P80 front motor mount hardware tip 8631698

Post by **abscate** » 15 Apr 2020, 12:52

I just had a 2 hour epic battle with the four bolts on the motor mount

The two M8 x 23.5 987496 into the engine had severe corrosion in the boss in the mount. The M12s had severe corrosion in the threads in the subframe, probably because the bottom gets salt exposure.

The rearward ( car orientation ) M12x40 982841 is the real bad boy as access is hindered by the fuel one and axle shaft on the 1999. I managed to get two thread turns up then sprinkled holy water from the PBB church , and still was working full shoulder muscles on a 8 inch wrench

Pictures of the nasty boys to come

They cleaned with a Dremel and pick, and I antiseized them well.

Doing the timing belt job, I noticed with the balancer off, you get a good straight shot down at those nasty M10. With a good six point impact socket I could have made short work on those

Post by **abscate** » 16 Oct 2020, 06:32

View and access looking down during timing job

I cracked these easily with an impact an extension, greased them up, and reinstalled.

Post by **abscate** » 18 Oct 2020, 03:25

Chassis break on this part in 1999

ALTER 2 FC1; S70 CH -565000. FC2; S70 CH-566268, V70 CH -540000. (9209869)(9141257)

You can get a FEBI or Rein aftermarket for about $30 on the earlier part, the later part was Volvo only When I checked in 2019

The M10x 35 in to the block also show a chassis break at engine 1634069. Hmmm, part change but same size!

850oldschool · Post by **850oldschool** » 19 Oct 2020, 09:55

I'm confused. The four corroded bolts with the new Febi mount look like they're the same size. They all look like M8's to my eyeball.

I think I undid the bolts on this mount that go in the engine and shoved it over a little to get more room when I last did the timing belt on mine. Or maybe I've got that wrong. I've remembered a lot of stuff since then.

Post by **abscate** » 19 Oct 2020, 17:03

M8s go horizontally into the bracket and also from bracket into the block

M10s go vertically through the mount into inserts in the subframe

Post by **volvolugnut** » 19 Oct 2020, 17:29

Are you recommending a preventive maintenance step of removing and apply anti-sieze to these bolts during a timing belt job?
volvolugnut

Post by **abscate** » 19 Oct 2020, 17:34

volvolugnut wrote: ↑19 Oct 2020, 17:29 Are you recommending a preventive maintenance step of removing and apply anti-sieze to these bolts during a timing belt job?
volvolugnut

Absolutely. It might be easier on -1998 but 1999- it’s really tight to access these.

I just did this on the Grunhilde build as I had it all apart. It was real easy access with the belt and water pump out. Bolt out, grease up, bolt back in.

Post by **abscate** » 27 Apr 2022, 05:14

Speculation. It might be possible to swap between the chassis break parts by replacing both the rubber mount and the metal mount that attaches to the engine.

This is not confirmed.

Post by **ZionXIX** » 27 Apr 2022, 11:03

abscate wrote: ↑27 Apr 2022, 05:14 Speculation. It might be possible to swap between the chassis break parts by replacing both the rubber mount and the metal mount that attaches to the engine.

This is not confirmed.

That would be nice as the metal will last a lot longer than the rubber portion. This would also make it easier to source if a part is on backorder.

Post by **ZionXIX** » 27 Apr 2022, 11:13

Has anyone clean the rubber portion away to see what shape the metal piece is?