Official Engine Stalling Thread
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Secondary Air Injection System Diagram
I've just become a Volvo owner for the first time 3 days ago. Got a lot of car for very little money. Still to pin down exact model but its a 2001 V70 2.4 auto estate. I bought the car at auction and when I went outside to inspect what I'd bought I met a guy inspecting the car. Turned out he's a bit of a Volvo fanatic and knows a lot about them.
I don't know if it's common knowledge or not but he told me the only recurrent problem I might have with the car was the crank sensor failing and causing the engine to stall while driving. He pointed it out to me and told me it should only cost
I don't know if it's common knowledge or not but he told me the only recurrent problem I might have with the car was the crank sensor failing and causing the engine to stall while driving. He pointed it out to me and told me it should only cost
[quote="Malkybob"]I've just become a Volvo owner for the first time 3 days ago. Got a lot of car for very little money. Still to pin down exact model but its a 2001 V70 2.4 auto estate. I bought the car at auction and when I went outside to inspect what I'd bought I met a guy inspecting the car. Turned out he's a bit of a Volvo fanatic and knows a lot about them.
I don't know if it's common knowledge or not but he told me the only recurrent problem I might have with the car was the crank sensor failing and causing the engine to stall while driving. He pointed it out to me and told me it should only cost
I don't know if it's common knowledge or not but he told me the only recurrent problem I might have with the car was the crank sensor failing and causing the engine to stall while driving. He pointed it out to me and told me it should only cost
2002 V70 (Non-Turbo)
1998 S70 (Non-Turbo)
1998 S70 (Non-Turbo)
OH,
And I recommend cleaning the Throttle Body too. I found pictures here on where it is and how to do it.
Go to the link I posted above, find your model, and have at it.
It only took 10 minutes to to with Throttle Body Cleaner and a few paper towels.
The dealership wants over $100 to do it. Thieves !!!! LOL
And I recommend cleaning the Throttle Body too. I found pictures here on where it is and how to do it.
Go to the link I posted above, find your model, and have at it.
It only took 10 minutes to to with Throttle Body Cleaner and a few paper towels.
The dealership wants over $100 to do it. Thieves !!!! LOL
2002 V70 (Non-Turbo)
1998 S70 (Non-Turbo)
1998 S70 (Non-Turbo)
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redsouther
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 6 September 2006
- Year and Model:
- Location: Georgia
My 2000 v70 (108k miles) has stalled twice in the last 3 days. I've owned the vehicle for a little over a year, and this has never happened before. Each time, the vehicle begins to stutter and hesitate under normal driving conditions. At first, it's minor hesitation, but then the following lights come on: Engine Oil, Battery, and Transmission (Arrow - no flashing) and the vehicle shuts down completely. (No Check Engine Light)
The first time, we had it towed into a shop Sunday night, and the next morning it was fine. They couldn't duplicate the problem or find any codes. Now, 2 days later it has just happened again. I let it sit for a few minutes, and it started and ran for about a mile. It stalled again, and I was able to get off the road...barely. After waiting a few minutes, I started it up again and the same 3 lights came on as it started to hesitate and spit and sputter. I put it in Nuetral, Reverse, Drive - it continued to stutter for about 30 seconds but never shut off. Eventually, it returned to normal, the lights went off, and I was able to drive several miles to a parking lot without any problems. This was all in the middle of 5:00 traffic, so I'm leaving it there until I can go back and drive it home.
I hate to have it towed in again, knowing that it will probably be fine in the morning and they won't be able to do anything.
I've read through all of this thread, so I'm familiar with the many possibilities that could be causing this. Anyone have any ideas where to start?
