Help Pls: Found this

jgkirk · Post by **jgkirk** » 25 Aug 2020, 13:13

Hello,

I have a 2005 S60 2.4 that has had issues for awhile. Symptoms are RPM@2000 to 2500 the car lurches/lops, almost stalls under acceleration from a stop (sometimes) and is generally not reliable. I replaced the coils and plugs, replaced the air filter and even took it in to a local shop that said they "think" I need to replace the entire exhaust system ($3500). I have a radiator issue that I can manage and was making the repair today when I saw this:

So, what is the little hose connection that is broke going from the top of the engine, along the oil cap and down to ???. I also noticed fresh oil around the coil mounts. How much trouble am I in? And, is this a potential cause of my problems or just adding to them? Thank you in advance...

Jeff

Post by **- Pete -** » 25 Aug 2020, 15:14

That’s a breather hose that goes from the top of the black box (oil trap) to the cam cover. You should be able to replace it without removing the intake plenum/manifold, so that’s good news. That hose will vent oil/vapors all over the top of your engine so get on it soon if you can.
If you’ve never done the PCV service before, this may be an opportune time to tackle it.

I’d watch those no-name ignition coils. They tend to have short lifespans.

jgkirk · Post by **jgkirk** » 25 Aug 2020, 17:20

Pete,
Thank you for your reply. Yes, I have not tackled anything like this before, but inexpensive enough to get the part. Again, would this potentially explain the performance issues I described? The coils, understood. Decision was made for me due to economics but will keep them close to the top of the list once I get going again. This is killing employment opportunities and covid is not helping. Very little resource.

Post by **cn90** » 25 Aug 2020, 18:02

You can replace this hose w/o removing anything.

Years ago in the 1990s, the Volvo 850 was fitted with rubber. Later Volvo changed to plastic, what a disaster.
Then they went back to rubber.

Buy only Volvo genuine hose.

I replaced it, there are some tricks involved, I outlined the tricks in this thread:

viewtopic.php?t=55413&start=10

Post by **cn90** » 25 Aug 2020, 18:03

BTW,

Welcome to the forum, however you are late to the PCV party, which started some 15 years ago...

jgkirk · Post by **jgkirk** » 25 Aug 2020, 21:15

Thank you everyone. I will heed to the advice here and review the linked topic.

Post by **abscate** » 26 Aug 2020, 02:40

Jeff , start by easing it off the snout on top of the engine. You will need to unbend the fancy metal oetiker clamp holding it in by putting a small screwdriver into the open ear And twisting it to relive its tension

You can clean and tape that hose asa temp measure and also assess its impact.

Nitrile gloves
Clean hose with a little gas on apaper towel , you can get some gas from your engine fuel rail at the little tire valve on the left, driver side

Let dry
Tape with electrical tape matching colour of car

Post by **Mike Langlois** » 26 Aug 2020, 10:01

I have a spare muffler and resonator removed from a 2002 V70 2.4T and possibly the down pipe and converter; the flange would not come apart, so I cut the tubing and it can be welded up easily. If these will fit, they will help and you qualify for the MVS Financial distress program, contact me through a site Moderator.
Manic Mike

Post by **oragex** » 26 Aug 2020, 11:20

Referring to the shop saying to replace the entire exhaust for a $3500, run away from that place
How many miles? Maybe you have a leak on the exhaust, may be the flex downpipe or the flange after the catalytic converter or the rear brackets. Anyhow, nothing to do with your actual acceleration issue. Plus you can get inexpensive parts to replace, the fool wants to make you spend crazy money for a genuine exhaust.

As for the acceleration issue, my bet is it does not have to do with the PCV hose - just my guess. I can pop that hose off the engine top and it doesn't change anything in engine power. I would leave the hose for now until you find the acceleration problem. Test first your PCV and also inspect your timing belt while there www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS3bawaBMMk

The first thing I notice is all your ignition coils are not branded. It was a mistake to replace all the original genuine coils, but that's what cheap garages do. I would first try to get some used Bosch coils from a junkyard, pretty cheap. Also see what spark plugs you have in there, the non turbo engine must absolutely use the ones with three or four prongs - again, you can get used ones because you don't want to keep spending. Once you get the correct coils and plugs, see from there

jgkirk · Post by **jgkirk** » 28 Aug 2020, 08:22

I am impressed folks, thank you again. So, @abscate I was thinking about doing this just as a test to see if this process is a solution. However, another commented that they can run all day long without performance issues without this tube. But that does not make a lot of sense to me since this is related to gases and by extension pressure, so what is the PSI supposed to be in this part of the system?