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Well, this explains alot. Is this fixiable? Or did I just F*** myself??!!

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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jonesg
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Re: *UPDATE* Well, this explains alot. Is this fixiable? Or did I just F*** myself??!!

Post by jonesg »

wbrenegade420 wrote: 02 Oct 2020, 02:52 My hat goes off to you RickHaleParker, your idea worked! The water pump is holding. And thank you to everyone else involved. I do have another , very mild, roadblock still. I am very confused about the way these cams are supposed to be.
Quick recap:
2006 s60R
Timing belt is off, crank mark is at its position, cam lock was not installed during removal of belt causing cams to rotate. The VVT hubs have not been messed with in anyway (aka the center bolt has not been touched at all). The exhaust cam gear was removed via the 3 8mm bolts to help in the removal of the rear timing cover and then installed at 'approximately' the same position (was going by eye so I say approx.).
Now, I believe I'm correct in saying that by aligning the aligned notches on the back of the cams even with the seam of the block and head, with one offset notch above the seam and one offset notch below, and the crank set at its mark, that the engine is perfectly on point??
If so, (which I'm pretty sure of), when I do that, I noticed that both cams have free travel/play to both left and right (reverse and forward) positions, and also, they are not spring loaded. Now, this is where the mass confusion comes in for me. Someone here advised me rotate cams CW, go past mark 1/2 turn, then turn CCW back to the correct mark ('mark' being more applied to evenly aligned notches since one of gears was moved slightly as mention earlier and is no longer credible), and then install t-belt.
Another member referenced a link to a video of the job, and in that video the guy explained how you have to make sure that when the cams 'aligned' that they should be at their 'resting' position (end of travel point) in the full 'forward' CW position, and the install the t-belt.
Somewhere else I read that you only need to do that if you are installing the VVT.
etc.
MOST NEEDED ADVICE:
So with all that, what I need to really know is how to set up the cam gears (the ones with the 3 8mm bolts)? Like their positioning via the slots?
And then, how do I go about installing the timing belt on this motor considering the dual VVT and the 'freeplay' in each cam?
you can usually see where the cam sprocket bolts were previously, I'd try aligning it by referencing the old marks for the 3 bolts on the sprocket.

to install belt, rotate the cam hub backward and hold it as you pass the belt over the teeth, do one at a time, intake then exh.
Are there any marks to indicate the range ? Did anyone make reference mark before removing the sprocket?
I marked mine before removing the vvt hubs.
First mark is relative to the timing marks on the plastic cover, then remove belt and rotate cam backward and put a mark on the head, I painted the 2 marks on the head with touchup paint. Its easier if you paint marks on the back edge of the sprocket next to the head or is called cam cover.
Anyway, the second mark ended up being on the cvvt solenoid mounting boss.

If you didn't make those refernce marks before removing the sprocket then it might need to be set up from ground zero.
Someone did a complete write up on that , I recall his name being ford F150 ?
It was a very complete explanation but of course I can't find it.
Anyway, in that case you'd have to use the cam lock on the rear end of the cam shafts to get everything aligned from scratch.

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

wbrenegade420 wrote: 02 Oct 2020, 02:52 MOST NEEDED ADVICE:
So with all that, what I need to really know is how to set up the cam gears (the ones with the 3 8mm bolts)? Like their positioning via the slots?
And then, how do I go about installing the timing belt on this motor considering the dual VVT and the 'freeplay' in each cam?

Installing the variable valve timing unit on the camshaft

Note! Oil the center screw before installation
Note! Install cam lock on back of camshafts.

1. Push on the variable valve timing unit/timing gear pulley on the camshaft.
Install the center screw which secures the variable valve timing unit to the camshaft. Tighten slightly.

2. Slacken off, but do not remove the three screws which secure the timing gear pulley to the variable valve timing unit.
Turn the timing gear pulley until the screws at the oval holes are in the center position. Tighten the three screws slightly.

3. Turn the variable valve timing unit clockwise to its limit position so that the unit is in its end position.
Position the upper timing cover

4. Undo the center screw and continue turning clockwise until the timing gear pulley marking aligns with the marking on the upper timing cover.

5. Tighten the center screw in the variable valve timing unit. Tighten. See: Tightening torque:Summary of specific components and tightening torques .

6. Use zip ties or a universal cam lock that wedges the pulleys to hold the pulleys in place. This and the cam lock on the rear will keep it all in alignment .

Note! This type of Variable Valve Timing units does not have return springs and are easily thrown out of position when the Timing belt is installed. Check that the markings align before installing the timing belt.
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

wbrenegade420
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Joined: 19 September 2020
Year and Model: 2006 s60r
Location: USA
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Post by wbrenegade420 »

awesome!! thank u once again everyone. This is by far my favorite forum . And with all that advice, I'm off to install the belt. I'll be back with an update.

User avatar
RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

Torque Center screw to 120 Nm. (Step 5 above ).

After installing the timing belt:
Slacken off the 3 x screws.
Torque Center screw plugs to 35 Nm
Torque 3 x screws to 20 Nm while holding the plug at 25Nm.
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

wbrenegade420
Posts: 32
Joined: 19 September 2020
Year and Model: 2006 s60r
Location: USA
Has thanked: 8 times

Post by wbrenegade420 »

RickHaleParker wrote: 02 Oct 2020, 16:12
wbrenegade420 wrote: 02 Oct 2020, 02:52 MOST NEEDED ADVICE:
So with all that, what I need to really know is how to set up the cam gears (the ones with the 3 8mm bolts)? Like their positioning via the slots?
And then, how do I go about installing the timing belt on this motor considering the dual VVT and the 'freeplay' in each cam?

