[2001 V70 2.4T] Occasional coolant reservoir boilover

[prwood]

If you aren’t keeping pressure in your cooling system the BP of the glycol water mix will be about 220F, so that might be the answer here. With pressure, temps up to 260F will be ok.

Sounds like you need to deal with that small pcv hose. I just got home from travel last night. Will measure this morning

I think that makes sense. Honestly if you look back in my forum threads I've been dealing with one cooling system issues for the past several years, so it doesn't surprise me that this is happening again. I appreciate anything you're able to figure out with respect to the hose. Do you know if standard worm clamps are acceptable for that, or if I need to use oetiker clamps? The existing hose seems to use oetiker.

The next step will be to figure out how to replace it with the least amount of disassembly. It seems like I'd probably at least need to take off the strut tower crossmember and the hard tube going from the MAF sensor to the turbo in order to get access to it. Not sure if there's other stuff in the way. Then it's a matter of snipping the hose clamps, replacing the hose and re-clamping. Also not sure how much coolant to expect to drain from that area when the hose is removed.

[abscate]

Picture dump

It's thick 10 mm hose with a 11mm ridge in the hard pipe

[prwood]

Picture dump

It's thick 10 mm hose with a 11mm ridge in the hard pipe

Can you measure the inner diameter of the hose?

Do I need a certain type of hose material for coolant? i.e. would vacuum hose work if I had the right size, or does it have to be specifically for coolant?

I'm wondering if this is the same type and size of hose as the return line for the coolant reservoir? If it is, I'm wondering if I can steal a bit of that line and use it to replace this, or if it's a different size/type of material.

[abscate]

It is 9 mm inside diameter. That is some serioulsy thick hose

[prwood]

It is 9 mm inside diameter. That is some serioulsy thick hose

Think this one would work? 3/8” is roughly equivalent to 9mm ID:

Vibrant Performance 20425 Heater Hose Black, 3/8 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BT1B8AU/re ... -FbPR2MMY1

[abscate]

Use oetiker clamps to put it together, and you will either need to re-route it or buy fittings to make that complicated shape. I would go the re-route route.

[prwood]

Use oetiker clamps to put it together, and you will either need to re-route it or buy fittings to make that complicated shape. I would go the re-route route.

Do you think it needs to be the same length as the original?

[abscate]

Use oetiker clamps to put it together, and you will either need to re-route it or buy fittings to make that complicated shape. I would go the re-route route.

Do you think it needs to be the same length as the original?

Not important

[prwood]

Use oetiker clamps to put it together, and you will either need to re-route it or buy fittings to make that complicated shape. I would go the re-route route.

Do you think it needs to be the same length as the original?

Not important

Alrighty. So the next step is to figure out how to get in there and do the replacement with minimal fuss. I don't want to have to take the intake manifold off and completely remove the PCV hose assembly in order to replace this elbow.

I can touch the hose if I reach back along the firewall behind the turbo, but there's no way I can work with it that way. There's a rat's nest of stuff in the way which I think I'm going to have to move/remove in order to get access to it, and even then, I have doubts about whether my oetiker clamp pliers will be able to reach down there in order to pinch off the clamps once everything is in place. In that respect, worm clamps with a long extension might make it easier to work with, but they probably aren't acceptable.

O'Reilly seems to have some hose at a reasonable price which I think would work (rated for coolant/heater usage with a 9mm ID):

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/sa ... hose&pos=0

Looks roughly the same as the photos abscate had included:

Screen Shot 2021-01-11 at 2.26.18 PM.png (221.54 KiB) Viewed 978 times

Here are some photos of the area with things I think I"ll need to remove or move marked in red. The general area of the component is marked in green (like the color of the coolant that's leaking from it):

- Strut mount crossmember
- Charge air pipe
- Top engine mount
- Side engine carrier plate (straddled by top engine mount)
- Fresh air pipe to turbo
- Cables from fuse box and positive terminal

(FWIW: I viewed these photos in a color blindness simulator (https://www.color-blindness.com/coblis- ... simulator/), and apparently it should only be an issue if you have Red-Blind/Protanopia or Green-Blind/Deuteranopia, in which case the red will appear as a light yellow and the green will appear as a darker/more bold yellow...)

Also I'll need a day that's not freezing cold to spend several hours working in the driveway...

Let me know if anyone has thoughts on strategy.

[abscate]

You can get the oetikers nipped with end on nipping pliers as opposed to dikes or side ons

The Dremel tool you ordered for Christmas should arrive soon, you touch that to the existing oetikers for 13 seconds to remove that. Use the fiberglass reinforced discs. Don’t try to trim your nails with that, it hurts