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Only Drained 90oz Of Coolant Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Oka
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Re: Only Drained 90oz Of Coolant

Post by Oka »

jonesg wrote: 23 Sep 2020, 22:55 maybe the thermostat isn't opening.
What if I remove the thermostat and refill the coolant. Yes that could be lots of work but at least that would be a process of elimination.

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

The thermostat usually fails in slightly open position so there should always be fluid inside the hose, with an air bubble at the top. Try filling a little more the coolant tank, above the max line - watch carefully as it warms up so it doesn't overflow. If you need later on to remove coolant, may use a turkey blaster or just lift the tank and drain a little - must disconnect the level sensor connector before lifting the coolant so as not to damage the sensor

The coolant tank also must keep some pressure inside with the engine fully warmed up. Sometimes the cap seal will leak pressure, or the clamp at the small return hose may not be tight enough

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Post by Oka »

oragex wrote: 24 Sep 2020, 12:05 The thermostat usually fails in slightly open position so there should always be fluid inside the hose, with an air bubble at the top. Try filling a little more the coolant tank, above the max line - watch carefully as it warms up so it doesn't overflow. If you need later on to remove coolant, may use a turkey blaster or just lift the tank and drain a little - must disconnect the level sensor connector before lifting the coolant so as not to damage the sensor

The coolant tank also must keep some pressure inside with the engine fully warmed up. Sometimes the cap seal will leak pressure, or the clamp at the small return hose may not be tight enough
I filled the tank to the overflow hose level. I would think since the tank is higher than the radiator upper hose, that gravity would send the coolant into the upper hose. The tank cap seem to close pretty well - "tight enough".

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Post by jonesg »

Oka wrote: 24 Sep 2020, 16:38
oragex wrote: 24 Sep 2020, 12:05 The thermostat usually fails in slightly open position so there should always be fluid inside the hose, with an air bubble at the top. Try filling a little more the coolant tank, above the max line - watch carefully as it warms up so it doesn't overflow. If you need later on to remove coolant, may use a turkey blaster or just lift the tank and drain a little - must disconnect the level sensor connector before lifting the coolant so as not to damage the sensor

The coolant tank also must keep some pressure inside with the engine fully warmed up. Sometimes the cap seal will leak pressure, or the clamp at the small return hose may not be tight enough
I filled the tank to the overflow hose level. I would think since the tank is higher than the radiator upper hose, that gravity would send the coolant into the upper hose. The tank cap seem to close pretty well - "tight enough".
if its leaking on the tank you would see the chalky residue.
I just replaced my overflow tank, older ones begin to crack especially on the molded corners.
As the engine comes up to temp the top hose should feel hot....if not the engine would be expected to overheat.

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Post by Oka »

1. New Thermostat (89C/192F)
2. New Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

3. FAULT CODE:
ECM-2000 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor - Signal too low.
.
4-5.jpg
4-5.jpg (83.76 KiB) Viewed 909 times
.
Please, educate me. Why should I get the ECM-2000 code if I have #1 & #2
All the reading I did on the ECT, I did not come across #5.

Thanks you!

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Post by oragex »

The wires going into the electrical connector get damaged, either exposed - possible short, or simply cracked

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Post by Oka »

oragex wrote: 26 Sep 2020, 00:23 The wires going into the electrical connector get damaged, either exposed - possible short, or simply cracked
You mean the one connected to the Coolant Temperature Sensor? If you mean that, I have really not checked it's integrity. I really should.

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Post by Oka »

oragex wrote: 26 Sep 2020, 00:23 The wires going into the electrical connector get damaged, either exposed - possible short, or simply cracked
I got these reading at the wire harness to the temperature sensor. Seems all is fine at the harness, new thermostat and new temperature sensor.
CTS1.jpg
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Post by jonesg »

Might be a stored code from the old sensor.
Maybe try clear codes and test drive. Read again.

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Post by Oka »

jonesg wrote: 26 Sep 2020, 17:54 Might be a stored code from the old sensor.
Maybe try clear codes and test drive. Read again.
I can clear the code, but the Check Engine light and this gauge will still be an issue.
Running the engine for a less than a minutes and turn off, the radiator fan comes on.
TempGuage.jpg
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