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Oil recommendation

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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SuperHerman
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Re: Oil recommendation

Post by SuperHerman »

Some more advice - every gas fill or two pull the oil stick and check the color of the oil as well as its level. This will give you an idea on whether the engine has been properly maintained. It should remain pretty clean for at least 1000 miles, so 3-5 gas fills. Level should not really drop. After that it the oil will get progressively darker, but should not be black. If you find it is fairly dirty at 1000 miles - shorten your oil change interval to 3000 miles (or less if it is really dirty). If it looks good most people that own, rather than lease, change at around 5000 miles on synthetic. As I posted earlier, the oil is washing away crud as it circulates. If the oil was never changed you will have more crud and the oil will get dirtier faster. It may take 2-5 oil changes to get things to normal.

If all looks good when you pull the stick - chances are your engine is in good shape and has been maintained.

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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

oragex wrote: 17 Oct 2020, 14:10 since your are in San Diego I'd stay with a 5W-40... not the 'high mileage ones'.
+1 on the 5W-40 and no high mileage stuff.

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Post by MoVolvos »

Shinotheweevil wrote: 17 Oct 2020, 18:57 Alright. Thanks you guys! After reading all this I decide to go with synthetic and I was able to do the oil change. Fairly simple except the oil filter housing, which was stuck on. Very dirty oil, the old owner must have never changed it at all. But thanks to everyone, it gave me confidence to actually do this.
What are your initial thoughts on the engine feel with the Synthetic? Would you mind sharing which brand and which weight oil. By the way, what filter did you use?

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Shinotheweevil
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Post by Shinotheweevil »

I used 5w-40 castrol full synthetic. I'm using just a regular STP filter, but I'm planning to change it again at 3000 because the old oil was not in good condition. But when the oil looks in better shape I'll switch to the mahle filter. The engine feels more responsive and a little quieter. Also I can tell the previous oil was very bad because the engine seems a lot cooler under the hood. It was unbearable prior. But that could just be me haha.

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Post by MoVolvos »

Shinotheweevil wrote: 18 Oct 2020, 11:38 I used 5w-40 castrol full synthetic. I'm using just a regular STP filter, but I'm planning to change it again at 3000 because the old oil was not in good condition. But when the oil looks in better shape I'll switch to the mahle filter. The engine feels more responsive and a little quieter. Also I can tell the previous oil was very bad because the engine seems a lot cooler under the hood. It was unbearable prior. But that could just be me haha.
You've got the idea now. San Diego has moderate weather so unless you are always in stop and go you can change it out once a year or every six months depending on the number of miles driven. Just use the Mahle on the next change. Difference is less than an IN-n-Out combo. Miss those burgers!

Whether from Texas or CA, I use to buy around 8 Double Doubles and freeze them overnight before boarding the next day for home in NC. Just left out the lettuce. My kids and neighbors loved it.

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kallekula
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Post by kallekula »

I always run fully synthetic, always. Its about the same price as dino since it lasts longer. Usually buy Mobil 1 Full Synth or O'reillys own brand, also fully synthetic.

BMW 540i 2002
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SuperHerman
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Post by SuperHerman »

STP filters are sub-par on a good day. You have it backwards. Use a quality filter to clean your engine, and cheap but properly rated oil. In my mind, with the price of parts at the site sponsors, it makes no sense to save $2 and buy a sub-par filter. Plan and bundle up purchase for free shipping.

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Post by oragex »

Shinotheweevil wrote: 18 Oct 2020, 11:38 I used 5w-40 castrol full synthetic. I'm using just a regular STP filter, but I'm planning to change it again at 3000 because the old oil was not in good condition. But when the oil looks in better shape I'll switch to the mahle filter. The engine feels more responsive and a little quieter. Also I can tell the previous oil was very bad because the engine seems a lot cooler under the hood. It was unbearable prior. But that could just be me haha.
3000 miles is too much for the first filter after switching to synth. Even 1000 miles might be too much. The synth will remove a lot of deposits from inside the engine. You can replace the filter only without draining the oil. MANN, OEQ, Mahle are good brands (Fcpeuro.com). I think OEQ makes the genuine Volvo but that may change

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Post by MoVolvos »

oragex wrote: 20 Oct 2020, 16:57
Shinotheweevil wrote: 18 Oct 2020, 11:38 I used 5w-40 castrol full synthetic. I'm using just a regular STP filter, but I'm planning to change it again at 3000 because the old oil was not in good condition. But when the oil looks in better shape I'll switch to the mahle filter. The engine feels more responsive and a little quieter. Also I can tell the previous oil was very bad because the engine seems a lot cooler under the hood. It was unbearable prior. But that could just be me haha.
3000 miles is too much for the first filter after switching to synth. Even 1000 miles might be too much. The synth will remove a lot of deposits from inside the engine. You can replace the filter only without draining the oil. MANN, OEQ, Mahle are good brands (Fcpeuro.com). I think OEQ makes the genuine Volvo but that may change
-

Agree, after the first or two short interval flush changes it's okay to go 6 months to a year depending on mileage and driving conditions.

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2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior

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Post by SuperHerman »

Two items. First, the oil filter captures crud in the engine that gets suspended in the oil. If one had an oil filter that could provide full flow and capture 100% or all particles in the oil the oil should not darken. The reason to change the oil would be because the oil molecules breakdown due to cycling/usage.

So if one wants to clean an engine that is known to be dirty - the oil filter is highly critical to change. It is capturing crud, so even though the oil may be clean, the oil filter may not be and/or it will start to clog up. The filter is nothing more than a fine paper screen, like a coffee filter, at some point too many grounds will be on the filter nothing will drip through.

Second, all oils that meet manufacturer specs, whether synthetic or not, are suitable for cleaning an engine under normal operating conditions. If one is cleaning an engine synthetic is not necessarily needed if the change interval is 1000 miles. Normal oil will not break down, under normal operating conditions, within 1000 miles.

Optimal would be to use high quality synthetic oil and an high quality oil filter and change them both at the same time. Most expensive option. Next level would be use the cheapest oil, that meets specs, and an high quality filter and change them both. My understanding, if the oil is not black or significantly discolored (assuming normal usage) it would be better to change the filter than the oil.

In one of my prior posts it was recommended to check the oil condition via the dipstick every gas fill - if it pulls out clean after 3-4 gas fills (about 1000 miles) then the engine is not in bad shape. Hence forth, normal change intervals can be followed.

Some will change their oil at 5k (recommended 10k interval), and change the filter every other time. The filter is designed (in this 10k example) to provide proper filtering up to 10k miles. I don't really see the wisdom of this, but it doesn't hurt.

The take away is to examine the oil, know your vehicle and adjust to weather change oil change requirements.

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