3D Printable Fuel Cap Retaining Ring Tool

Post by **justanotherhumanoid** » 03 Oct 2020, 03:12

Hey gents, I'm planning a fuel pump replacement on my '06 S60 2.5T, and as I was reading this guide (viewtopic.php?f=9&t=67480) I realized a special tool is required to remove the pump retaining ring. Since the tool doesn't look like it needs to be super strong, I figured maybe I could 3D print one and save some $. I whipped up a draft in SolidWorks, but I was just working off images of the tool and I could use some exact measurements from someone that already has the tool (I'm not anywhere near my car and also don't own the tool or I'd take the measurements myself). I'll happily post the file here after I've updated it so that others can print them as well.

Here are the measurements I need:

Outer Diameter:
Inner Diameter:
Width of One of the Gaps:
Depth of the Gaps:
Overall Height of the Tool (or recommended height):

Here's the draft:

Thanks all. If anyone's willing to test one out, I'm curious if it'll hold up as is - I can add reinforcement to the teeth or the arms if needed.

Post by **cn90** » 03 Oct 2020, 07:43

The tool is $10 on ebay, made from steel.
I personally would not waste time to do the 3D printing for this tool.

Post by **- Pete -** » 03 Oct 2020, 08:17

Top plate where your 1/2” ratchet goes is 1/2” thick....aluminum. That’s welded to the “socket” which is made of 1/8” wall thickness aluminum. Each gap is .25” wide and .61” tall. Height of the socket only is 1.58”, 2.08” with the 1/2” top plate. Outer diameter is 4.51”, inner diameter is 4.23”.

A few members have made their own with 4” black sewer pipe/PVC.

My hesitation with the 3D printer is the 1/2” top plate ratchet hole not being able to withstand the torque needed to bust the collar loose. If that’s the case I think it would better to buy a cheap version. I know my red aluminum tool was $50, but they can be had at a fraction of that cost on eBay from China.

: B61F4989-40F8-44BD-AE6B-9F9FB6254A74.jpeg (86.5 KiB) Viewed 2626 times

Post by **cn90** » 03 Oct 2020, 08:50

I bought this tool on ebay a few yrs ago.
It fits many cars....

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Post by **oragex** » 03 Oct 2020, 10:51

The plastic ring is actually quite tight. Reason is there is a rubber seal sitting for 15 years and also it has to be tight to keep the vapors and relative pressure in summer time. Maybe the 'teeth' on the print too will hold, I think the problem will be at the socket hole. As pete says, the metal tools are strong enough, but if you make it with the 3d printer, make the part around the socket hole full, no gaps, and as thick as possible - 1/2" drive will also distribute the stress concentration better. Side note, I could open two plastic rings with a punch and hammer - careful not to crack the ring, it does damage a few tabs and it does need a lot of quite strong kicks at the bottom corner of the tabs. Obviously one may want to make sure first the PEM and FPS work properly (if equipped)

Post by **justanotherhumanoid** » 24 Nov 2020, 00:25

Thanks very much for the measurements and advice... after seeing some of the prices on ebay, I'll probably have a metal one on standby, but might try out my 3dp version just to see how it does. I'll post the file after I've tested it (might be a while). Thanks all!

Post by **chrism** » 24 Nov 2020, 17:51

How long do you figure it will take to print the 3D tool. Over night? I can see where somebody that needs to get their car back on the road as quickly as possible would opt to go with the 3D printed version rather than wait a week for a purchased one. However I agree that the 1/2” drive part is going to be the weak link. Maybe your design could incorporate a different, and rather beefy, way to apply the necessary torque required to crack the ring loose.

Post by **gnalan** » 25 Nov 2020, 09:04

If the left side retaining ring is seized on like mine was, and others that I have seen, plastic probably isn't going to work. I needed a 1/2" breaker bar and a hammer, using several heavy hits, to break mine loose. Others I've seen on YouTube used cheater bars, around 3 feet long, with the metal tool to break their retaining rings loose.

If you do use a 3d printed piece of plastic make sure you're wearing a face shield and gloves when you use it. I'm curious to see if it'll be strong enough or if it'll just shatter/break when you start applying torque to it.

Good luck. If it does work, and can be made cheaper than the metal tool, it might help save people some money. (Although I rented one from AutoZone, and returned it when I was done, so it didn't cost me anything.)

mikkosla · Post by **mikkosla** » 30 Jun 2021, 04:13

would you happen to have the 3dprint design available somewhere? I'd love to give it a go when my fuel sender finally arrives.

Post by **oragex** » 30 Jun 2021, 07:36

If you want to take a risk, you can try tapping on the locking ring, switch the tabs and hit in the corner of each tab.
Showing at around 3:00 - careful not to crack the ring itself and make sure you tighten back properly to seal vapors under pressure
(same should work for the metal ring on metal gas tanks_