The first time, we had it towed into a shop Sunday night, and the next morning it was fine. They couldn't duplicate the problem or find any codes. Now, 2 days later it has just happened again. I let it sit for a few minutes, and it started and ran for about a mile. It stalled again, and I was able to get off the road...barely. After waiting a few minutes, I started it up again and the same 3 lights came on as it started to hesitate and spit and sputter. I put it in Nuetral, Reverse, Drive - it continued to stutter for about 30 seconds but never shut off. Eventually, it returned to normal, the lights went off, and I was able to drive several miles to a parking lot without any problems. This was all in the middle of 5:00 traffic, so I'm leaving it there until I can go back and drive it home.
I hate to have it towed in again, knowing that it will probably be fine in the morning and they won't be able to do anything.
I've read through all of this thread, so I'm familiar with the many possibilities that could be causing this. Anyone have any ideas where to start?
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redsouther
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 6 September 2006
- Year and Model:
- Location: Georgia
Well, I finally broke down and took it in to the dealership. After 2 days of driving/testing it they finally got it to act up for them, and it turns out it's a fuel pump relay...a $60 part, and it's costing me $278.
I was so close to just replacing the relay myself, hoping that was the problem...oh well.
I was so close to just replacing the relay myself, hoping that was the problem...oh well.
my 94 volvo i just bought yesterday is having problems with constanly stalling While driving at high speeds and will refuse to start for a couple of minutes after it stalls, also if i start it in the drive way and turn it off it refuses to start for a minute or two. the guy i bought if from said it started a couple of days ago and it went away when he cleaned the cables and throttle body. i tried the resolder of capacitors on the Fuel relay, it runs different now but still didnt want to start right after i turned it off a couple of times. it also misteriously started smoking, but it is intermittent and can barely see it. it has a new fuel pump and a new fuel filter.
i will try re-cleaning the TB and cleaning the sensors and double checking the wires tomorrow.
the intersting thing about this problem is that the transmition will disengage but the motor will still run for about 5 seconds before the motor cuts off. no codes.
EDIT: allthough the car has been sitting for a while i do think i have found the problem, I did the fuel pump relay fix and the car was still having issues. so i cleaned the Throttle body off really good and now she starts every time and didnt Die while driving. I am now working a Smoke from the Tailpipe issue.
i will try re-cleaning the TB and cleaning the sensors and double checking the wires tomorrow.
the intersting thing about this problem is that the transmition will disengage but the motor will still run for about 5 seconds before the motor cuts off. no codes.
EDIT: allthough the car has been sitting for a while i do think i have found the problem, I did the fuel pump relay fix and the car was still having issues. so i cleaned the Throttle body off really good and now she starts every time and didnt Die while driving. I am now working a Smoke from the Tailpipe issue.
Bill, my 1996 850R stalled out on me every now and then. It would only happen when I was taking off from a dead stop. I would say it happened about once a week. What I found that solved the problem was new spark plug wires. Since the new wires it hasn't stalled out once.
Eric
Eric
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i_is_tiger_woods
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 10 February 2008
- Year and Model:
- Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Good day, all,
I recently became the owner of a 1993 850, and considering the remarkable price I managed to get it at, I would really like to hold on to it as a testament of great value shopping. There is a bit of a back story to how I became a Volvo owner...I was a die-hard Japanese driver...my first car in college was a 1996 Toyota Camry, until that was totaled and then I went to a 1997 Honda Civic...then to a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant...then a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse...back to a Galant...traded out of the Galant to a 2001 Accord that got totaled in Virginia (got rear-ended and then shoved into the car in front of me...that was a heart-breaking loss)...purchased a brand new 2006 Toyota Corolla. Well, money got extraordinarily tight after I lost my job, and I was forced to get rid of my Corolla. In an effort to cut expenses, I began searching for cars that cost no more than $1000, but everything I looked at had some sort of major defect or malfunction. I stopped at an independent car dealership, walked up to a dealer, and said simply "what do you have for $750?" He replied "I have this old Volvo in the back i could give to you for that much." Skeptical, I decided to examine it first. Words could not describe my shock when I discovered just how well the car appeared! No leaks! No huge dents! No rust! A working (and kick-ass) sound system! All of the electronic components still worked! Heated seats! An ashtray!!! The only physical issues came in the way of the paint, which was so heavily oxidized to the point that the clearcoat was non-existent in spots on the roof and hood, and the fact that the bottom portion of the front bumper cover was missing. Otherwise, for $750, this was a no-brainer. I drove the car home happily that day, knowing that I may have very well pulled off the impossible, and for about a month that feeling remained...until one day on my way home from work...
