Well, this explains alot. Is this fixiable? Or did I just F*** myself??!!

[wbrenegade420]

Thanks you all so much for your responses. I've felt very alone on this and y'all are making me feel like I have support!! Much appreciated.
So this is where I'm at. I went and purchased a 100mm length of an 8mm stud and cut off a piece a tad longer than the original bolt. I then cleaned the mating surface around where the hole is.

Smoothed surface

I used a piece of copper wire to wrap around the end of the stud where it would be screwed in at in hopes that it would act as a filler to squish into any misshapen crevice inside the hole and possibly provide an extra 'bite' which in all honesty it kinda feels like it did.

wrapped stud with copper wire

Then, using nozzle tip, i 'injected' the JB mixture into the gouged hole before inserting the copper wrapped stud, copper wrapped side first, in the hole as well, turning it and tightening it carefully with soft ended vise grips to not damage the studs treads.

installed stud in hole filled with JB

I then smoothed out, with my finger any extra goop from the JB. I will now wait overnight and tomorrow will get back to it to sand it down smooth at all the places it will need (mostly where the bolt meets the block. Then once smooth and dry, I will install a green Volvo gasket with an Aisin water pump. Fingers crossed.

[RickHaleParker]

Then once smooth and dry, I will install a green Volvo gasket with an Aisin water pump. Fingers crossed.

It looks like you got JB on the threads ... not good.

If you have some Acetone. Do this before it dries up. Dampen, not sopping wet, dampen a rag with the Acetone and wipe off any excess JB Weld. JB weld has one chemical weakness and it is Acetone. Acetone will will clean off JB Weld but you need to do so before it cures.

If you don't have a can of Acetone. Raid her cosmetics. Acetone is a a major ingredient in a lot of fingernail polishes. Some fingernail polishes are 100% Acetone.

Once cured there are only two ways to remove JB Weld. Heat 600° F or higher or grinding.

If you did not read this in time. Micro torch a spot then brush off with a wire brush. Do a spot at a time. You do not want to get the JB in the hole above 600° F. That would decompose and weaken the JB weld in the hole.

[wbrenegade420]

Then once smooth and dry, I will install a green Volvo gasket with an Aisin water pump. Fingers crossed.

It looks like you got JB on the threads ... not good.

If you have some Acetone. Do this before it dries up. Dampen, not sopping wet, dampen a rag with the Acetone and wipe off any excess JB Weld. JB weld has one chemical weakness and it is Acetone. Acetone will will clean off JB Weld but you need to do so before it cures.

If you don't have a can of Acetone. Raid her cosmetics. Acetone is a a major ingredient in a lot of fingernail polishes. Some fingernail polishes are 100% Acetone.

Once cured there are only two ways to remove JB Weld. Heat 600° F or higher or grinding.

If you did not read this in time. Micro torch a spot then brush off with a wire brush. Do a spot at a time. You do not want to get the JB in the hole above 600° F. That would decompose and weaken the JB weld in the hole.

I'm on it. My lady is grabbing the acetone for me as we speak.

[wbrenegade420]

Cleaned stud threads with pure acetone. Threads are nice, clean and shiny now!! Thanks again for the warning.

[RickHaleParker]

Cleaned stud threads with pure acetone. Threads are nice, clean and shiny now!! Thanks again for the warning.

Good news ... hope you got the mating surface while you where at it.

[jimmy57]

Get the best, flattest JB weld repair and then use Permatex Ultra Gray RTV sealer part number 82194. It will be about impossible to get gasket compression to seal a paper gasket. Let the RTV cure 24 hours after you bolt it up. I wouldn't worry about that bolt. The rigid RTV sealers are used extensively and often they cut bolt count almost in half for things that aren't structural. The pump acts as timing belt idler but that is not a high load. If you really feel you need that bolt then drill trhough and use a 1/4 inch bolt with nut or 6mm bolt with nut. In either case do not tighten that bolt much. The Ultra Grey will provide a good bond that will carry some load. Do not use too much. a 1/8 round bead between bolts and a smaller anount inside and outside the bolt hole (on the seal surface but mimicking the gasket being to the inside and outside of the flat gasket seal surface of pump) is all that is needed. Too much will risk some getting loose in cooling system.

[shiloh51933]

What happened? That doesn't look encouraging from the pic shown , do you have anymore pics?

[wbrenegade420]

My hat goes off to you RickHaleParker, your idea worked! The water pump is holding. And thank you to everyone else involved. I do have another , very mild, roadblock still. I am very confused about the way these cams are supposed to be.
Quick recap:
2006 s60R
Timing belt is off, crank mark is at its position, cam lock was not installed during removal of belt causing cams to rotate. The VVT hubs have not been messed with in anyway (aka the center bolt has not been touched at all). The exhaust cam gear was removed via the 3 8mm bolts to help in the removal of the rear timing cover and then installed at 'approximately' the same position (was going by eye so I say approx.).
Now, I believe I'm correct in saying that by aligning the aligned notches on the back of the cams even with the seam of the block and head, with one offset notch above the seam and one offset notch below, and the crank set at its mark, that the engine is perfectly on point??
If so, (which I'm pretty sure of), when I do that, I noticed that both cams have free travel/play to both left and right (reverse and forward) positions, and also, they are not spring loaded. Now, this is where the mass confusion comes in for me. Someone here advised me rotate cams CW, go past mark 1/2 turn, then turn CCW back to the correct mark ('mark' being more applied to evenly aligned notches since one of gears was moved slightly as mention earlier and is no longer credible), and then install t-belt.
Another member referenced a link to a video of the job, and in that video the guy explained how you have to make sure that when the cams 'aligned' that they should be at their 'resting' position (end of travel point) in the full 'forward' CW position, and the install the t-belt.
Somewhere else I read that you only need to do that if you are installing the VVT.
etc.
MOST NEEDED ADVICE:
So with all that, what I need to really know is how to set up the cam gears (the ones with the 3 8mm bolts)? Like their positioning via the slots?
And then, how do I go about installing the timing belt on this motor considering the dual VVT and the 'freeplay' in each cam?

[abscate]

I’m confused. If you have VVT on both cams you don’t have three m6 bolts holding the cams on, unless the 2006 R is completely different than any Volvo I’ve worked on

VVT cams are held on to the end of the cam with a huge Torx 45

Pictures needed

[jonesg]

I’m confused. If you have VVT on both cams you don’t have three m6 bolts holding the cams on, unless the 2006 R is completely different than any Volvo I’ve worked on

VVT cams are held on to the end of the cam with a huge Torx 45

Pictures needed

he's talking about the bolts holding cam sprocket to the vvt hubs, they are adjustable.
I'd leave them where they are and rotate the engine by hand, then see if it runs without codes getting set.
I believe those bolts are for when you are half a tooth off.
the center bolt on mine is T60.