What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

Post by **smacknab** » 05 Aug 2020, 18:30

abscate wrote: 05 Aug 2020, 17:58 Not with a COTS like our P80s

It has to be really cooking for 100% compressor duty cycle

What's COTS?

Post by **Chuck W** » 05 Aug 2020, 18:39

amblerman wrote: 05 Aug 2020, 17:19
what coating did you use for that green?
-A

They're powdercoated. My buddy had some left-over powder from a previous project of mine, so I just had him shoot them with that.

Post by **abscate** » 05 Aug 2020, 18:42

Orfice tube air conditioning , vs expansion valve type.

P80s use orfice tube type

Post by **ZionXIX** » 05 Aug 2020, 20:56

The A/C saga continues. Somehow the new AC schrader valve from FCP doesn't seal. I don't know if I damaged it on install but it would not hold a vacuum no matter how tight. I've ordered 2 more since as usual my local stores don't have any. Even more strange we could not charge the system at the shop. The machine would not go passed 0.24 lbs. We were quite baffled.

Post by **abscate** » 06 Aug 2020, 05:06

Did anyone use stop leak on that AC , Zion?

That is death to these systems

Post by **ZionXIX** » 06 Aug 2020, 06:27

abscate wrote: 06 Aug 2020, 05:06 Did anyone use stop leak on that AC , Zion?

That is death to these systems

In my younger years I have topped up the system with off the shelf DIY kits. Its entirely possible those had stop leak. But the system was charged and cooling before I started all of this mess. There is no reason for it not to accept a charge. That machine was also upset about no high side to read. I have considered just pulling a vacuum and connecting a can of R134a myself through the manifold gauges but I want to do things correctly.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 06 Aug 2020, 09:02

That is really strange.

I believe you can remove the high pressure switch to attach the high side, it should have a shrader valve behind it to prevent the system from losing pressure. I know I've seen it done that way, although I've never had to do it.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Aug 2020, 04:21

bmdubya1198 wrote: 06 Aug 2020, 09:02 That is really strange.

I believe you can remove the high pressure switch to attach the high side, it should have a shrader valve behind it to prevent the system from losing pressure. I know I've seen it done that way, although I've never had to do it.

It does indeed have a Schrader type valve under the high pressure switch or pressostat. I looked at Volvo web store for a part number, alas, none given.

Post by **ZionXIX** » 07 Aug 2020, 05:45

abscate wrote: 07 Aug 2020, 04:21
bmdubya1198 wrote: 06 Aug 2020, 09:02 That is really strange.

I believe you can remove the high pressure switch to attach the high side, it should have a shrader valve behind it to prevent the system from losing pressure. I know I've seen it done that way, although I've never had to do it.
It does indeed have a Schrader type valve under the high pressure switch or pressostat

While that is true, there is no quick connect fitting for the hose connection. And of course now he's telling me I should have flushed everything out with an AC solvent while it was apart. I wonder if there is a blockage of gunk somewhere preventing charge from accepting.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Aug 2020, 07:22

The new style cans of R134 can be troublesome to adapt to manifold sets.

Unless you know the system was open and gunked up the flush isn’t really necessary