While driving down the interstate at about 75 MPH, cruise control set, I noticed a slight degree of hesitation in the engine. RPMs were reading substantially lower than normal (normal being approx. 3000), and efforts to accelerate were met with no response or a jerky increase in RPMs, only to be followed by the same "coasting" effect. After pulling off to the side of the road, once RPMs dropped below 1200, the entire instrument cluster lit up like Christmas and the car coasted to a stop. The first attempt to re-start was met with an electronic "whirring" noise, but no cranking. The second attempt involved cranking, but no engine turnover. The third resulted in a successful start, and I drove the rest of the way home with no issues. However, as time passed, the problem increased in severity and frequency. Unfortunately, since it is so intermittent, it is difficult to place a bead on exactly what is wrong. The car has a tendency to stall while at high speeds, at stops or whenever idling, and the car also has difficulty starting at times. All of this has occurred regardless of outdoor temperature or weather conditions. By "difficulty starting," i mean initially the car makes that "whirring" noise, then after waiting a few seconds a re-attempt is usually successful. Also, sometimes following the whirr comes a muffled "thuddish-click" which resembles the sound of a large electrical breaker being shut...like some physical component under the hood has just reset itself and rotated into another position. After that noise is heard, the car ALWAYS starts up. The frequency of stalling varies; the car has gone for days on end without a stall, but then it would make up for lost time and stall out about four times in the course of a one-way journey to wherever. The record to this date is six stalls in one trip. Six. That's six times the frustration and embarrassment. Mind you, these are twenty-minute journeys; it's not as if this occurs on a cross-country drive.
So, there you have it. My dilemma. The car has AT LEAST 191,000 miles on it (the odometer stopped at 191,096), so considering the fact that this is the only problem (and based on the consensus it seems like a fairly common problem), I made out fairly well on scoring this car for $750. Since I am far too lazy to read all twenty-seven pages of this thread, I only read about ten and they all seem to have found a solution to their specific issues. I may try all of them at once, and hopefully something will work, but if anyone has an other suggestions, I'm open to them. I just want my car to work again. That's all. Is that too much to ask?
I recently became the owner of a 1993 850, and considering the remarkable price I managed to get it at, I would really like to hold on to it as a testament of great value shopping. There is a bit of a back story to how I became a Volvo owner...I was a die-hard Japanese driver...my first car in college was a 1996 Toyota Camry, until that was totaled and then I went to a 1997 Honda Civic...then to a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant...then a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse...back to a Galant...traded out of the Galant to a 2001 Accord that got totaled in Virginia (got rear-ended and then shoved into the car in front of me...that was a heart-breaking loss)...purchased a brand new 2006 Toyota Corolla. Well, money got extraordinarily tight after I lost my job, and I was forced to get rid of my Corolla. In an effort to cut expenses, I began searching for cars that cost no more than $1000, but everything I looked at had some sort of major defect or malfunction. I stopped at an independent car dealership, walked up to a dealer, and said simply "what do you have for $750?" He replied "I have this old Volvo in the back i could give to you for that much." Skeptical, I decided to examine it first. Words could not describe my shock when I discovered just how well the car appeared! No leaks! No huge dents! No rust! A working (and kick-ass) sound system! All of the electronic components still worked! Heated seats! An ashtray!!! The only physical issues came in the way of the paint, which was so heavily oxidized to the point that the clearcoat was non-existent in spots on the roof and hood, and the fact that the bottom portion of the front bumper cover was missing. Otherwise, for $750, this was a no-brainer. I drove the car home happily that day, knowing that I may have very well pulled off the impossible, and for about a month that feeling remained...until one day on my way home from work...