Installing the variable valve timing unit on the camshaft

Note! Oil the center screw before installation
Note! Install cam lock on back of camshafts.

1. Push on the variable valve timing unit/timing gear pulley on the camshaft.
Install the center screw which secures the variable valve timing unit to the camshaft. Tighten slightly.

2. Slacken off, but do not remove the three screws which secure the timing gear pulley to the variable valve timing unit.
Turn the timing gear pulley until the screws at the oval holes are in the center position. Tighten the three screws slightly.

3. Turn the variable valve timing unit clockwise to its limit position so that the unit is in its end position.
Position the upper timing cover

4. Undo the center screw and continue turning clockwise until the timing gear pulley marking aligns with the marking on the upper timing cover.

5. Tighten the center screw in the variable valve timing unit. Tighten. See: Tightening torque:Summary of specific components and tightening torques .

6. Use zip ties or a universal cam lock that wedges the pulleys to hold the pulleys in place. This and the cam lock on the rear will keep it all in alignment .

Note! This type of Variable Valve Timing units does not have return springs and are easily thrown out of position when the Timing belt is installed. Check that the markings align before installing the timing belt.

Do i need to do this even though the vvt hubs were never removed? Only one of the sprockets were removed and then placed back on.
because right now where I'm at is i have the crank mark on spot and the notches on the backs of the cams aligned with the head seam, one offset notch up the other down. If i lock those in place, the sprockets on the fronts of the cams were the belt goes both can freely rotate back and forth about 1/5th of a turn from lock to lock (im sure due to the vvt system and the way it works). Now, when installing the belt, do the cams (which are locked at alignment with the head still) need to be stopped at their forward locking positions? their rear locking position? in the middle of the freeplay travel? or ??

wbrenegade420
Posts: 32
Joined: 19 September 2020
Year and Model: 2006 s60r
Location: USA
Has thanked: 8 times

Post by wbrenegade420 »

jonesg wrote: 02 Oct 2020, 15:55
wbrenegade420 wrote: 02 Oct 2020, 02:52 My hat goes off to you RickHaleParker, your idea worked! The water pump is holding. And thank you to everyone else involved. I do have another , very mild, roadblock still. I am very confused about the way these cams are supposed to be.
Quick recap:
2006 s60R
Timing belt is off, crank mark is at its position, cam lock was not installed during removal of belt causing cams to rotate. The VVT hubs have not been messed with in anyway (aka the center bolt has not been touched at all). The exhaust cam gear was removed via the 3 8mm bolts to help in the removal of the rear timing cover and then installed at 'approximately' the same position (was going by eye so I say approx.).
Now, I believe I'm correct in saying that by aligning the aligned notches on the back of the cams even with the seam of the block and head, with one offset notch above the seam and one offset notch below, and the crank set at its mark, that the engine is perfectly on point??
If so, (which I'm pretty sure of), when I do that, I noticed that both cams have free travel/play to both left and right (reverse and forward) positions, and also, they are not spring loaded. Now, this is where the mass confusion comes in for me. Someone here advised me rotate cams CW, go past mark 1/2 turn, then turn CCW back to the correct mark ('mark' being more applied to evenly aligned notches since one of gears was moved slightly as mention earlier and is no longer credible), and then install t-belt.
Another member referenced a link to a video of the job, and in that video the guy explained how you have to make sure that when the cams 'aligned' that they should be at their 'resting' position (end of travel point) in the full 'forward' CW position, and the install the t-belt.
Somewhere else I read that you only need to do that if you are installing the VVT.
etc.
MOST NEEDED ADVICE:
So with all that, what I need to really know is how to set up the cam gears (the ones with the 3 8mm bolts)? Like their positioning via the slots?
And then, how do I go about installing the timing belt on this motor considering the dual VVT and the 'freeplay' in each cam?
you can usually see where the cam sprocket bolts were previously, I'd try aligning it by referencing the old marks for the 3 bolts on the sprocket.

to install belt, rotate the cam hub backward and hold it as you pass the belt over the teeth, do one at a time, intake then exh.
Are there any marks to indicate the range ? Did anyone make reference mark before removing the sprocket?
I marked mine before removing the vvt hubs.
First mark is relative to the timing marks on the plastic cover, then remove belt and rotate cam backward and put a mark on the head, I painted the 2 marks on the head with touchup paint. Its easier if you paint marks on the back edge of the sprocket next to the head or is called cam cover.
Anyway, the second mark ended up being on the cvvt solenoid mounting boss.

If you didn't make those refernce marks before removing the sprocket then it might need to be set up from ground zero.
Someone did a complete write up on that , I recall his name being ford F150 ?
It was a very complete explanation but of course I can't find it.
Anyway, in that case you'd have to use the cam lock on the rear end of the cam shafts to get everything aligned from scratch.
So your saying rotate the hubs backwards and then install the belt but the video i watched said to have the hubs at their 'forward' resting position and then install the belt. Im confused.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

easier seen than said.

wbrenegade420
Posts: 32
Joined: 19 September 2020
Year and Model: 2006 s60r
Location: USA
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Post by wbrenegade420 »

jonesg wrote: 03 Oct 2020, 10:31 easier seen than said.
This is the video I was talking about. He rotates them until they stop at their forward resting position and then installs belt. So i guess I'll try that.

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