Brake pedal position sensor replacement alternatives?

Post by **gnalan** » 14 Oct 2020, 16:53

I only see 3 brake position sensors on FCPEuro's website, and since my chassis number is under 035000 that only leaves me with one option: Volvo part number 9441116 for $147.34. Is there any other alternative to buying the factory part, or something I can do to my original sensor to fix it? I want/need my cruise control to work again.

I've had both ECM-941F and ECM-9400 codes together, and have had each code separately. I clear them from the ECM, recheck and have neither code, but after a drive when I check again I have either one or both codes stored. I thought with the updated software that things were changed to eliminate those codes, or at least one of them, since the time span was increased from 0.32 seconds to 10 seconds. Am I wrong about the programming change?

Post by **vtl** » 14 Oct 2020, 17:16

You can pull the sensor from junk yard car. Or open your own and try to fix it.

https://www.drive2.com/l/4898993/

Post by **gnalan** » 14 Oct 2020, 17:39

https://m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/356838/B ... -9441116A/

https://m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/443345/B ... or-370004/

Are either of these brands worth using?

Post by **vtl** » 14 Oct 2020, 18:50

ATE is who makes them.

goldxc70 · Post by **goldxc70** » 15 Oct 2020, 14:13

ATE is the OEM. I've never had issues with URO parts but many others seem to dislike them.

I had cruise control issues a few years back and this part was indicated as part of the problem. I took it apart to see if it was repairable. It's just a linear potentiomenter. If you pull off the connector, you can check if it's working or not by measuring resistance. Turned out my problem was in the BCM.

Post by **gnalan** » 16 Oct 2020, 11:17

I took mine out and brought it inside to test the resistance, since it was in the 40s this morning and I hate cold weather. I hooked my multimeter up to it and moved the rod in and out, and didn't get any readings at all. I swapped the two test leads and again no readings at all. Not sure why I couldn't get any form of resistance reading from it.

I ended up moving the pushrod around while moving it in and out, and rotating the sensor slowly a few times around, and tested it again. Still no resistance readings. I ended up putting it back into the brake booster, and hooked up my DiCE/VIDA. I was able to get readings from it that way, both percentage and voltage. Do these sensors just not show anything unless there's power hooked up to them?

I turned on the cruise control, and CRUISE came up on the dashboard so I left VIDA open, with my DiCE still connected to it, and drove around with the cruise control on. The sensor didn't have any problems, and everything worked ok. I don't know how long it'll work for before the ECM-9400 code comes back, but I'll update if it does.

Maybe spinning the senor around, and pushing the pushrod in and out like I did, was enough to get it working right, even if it is only temporary.

Does this only effect the cruise control, or does it effect the ABS too? Just curious if it would cause any other problems, or make the car unsafe to drive on the freeway at 70mph. I'd rather ask than to find out the hard way. I've got too much time, parts, and a lot of hard work, invested in the car just to end up in a wreck and have to scrap the car. I've already fallen in love with it, despite its many flaws, and I'm hoping to keep it for a long time.

Post by **vtl** » 16 Oct 2020, 11:30

Can you read the codes with VIDA and post the picture here? I've had a dying DEM that caused all sort of semi-random glitches on CAN network. Want to compare what you have with what I had.

Post by **gnalan** » 16 Oct 2020, 11:36

I don't have any ECM codes. Only codes for my siren (doesn't work so I have the fuse for it removed), left rear door lock too high (module needs replaced), and driver's side SIPS resistance too high (someone cut the wiring to the SIPS module).

Do you mean DIM (instrument cluster)?

Post by **vtl** » 16 Oct 2020, 11:41

No, DEM (Haldex). It has a direct link to BCM, when DEM takes the link down the BCM starts to "misbehave" and produce erratic codes.

I have a photo somewhere with a sub-millimeter SMD resistor in my hand: this what water corrosion ate inside the DEM, so it was not working properly.

Post by **gnalan** » 16 Oct 2020, 11:50

I only have FWD. I don't know anything about the AWD models.