850 Rear Shocks Question

Messerschmitt101 · Post by **Messerschmitt101** » 24 Aug 2020, 17:01

So I just got a set of rear shocks for my '96 850.

I've seen conflicting info in guides: Do I have to jack the car up to change them? Or can I do it without jacking the car?

I think one guide says to jack it up, and the other says there is no need, so is it a personal preference thing, or is one way easier than the other?

Please let me know when you can, thanks all!

Post by **Roger_850T** » 24 Aug 2020, 20:58

I've always jacked it up, rear of the car on jack stands, and a floor jack to slightly lift the wheel as needed to make it easy to get the bolts in. Thinking about it, you might be able to do it without jacking, but how do you get under there? Maybe back it up onto ramps? I can certainly say that jacking the car up works fine, not sure about the other way. Good luck!

Roger

Cookeh · Post by **Cookeh** » 25 Aug 2020, 01:51

Perfectly possible both ways. Both of the two bolts you need to access at the bottom of the car are readily accessible from the ground.

Post by **jreed** » 25 Aug 2020, 05:48

Both methods have their pros and cons... it's up to individual preference. For what it's worth I replaced my rear shocks without raising the car. It went fine and it seemed safer that way but I did have to lie on the ground and crawl under the back of the car.
This shows how I went about it: viewtopic.php?t=40415

Post by **abscate** » 25 Aug 2020, 07:01

Bit nicer to work on rear ramps but that’s a me issue, BFG

callahanoffroad · Post by **callahanoffroad** » 25 Aug 2020, 08:50

I don't lift the vehicle.

What I do is this:

1: remover lower shock nuts.

2: remover upper shock mounts with shock still inside.

3: pitch or recycle entire assembly.

4: mount your shock to the upper mounts outside of the car.

5: slide rear shock down through access hole.

6: bolt new shocks onto lowers

7: bolt new upper shock mounts into the car.

8: clean up your tools and congratulate yourself for being so handy and smart.

Messerschmitt101 · Post by **Messerschmitt101** » 25 Aug 2020, 16:49

I've got one more question about this: Do I NEED the torque wrenches to do this job successfully?
Will I regret it if I don't use them? I'm a college student and need to make sure I need something before I buy it.

I do plan on doing front struts when I am able, so if they will help on that I think I will buy them now and use them.

Thanks for all of your help!!!

Post by **jreed** » 26 Aug 2020, 05:53

I would recommend checking out the Harbor Freight $10 torque wrenches. I checked the calibration on them after a few years of service and they were accurate to +/- 10%. Data here:
viewtopic.php?t=26528&p=541939

Post by **abscate** » 29 Aug 2020, 05:22

Messerschmitt101 wrote: ↑25 Aug 2020, 16:49 I've got one more question about this: Do I NEED the torque wrenches to do this job successfully?
Will I regret it if I don't use them? I'm a college student and need to make sure I need something before I buy it.

I do plan on doing front struts when I am able, so if they will help on that I think I will buy them now and use them.

Thanks for all of your help!!!

What do you mean by torque wrenches.....I’ve found in parts of the country people use this word to mean what we call breaker bars, not the tool that gives calibrated twist.

I pulled this info from web, subject to verification

ation
1) Using a NEW nut, install mount on shock absorber. Tighten nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 N.m) for standard shock absorbers, or 59 ft. lbs. (80 N.m) for Nivomat shock absorbers. Position a jack under trailing arm and raise trailing arm. Ensure spring is installed correctly in upper spring seat. Install shock absorber on lower mount. Tighten shock absorber nut to 59 ft. lbs. (80 N

All of the torques range from 20-60 ft lbs. you can estimate these with a ratchet and you will be fine. If you can find a one foot pipe to fit your ratchet at a Lowe’s,in the steel pipe section, it is even easier

These aren’t critical torque areas