While driving down the interstate at about 75 MPH, cruise control set, I noticed a slight degree of hesitation in the engine. RPMs were reading substantially lower than normal (normal being approx. 3000), and efforts to accelerate were met with no response or a jerky increase in RPMs, only to be followed by the same "coasting" effect. After pulling off to the side of the road, once RPMs dropped below 1200, the entire instrument cluster lit up like Christmas and the car coasted to a stop. The first attempt to re-start was met with an electronic "whirring" noise, but no cranking. The second attempt involved cranking, but no engine turnover. The third resulted in a successful start, and I drove the rest of the way home with no issues. However, as time passed, the problem increased in severity and frequency. Unfortunately, since it is so intermittent, it is difficult to place a bead on exactly what is wrong. The car has a tendency to stall while at high speeds, at stops or whenever idling, and the car also has difficulty starting at times. All of this has occurred regardless of outdoor temperature or weather conditions. By "difficulty starting," i mean initially the car makes that "whirring" noise, then after waiting a few seconds a re-attempt is usually successful. Also, sometimes following the whirr comes a muffled "thuddish-click" which resembles the sound of a large electrical breaker being shut...like some physical component under the hood has just reset itself and rotated into another position. After that noise is heard, the car ALWAYS starts up. The frequency of stalling varies; the car has gone for days on end without a stall, but then it would make up for lost time and stall out about four times in the course of a one-way journey to wherever. The record to this date is six stalls in one trip. Six. That's six times the frustration and embarrassment. Mind you, these are twenty-minute journeys; it's not as if this occurs on a cross-country drive.
So, there you have it. My dilemma. The car has AT LEAST 191,000 miles on it (the odometer stopped at 191,096), so considering the fact that this is the only problem (and based on the consensus it seems like a fairly common problem), I made out fairly well on scoring this car for $750. Since I am far too lazy to read all twenty-seven pages of this thread, I only read about ten and they all seem to have found a solution to their specific issues. I may try all of them at once, and hopefully something will work, but if anyone has an other suggestions, I'm open to them. I just want my car to work again. That's all. Is that too much to ask?
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marcusantonus
- Posts: 7
- Joined: 26 May 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: San Francisco, Ca.
dosbricks wrote:Tina may have hit on a diagnostic point here. If the car stalls and you shut the ignition off and don't try to restart it, but instead loosen the connection at the fuel rail.... if no gas spews out, then likely fuel pump problem.
Normally the fuel system is pressured all the time whether the car is running or not.
By the way, this would mean taking care not to get any gas on the hot exhaust.
Just throwing in my 2 cents.
1997 Volvo 850 Turbo R wagon
My wifee was driving then had idle problems and cut out. No apparent sign of breakage..check all of the vaccum line, cleaned throttle body, replaced fuel filter, fuel pump was recently changed by previous owner who says he had starting issues...i think its the MAF or cam positions sensor...
i was checking the fuel rail as you described...fuel spilled out just a little..didnt seem like it was alot of pressure against it...like a half table spoon came out..it is supposed to spray out or spill out?
i just ordered both a new fuel pump and maf sensor...
my symptoms are the following:
car starts up...then idles rough and then cuts out around 20 seconds.. start back up idles even worst...getting spark, changed the fuel filter, new plugs, wires look good. increase the throttle and it will continue to run poor sounds like cylinders are banging sometimes off.
Get the P0103/P0102 codes from OBDII reader. Both indicate fuel issue/air and ignition, misfire. hmmm..
im thinking fuel pump, MAF, and cam position sensor..
i dont want to install the fuel pump if the fuel rail is under the correct pressure, can someone test their fuel rail pressure just by pushing it? plz
any imput appreciated.
thx
M
Thank you.
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