SAS Delete Troubleshooting (96 850)

[abscate]

The solenoid needs to be in place. If you remove the valve, you need to plug the hole in the exhaust manifold, thread size......standby

[ToriWhite]

The solenoid needs to be in place. If you remove the valve, you need to plug the hole in the exhaust manifold, thread size......standby

If I leave all the pump & tubing in place, do I need to plug the hole still? Or do I have to remove tubing and plug it for the SAS delete to work? I thought plugging it was just what people did when they removed the pump to declutter the bay

[Richard99]

I never really understood the desire to do the SAS delete. I know it can be a bit pricey to replace the components but it's an easy fix and then you won't have to worry about resale or emissions to another state.

[misha]

If sas valve fails,the condensation(water)from exhaust valve will go through air pump and then be sucked into intake,passing by MAF sensor and damage it.

[ToriWhite]

Interesting findings today.. this may be the final piece of the puzzle. Today; after many power cycles and codes cleared, I realized something..

...the 0410 CEL code is coming on before I start the engine! Even with everything plugged in! The only things that run pre-start (that I know of) is a little squirt from the fuel pump, and that’s it- no engine, no vacuum pressure to check lines, and that the SAS only does its SASsy business after ignition... makes me think this actually is a soldering fault!
(Unless I’m mistaken about the timing of events here.. does the SAS only kick off after ignition, or is it before, like the Fuel pump?)

Pending this being a soldering fault or not, I also read that I should ‘have the white lines from the vacuum tree removed and capped’ in another thread - I don’t understand the vacuum tree, and am still coming to grips with how the SAS system works, so I’d appreciate if someone told me that the pic I attached of plugging one white line (the one to the relay, the other white line goes to the air box, so I assume it stays(?)) that this won’t explode my engine by firing it up with the line off (I may seem neurotic here, but due to unforeseen circumstances, this hobby car is now suddenly my only car, and I’ll be in a real pinch if I cook my MAF or something!)

I never really understood the desire to do the SAS delete. I know it can be a bit pricey to replace the components but it's an easy fix and then you won't have to worry about resale or emissions to another state.

My Volvo has 0 resale value, while it’s perfectly functional and a great car with arguably another decade left in it; the market doesn’t look fondly at a rusted out 20+ year old car with mismatched body panels

[abscate]

That code is probably sticky in the ECU from previous faults or there is an electrical fault it is detecting.

SaS pumps air into the exhaust manifold during warmup , then shuts off until the next cold start cycle

[ToriWhite]

That code is probably sticky in the ECU from previous faults or there is an electrical fault it is detecting.

SaS pumps air into the exhaust manifold during warmup , then shuts off until the next cold start cycle

Tried sitting the car with battery DC for a couple minutes, code still came back on ignition pos 1, no engine activity. Starting to really think it’s just a soldering fault, but I also don’t want to get my hopes up.

Going to pull out the ECU and peek around, I know the resistor should have a ‘drop’ of 1.6, (which I’ll have to look up how to test with a volt-meter), I assume too that I’ve got to clip it out just to test it, right?

[abscate]

You can Leave it in, and measure voltage to ground on each side with the key on. Be careful with your probes, practice with key off and battery disconnected until you know you won’t touch anything else

It’s a diode, not a resistor.