bearing should occupy the same inner and outer grooves in the inner and outer races....? Would allowing interchange of ball bearings that are probably sorted by exact size... but the grooves in the race should be assembled as they were from the factory ...?

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Post by abscate »

Rocket99 wrote: 25 Jul 2020, 07:18
abscate wrote: 21 Jul 2020, 10:41 They have to go back together a certain way, with a definite orientation between the Inner and outer race. Put a punch mar or scratch on two pieces before knocking apart
Are you saying the same ball bearing should occupy the same inner and outer grooves in the inner and outer races....? Would allowing interchange of ball bearings that are probably sorted by exact size... but the grooves in the race should be assembled as they were from the factory ...?

Ball bearings can be moved around i a given cv joint but it is better to not move them from one to cv joint to another ( I have done this with no ill effects)

I was referring to the reassembly of the joint where the two races have a certain orientation to each other required in order to fully articulate, it is possible to assemble th m incorrectly so that they look ok, but won’t fully articulate over the intended range of motion

I’ve done that , too, with ill effects

:lol:
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Rocket99
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Post by Rocket99 »

Mo....
Regarding that occasional clicking from CV joints. I have heard almost none for a week or 10 days. Not zero but close to it.

I got the injecting needle for moly grease, used it on the Mercedes and works well.

Also inspected the CV boots, they look good no breach or leaking lube. IN THE FUTURE WHEN I DO ADD GREASE SHOULD IT BE TO INBOARD, OUTBOARD OR BOTH CV JOINTS.

To inspect boots I did jack the Volvo way up high. Tearing what is left of my hair out looking for proper jack points ....I placed a floor jack under the jacking "hitch" spot on the rocker panel area both sides one at a time a bit front of the rear seam on front doors, placed a 3/4 in. bit of plywood "pad" on the floor jack cradle, which was crushed by the hitch gizmo there under the weight of one side of the car. It seemed solid and stable, no creaks or groans. It seemed solid .... I placed jack stands just in front of the rear wheel under the round structure, and just rear of the front wheels on a solid looking bolt anchoring a triangle frame that projects forward that stabilizes the front axle. ARE THESE CORRECT LOCATIONS FOR JACKING AND JACK STANDS Volvo aint exactly easy to figure this out.

I've used the heavy aluminum casting under the differential (V70 AWD) also to lift both rear wheels, and the center of the subframe of the front. Nobody seems to say those are safe spots for both front wheels or both rear wheels.

Your information has helped a lot .... I've found Volvos so different this guidance is helpful

Thx

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