Best Solvent or Lubricant to spray into Ignition Key Hole? Topic is solved

Post by **plumsmooth** » 29 Jan 2021, 13:36

Pardon me for creating another post but I think it is a good question.
I might have some moisture stuck in and freezing my tumblers in my ignition.
There are so many choices here can someone please suggest and maybe make the case for the best choice?

Seems if it is moisture than a product that would displace any moisture would be ideal.

Key will not turn at all. Never had a problem. Was just working fine. Coldest night of the year...

Post by **Blacklab467** » 29 Jan 2021, 13:41

I would use a blow dryer before I would spray anything into the ignition.

Post by **plumsmooth** » 29 Jan 2021, 13:45

Good point! I have a Wagner Heat Gun looks like a Blow Dryer. Should I just aim it at the keyhole.
And if this works, what would I do to prevent this happening in the future?

And could this mean that the Cylinder is on its way out?

Post by **MoVolvos** » 29 Jan 2021, 14:05

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Silicone spray is not sticky, won't accumulate crud besides dispelling moisture.

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Post by **MoVolvos** » 29 Jan 2021, 14:07

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Dielectric grease is silicone grease and some being USDA approved for food contract so it's used in faucet assemblies.

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Post by **SuperHerman** » 29 Jan 2021, 15:00

This is a tricky question. I will tell you what I found on a Range Rover lock tumbler I battled. Symptoms were the key would not turn - it would go in but would not turn. It was not frozen. I sprayed various solvents in there with no success. I removed the assembly, placed it on my bench and bought a special lock pick tool. I watched countless videos and did everything "right" to get it to open. It would not work - I could visually see the problem pins were stuck. Each pin had a spring and a machined chamber to travel - that is how locks work.

Ultimately I ordered a generic Chinese BMW tumbler with the idea of re-keying it to my original key and replacing the tumbler. At the time BMW made the part used by Range Rover, but the item I bought had a different key set.

I had to use a Dremel tool to cut the casting so I could remove the tumbler components and figure out the proper pins needed to work with the new tumbler. In the end I was successful. I rekeyed the BMW tumbler and carried over the parts to make it fit on my Range Rover.

What I found as the failure point was that certain pins had frozen in place due to crud and natural oxidation - that is why the key nor the pick would work. Once open I could use a pick tool and solvent to free the pins. It took time and effort.

The point is what ever you spray in there may cause the problem to get worse. The water that is frozen will cause issues of some type as the water is a liquid and will carry debris with it. Any "cleaner", even residue free, will displace crud and grease which ultimately will cause issues.

The real fix is to get it to function and take it apart, clean everything correctly and grease as required (if at all). The approach I would take is to hit it with heat from an hair dryer/heat gun until it moves freely. Keep wiping off the key to remove moisture and try to dry the tumbler out as best as possible. Then keep an eye on it and if you notice it is getting worse go for a dismantle and rebuild. Usually it doesn't get as bad as my Range Rover did, but it had a very dusty life in the Dakotas for a number of years. Most likely you will not have any issues, but I am just explaining a worse case scenario so you understand what is going on.

Post by **plumsmooth** » 29 Jan 2021, 15:09

getting worse go for a dismantle and rebuild

Isn't this quite a laborious Job with a Volvo 2004 V70 Wagon?

I mean once it is out of there might it be best to just replace it?

I hope it is not one of those things where you need "programming" from a dealership!

Post by **SuperHerman** » 29 Jan 2021, 22:41

There are two or three similar posts running on key issues, two which appear to be yours.

I tried to explain through the Range Rover example what happens when the key tumblers get all gummed up. The pins start to stick and in my case froze in place.

I suggested using heat and trying to remove as must moisture as possible, assuming water has frozen the mechanism. MAF cleaner or brake cleaner will be a good cleaning solvent as they leave no residue, but they will displace debris. Hence I am hesitant to recommend going that route. Usually just heating the mechanism up and letting it dry is sufficient. A residue free solvent would be my next step, but based on my experience it could cause further problems which you have to be aware of and ready to tackle.

Taking apart a tumbler is not an easy task and not a cost efficient task, but it preserves what you have. I don't know if new parts for the Volvo locks require software reprogramming, but I do know that unless the key is the same you will have a few keys for your car.

With that said, what happens when you add graphite powder to water? The paste formed will complicate matters.

Post by **matthew1** » 29 Jan 2021, 23:10

My grandfather used graphite powder from a small squeeze tube for metal-metal lubrication on items like locks. He was a jet airliner mechanic.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 30 Jan 2021, 04:43

Best solvent would be Acetone.

Chemist finish cleaning glassware with Acetone.

After washing and rinsing the glassware with soap and water, Acetone is swished around to wetten the entire inner surface and shaken out. Air is blowen in to the container. The Acetone evaporates taking its mixed in water with it leaving a bone dry surface.

If I suspected water in a lock I would take a syringe full of Acetone and flush it. Next use the tip of the syringe to hold the lock open as I blew air in to evaporate the Acetone and water. Afterwards use the syringe to inject some lubrication and work the lock with the key to spread the lubrication.

I have done this on a house door locks and it works good.

The freezing point of Acetone is -139°F (-95°C).