V8 Balance Shaft

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 04 Dec 2020, 20:48

Awesome info, Bob! My only concern though about this method, isn't the CBS supported by the rear bearing? Would the shaft be able to move once the bearing it out? I haven't disassembled one of these engines to this extent. Close, but not that much.

Huh, that's interesting about the intake manifold. I feel I remember hearing a similar noise to that on my mom's V8. I'll have to check out that servo in the intake.

Post by **ggleavitt** » 07 Dec 2020, 10:49

See photo below for the anti-tamper Torx on the rear bearing saddle-

: CB Bearing Torx Antitamper_B8444S.jpg (31.53 KiB) Viewed 2283 times

: VOR V8 weephole .jpg (14.59 KiB) Viewed 2277 times

And my recently purchased '06 Ocean Race V8, Engine #16403 with the drilled drain hole. As noted in the photos earlier in this thread, my '08 Sport V8 engine #32604 does not have a drilled hole, only a casting impression. This engine has no casting impression, just a drilled hole.

bobsepe · Post by **bobsepe** » 29 Dec 2020, 04:07

The problem is not that the water collects above the CBS cover plate, but within the cavity. The weep hole has to be inside the cavity.. water intrusion can be eliminated by sealing the plate to the cavity with form-a-gasket. The local Volvo dealer tried drilling a hole in a casting and managed to penetrate the block to create a problem. Therefore, I prefer the seal approach.

Post by **oragex** » 29 Dec 2020, 14:21

How about a twist socket bolt extractor ? It could fit over the anti-tamper bolt head

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 29 Dec 2020, 23:17

oragex wrote: ↑29 Dec 2020, 14:21 How about a twist socket bolt extractor ? It could fit over the anti-tamper bolt head

I’ve had success with this method on other stripped torx bolts before. Hammer on the socket that tightly fits and gently apply torque to it. Both Irwin and Gearwrench make excellent extractor sockets.

bobsepe · Post by **bobsepe** » 01 Jan 2021, 10:37

Good idea.... if it is unable to grab the head.. because these things usually grab the entire shft.. I'd cut/drill off the tamper proof head, pull the bearing retainer up for removal, then use the stud extractor to remove the fastener shaft. Either way, it is necessary to remove both heads..

Post by **ggleavitt** » 17 Jan 2022, 16:57

Adding a photo to this thread for those doing valve cover gaskets. Photo belongs to a guy on Swedespeed who recently did the timing cover gaskets and seals on an S80 V8 in addition to valve cover and PCV. The red colored areas noted are the common seep/leak points for the timing cover (my crank seal seeps also). Right side of the cover is the firewall side of the motor for orienatation

: Timing Cover B8444S DPD.jpg (171.25 KiB) Viewed 1066 times

My '08 is pretty much dry in the noted areas but for my Ocean Race, it's quite the opposite. Having purchased the vehicle with a wet motor on the bottom at 135k miles, I automatically assumed the seeps would be resolved by new seals gaskets up top. Nope. I'm going back in at some point in the very near future to do the valve cover reseal all over again (covers need to come off for the front cover to seat properly). I have all the parts needed to do the work, just need to find the time.

At any rate I had thought to add this photo as I'm hoping it'll help folks to determine the extent of their leaks before arbitrarily assuming that just the covers need resealed.

Post by **Roger_850T** » 17 Jan 2022, 17:49

Thanks for sharing this! Mine is leaking a bit again, although I'm not sure where. Bottom of the engine is a little wet at oil change time, but still haven't pinpointed the source. Maybe the bottom firewall side of the timing cover, although that was all clean when I recently did the alternator, and alternator was dry, so maybe not. It almost looks like it's coming from between the engine case sections, which will probably NOT get fixed if it really is the source. Ah well.

Roger

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 17 Jan 2022, 18:34

I've been putting off resealing the upper oil pan for some time now. Still no plans to knock that out any time soon lol. It's a very small leak. Timing cover and valve covers doing fine. At least the last time I checked... I don't even want to know, really

.

bobsepe · Post by **bobsepe** » 18 Jan 2022, 06:41

Filling the cavity with grease... remove knock sensor on right whilst standing in front of the vehicle looking inward, works when the bearing has not failed... when the bearing cover fails, the grease in the cavity will provide some lubrication.

If the bearing has failed, knocking noise, the grease will allow you to drive gingerly at the lowest rpm, the counterbalance shaft will wobble as the inner shaft bearing race will collide with the outer shaft bearing race. Failure to replace the bearing will result in catestrophic engine failure. As the shaft wobbles, the timing chain bounces around on the counterbalance shaft. It'll jump a link and the valves will collide with the pistons, bending the valves.

There is no getting around the need to replace the bearing. I did this myself in the driveway... using a motorcycle jack to drop the engine/tranny subframe to the floor and a floor jack to raise the car body above the engine to achieve clearance to pull the whole subframe forward so I could work on it. I did this over the course of 2 months working 4-5 hours a day... (I'm 79). A younger guy should be able to do it in a week or two.

I made a 2 hour video on how to do this. email me at [email protected].

This is not rocket science, if it were, I'd be on my way to Mars.

V8 Balance Shaft

Re: V8 Balance Shaft