DIY: 1998 V70 Axle CV Rubber Boots Tips/Tricks

[Cookeh]

Thanks, both. Good to know I won't lose much fluid, though I suppose an excuse to do a drain and fill wouldn't go amiss. I've seen split boots plenty times, but never heard much positive feedback. If others have had success then it may be worth a try as they certainly save some effort.

The other alternative is stretch boots, but I really don't trust those and they require removal of the axle from the hub anyway.

[erikv11]

I've never done it on the car but it sounds like more trouble than it is worth. Removing the axle is one of the easier parts.

With the front on jackstands, same level both sides, you lose about a half quart of trans fluid by pulling the axle.

What I like to do is treat axle work as a good time to do a partial fluid exchange. Raise the front, put it level on stands, then pull the trans fluid drain plug. It will drain almost exactly 3.5 quarts. Then replace the plug and pull the axle and do that part of the job. After replacing the axle you can add 3.5 quarts back at the end so the level will be the same as when you started.

[xHeart]

I like to replace the seal when I pull an axle, unless I know it is relatively new.

You don't have to buy the Volvo brand to get quality on this part, it is just a rebranded SKF axle seal
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-a ... al-6843112

+1

[erikv11]

I like to replace the seal when I pull an axle, unless I know it is relatively new.

You don't have to buy the Volvo brand to get quality on this part, it is just a rebranded SKF axle seal
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-a ... al-6843112

+1

Actually there is a mistake there, the factory axle seal is not from SKF - it is from Corteco!!

I am unable to edit my old post from 2014, update it to say Corteco.

[Cookeh]

Part number for the manual seal is 6843481, still available new from Volvo in the EU. They are also Corteco seals, with a manufacturer part number of 01034065B.

[Cookeh]

Some notes to add to the pile. In the case of manual cars, with the car jacked up and supported with an axle stand under the front subframe bolt you shouldn't lose any fluid. I also found that the axle was just a friction fit in the gearbox (MY96 850 T5 M56H), so a few taps on the bearing cap should free it up. For refitting it should push in with relative ease. Do not over-tighten the 12mm bolts on the bearing cap, torque spec is only 25nm (18 ft lbs).

More generally, for outer CV boot replacement, it would appear as if marking the position of the outer CV joint and the axle is unneccessary - instead you should mark the order of the balls (paint, not a file!) relative to the cage - they are the balanced parts and the parts that wear.