Have a 2002 S60 Base non turbo that I can't get brake fluid to the passenger side calipers.. Both front and rear aren't getting any fluid whatsoever.. The driver side front and rear are fine.. Tried bleeding out the line but nothing, its like there is a clog in the line or something..
So did some basic troubleshooting..
Disconnected the lines from the abs manifold and blew them with compressed air.. No block also dry, no brake fluid came out..
Pulled the abs off the car but when doing so I noticed when I removed the brake lines from the aluminum block that only 2 were dripping brake fluid when removed.. The other two were dry..
So cleaned up the abs as best I could, regressed and remounted the pump motor and the abs module to the block.. Re bleed the MC and still no fluid coming out of these 2 brake like ports.. All bleeding and testing was done with engine off, so I assume the abs module shouldn't come into play, or maybe it is??
Circled the two culprit ports on the abs block that are giving me the issues.. I can't open the aluminum block so I'm kinda at a loss as to my next step..
Also I just got the car, and it came with this issue so I don't know when the last time it has working passenger side brakes..
Thanks
No fluid to passenger side brakes Topic is solved
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jimmy57
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Weird. I have seen single inlet port plug kill diagonal calipers (the circuit is two diagonals) and give high hard pedal but two like you have defies odds. The accumulator inside valve block is for each diagonal. You can get a used valve block of the same part number and swap your black module over and not have software mismatch- network problems. The module is held by E5 (male Torx) head bolts. At this point you might undo the lines and blow backwards but the fact it plugged and you do not know how long doesn't make that a great gamble.
- oragex
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Try first bleeding the block at those two lines. Have the nut just slightly tight, put a brick under press the brake pedal - to limit the travel to 2-3in otherwise it will damage the master cylinder, press the pedal and keep it there - either ask someone or block it with a bar against the seat. Release the nut just enough to hear air hissing (or fluid). Close the nut just enough, release the pedal, repeat.
If it doesn't help, as above, may want to swap the solenoid block, need to get one from a car with same DSTC or STC as yours, I suggest replacing the block alone- or maybe with the pump which is sometimes tricky to swap (top black cylinder), keep your electronic module. It's tricky to disconnect the module so may just unscrew it from the block. Once swapped, you will need to bleed the block the same way - not sure if the master will empty when disconnected. Use only Dot 4 Synthetic for European cars (must be written on the bottle for eu cars)
If it doesn't help, as above, may want to swap the solenoid block, need to get one from a car with same DSTC or STC as yours, I suggest replacing the block alone- or maybe with the pump which is sometimes tricky to swap (top black cylinder), keep your electronic module. It's tricky to disconnect the module so may just unscrew it from the block. Once swapped, you will need to bleed the block the same way - not sure if the master will empty when disconnected. Use only Dot 4 Synthetic for European cars (must be written on the bottle for eu cars)
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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jimmy57
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whenever a line is open on brake system and you don't want fluid to drain you stop this by depressing the brake pedal 1 inch or more. The piston seals are in front of the fill hole if the piston is pushed a short distance in bore and that stops the flow.
- abscate
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On a new to you car, it’s possible the 2 year brake fluid changes have been neglected and it’s hopelessly plugged up.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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