'89 740 B230F (USA spec) wont start.

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 05 Mar 2008, 11:27

Yeah, I turned it over today and it wouldn't start although the tach does move! Man am I loosing the will to live here!
I have a Clifford alarm on the car. I didn't fit it, I don't use it, I don't want it. I remember working for a guy and when we drove home in his van this sort of thing happened. The engine would start and run for about 30 seconds then cut. When the rescue guys came there was a problem with the immobiliser. Do you think it could be the Clifford and, if so, are they easy to remove? I live in rural Provence and I really don't see any need for it.

Post by **jonesg** » 05 Mar 2008, 13:23

yep, it could be the alarm too.
Mine goes wonky sometimes and the horn starts beeping as I drive.

I don't know how to remove them.

Post by **billofdurham** » 05 Mar 2008, 15:36

Have you checked the on-board diagnostic unit, socket 6, for fault codes on the ignition system? If there is a fault in the RPM sensor circuit it should throw code 2-1-4.

This does not necessarily mean the sensor is faulty, it could be a wiring fault.

To test further switch off the ignition, disconnect the ECU connector and remove the protective sleeve. Connect an ohmmeter between terminals 10 (red wire) and 23 (blue wire). Resistance should be 215-265. If resistance is not within specs check the wiring. If the wiring is OK check the sensor.

As for the Clifford alarm it would be very difficult to remove successfully without a wiring diagram. Unless it is proved to be causing the problem then it is best left alone.

Bill.

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 06 Mar 2008, 10:25

I have followed the on-board diagnosis and I'm pretty sure it threw up a 1-1-1.
I'll try again but I am suspicious that, between not starting and then starting and running for a few seconds each crank I have only disconnected and reconnected the RPM sensor. I kinda hope it's as clear as that.
I was told to check the resistance in sensor. between the centre and outer pins should be 160 ohms. I got 450 on one and zip on the other. Does this sound wrong to you?

Post by **billofdurham** » 06 Mar 2008, 12:21

between the centre and outer pins should be 160 ohms. I got 450 on one and zip on the other. Does this sound wrong to you?

Definitely.

Bill.

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 12 Mar 2008, 06:08

Guys,
I'm sorry to be a continued P.i.t.A! My problems continue and it's really getting me down now. I understand if you have had enough of all this but if you can possibly throw some light on the latest revelations I would be grateful. I have replaced the crank sensor and it's still no go.
I have run through the self diagnosis procedure https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... c&start=12
and everything checks out except the control function No. 2. When I follow the instructions and hold the throttle fully open the led flashes rapidly. Then I opened up the ECU connector and I couldn't see a connection at terminal 3, it was empty. Leaving the testing I carried on until No. 8 where I turn off the ignition and the led should flash repeatedly in response to the A/C - nada! There was no flash of any kind. I stopped at this point for fear of brain overheat! Control function No. 3 was OK.
There is a "check engine" light illuminated on the dash - Quel Suprise!
Do I just put a match to the old bus? I do hope not as I am so broke I have no alternative than to get her running. Oh life can be cruel!
My grateful thanks again.

Post by **jonesg** » 12 Mar 2008, 07:34

The CEL indicates you have a stored fault code, what is the code?

After writing all the fault codes down clear the codes from the computer.

To me, an engine that will not start (fire) is easier to dianose than intermittent problems.

I find it very simple to pull the bellows at the airbox end, give it a 5 second blast of ether, reconnect and try cranking it, if it runs the ether out then dies its fuel related. A bit of grease inside the bellow lip makes slipping it on and off quick and ez.

If it doesn't run til the ether is gone, (doesn't fire up at all) its spark.

Post by **billofdurham** » 12 Mar 2008, 16:30

I agree with jonesg.

everything checks out except the control function No. 2.

You have found a change in the procedure from '89 to '92. The '89 is wired to terminal 2 not 3. Sorry about that but I haven't checked every word for each year.

Here is the section for the '89 model:

Bill.

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 13 Mar 2008, 06:28

Thanks Bill, I'll take another look at that. I did notice yesterday that if I "blip" the key it tries to start. If I use the normal length of start with the key there's nothing. Maybe the ignition switch is ****ed?

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 13 Mar 2008, 06:35

I ran through the self diagnosis tests as per https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... c&start=12
and it said that if there were no faults with the throttle switch I would have a code: 3-3-3. If the led flashes repeatedly (which it does) I should "see proceedures in - D ADJUSTMENTS article in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE section, and go to the next step." I'm not familiar with it. As I said, the codes all came up trumps except this one which I understand means there might be a problem with the throttle switch - what is/where is the throttle switch and how do I check it?#
Any ideas? I'm off now to buy some Ether (if I can find out the French for Ether!) and try your advised trick.
Thanks guys.