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Tips on removing the head on a -99 v70 2.5t

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Eliotlm
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Re: Tips on removing the head on a -99 v70 2.5t

Post by Eliotlm »

abscate wrote: 12 Jan 2021, 05:27 Solid hubs are easy , three m6 flange bolts , and the hub is indexed to only go on three ways. Mark it with a punch or use the rear cam slot to get the right position

CVVT hubs have a large torx bit, a T55 torqued to about 90 ft lbs. that’s really tight.

A 1999 v70 T will have exhaust only CVVT

The four seals will cost $20 total and replacing them whenever the cam cover is removed is prudent practice

Replacing the 5 orings that seal the spark plug chambers is also prudent.
Do I need to take both the sprockets of or can i leave Them on?

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wizechatmgr
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Post by wizechatmgr »

Eliotlm wrote: 12 Jan 2021, 08:25
abscate wrote: 12 Jan 2021, 05:27 Solid hubs are easy , three m6 flange bolts , and the hub is indexed to only go on three ways. Mark it with a punch or use the rear cam slot to get the right position

CVVT hubs have a large torx bit, a T55 torqued to about 90 ft lbs. that’s really tight.

A 1999 v70 T will have exhaust only CVVT

The four seals will cost $20 total and replacing them whenever the cam cover is removed is prudent practice

Replacing the 5 orings that seal the spark plug chambers is also prudent.
Do I need to take both the sprockets of or can i leave Them on?
Both must come off to replace the cam seals.
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In order to learn how to fix something, you must first learn how to break it.
1999 V70 XC AWD 2.4 T -- ~231k miles
1998 V70 2.4 NA -- ~184k miles

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FLXC90
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Post by FLXC90 »

The tool bolts to the head in such a way that it supporrts the cams, there is a plate to "carry " the front cam snouts. That way, the cams rise straight up with the cover. Look at the picyures in the ads for the tool on amazon or ebay.
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1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)

Eliotlm
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Post by Eliotlm »

FLXC90 wrote: 12 Jan 2021, 19:50 The tool bolts to the head in such a way that it supporrts the cams, there is a plate to "carry " the front cam snouts. That way, the cams rise straight up with the cover. Look at the picyures in the ads for the tool on amazon or ebay.
I bougt a toolkit with the locking Tool going on the back of the cams, but there were some other things in there which maybe the things you är talkinh about, thank you!

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Post by Eliotlm »

wizechatmgr wrote: 12 Jan 2021, 12:28
Eliotlm wrote: 12 Jan 2021, 08:25
abscate wrote: 12 Jan 2021, 05:27 Solid hubs are easy , three m6 flange bolts , and the hub is indexed to only go on three ways. Mark it with a punch or use the rear cam slot to get the right position

CVVT hubs have a large torx bit, a T55 torqued to about 90 ft lbs. that’s really tight.

A 1999 v70 T will have exhaust only CVVT

The four seals will cost $20 total and replacing them whenever the cam cover is removed is prudent practice

Replacing the 5 orings that seal the spark plug chambers is also prudent.
Do I need to take both the sprockets of or can i leave Them on?
Both must come off to replace the cam seals.
Thank you! But when i've locked the cams to the camcover aswell as in the back, is it safe to take Off the sprockets? And so you have any tips on how i should reinstall them?

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Post by abscate »

On the locking tool..

The screws don’t need to be more than finger tight. The cam lock tool does all the work keeping the cams from turning , not the screws. A couple of people here have over tightened or had silver cheese screws which snapped off in the cam. Ugly.

If the cam cover doesn’t come off easily, you are making the same mistake this guy did. :D 46 out of 47 screws doesn’t count.



Lift the cams straight up,from ends so you don’t stress the cam flanges on the head.

There is a two piece tool to squeeze the cam cover back on straight but most just use four of the M6 bolts going down one or two turns at a time and this works fine.
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Post by Eliotlm »

abscate wrote: 13 Jan 2021, 04:53 On the locking tool..

The screws don’t need to be more than finger tight. The cam lock tool does all the work keeping the cams from turning , not the screws. A couple of people here have over tightened or had silver cheese screws which snapped off in the cam. Ugly.

If the cam cover doesn’t come off easily, you are making the same mistake this guy did. :D 46 out of 47 screws doesn’t count.



Lift the cams straight up,from ends so you don’t stress the cam flanges on the head.

There is a two piece tool to squeeze the cam cover back on straight but most just use four of the M6 bolts going down one or two turns at a time and this works fine.

Again, thank you, you've Always answered My threads and it has helped alot! So i put the sprockets on the marks, lock the cams from beyond, undo the belt and sprockets, undo the screws to the cam cover and then i screw in the Tool onto the camcover, then lift?

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Post by abscate »

Ive just removed the cam cover screws, gently tap the cover on the lugs to pop it up, go back and find the one I missed, then it just pops up.

On installation, Volvo calls for you to use an expensive two part tool that threads into the spark plug holes but you dont need that per the post above, Just use four of the M6 and go nice and slow.

Even a biologist can do it, its that simple.
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Post by Eliotlm »

abscate wrote: 13 Jan 2021, 08:12 Ive just removed the cam cover screws, gently tap the cover on the lugs to pop it up, go back and find the one I missed, then it just pops up.

On installation, Volvo calls for you to use an expensive two part tool that threads into the spark plug holes but you dont need that per the post above, Just use four of the M6 and go nice and slow.

Even a biologist can do it, its that simple.
In what holes should i screw it into? Just any of the central cam cover Bolt holes?

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Post by abscate »

I used two in between cylinders 1-2 and 2 in between 4-5
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