'89 740 B230F (USA spec) wont start.

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 13 Mar 2008, 10:28

Found some Ether and did the 5 second squirt. Bingo - it ran for a second or two and stopped. I tried a few times to make sure it wasn't a fluke and each time - same result.
So, having established it's a fuel problem (despite what a "mechanic" here told me that it was definitely electric) and having replaced the fuel pump relay, any pointers?
I imagine the fault code towards the throttle switch might be a candidate? Can I do anything in a progressive manner, I.E. from the tank pump forwards to eliminate the possible causes?
Now I have eliminated 50% of the suspects, that is: anything electric, I am feeling a lot more optimistic.
Again, my thanks all round.

Post by **billofdurham** » 13 Mar 2008, 12:58

Good to know there is some life left in the old beast.

Throttle position switch - I am going to be lazy and point you to a good description:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Throttle_position_sensor

It is mounted on the throttle body.

To test it manually, actually by ear: with the engine switched off open the throttle and listen for a click from the switch. If you hear a click the switch is working but could be just out of position.

To adjust it, ensure the throttle valve is closed. Loosen the TPS retaining screws. Turn the TPS slightly clockwise. Now turn it back again until a click is heard. Tighten the retaining screws and recheck the setting by opening the throttle slightly when a click should be heard.

What is French for ether?

Bill.

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 13 Mar 2008, 13:58

Thanks Bill, that'll be tomorrow's trial. If that doesn't work I guess the self diag isn't working, if it does I should re-check the self diag - yes?
I hope something comes out of tomorrows exploits as, obviously, I can't do anything this weekend - 6 Nations Rugby AND Auzzie Formula One!
Ether in French is ..... wait for this ................

Post by **jonesg** » 13 Mar 2008, 19:24

Can you hear the fuel pump prime , turn the ignition on but don't crank the engine, it should hum for 2 seconds then go off.
Its very quiet and you need to be in a quiet place to hear it.
(or open the gas cap and have someone turn the key as you listen).

If no, remove ashtray and put your finger on the pump relay, you can feel it click during this test, it shoud click on and off as key is turned to II.

Check the fuse, I think its #1 for the pump.
If fuse is ok, pull the relay and reseat it, if it still doesn't go open the relay and go over the solder with a small iron, the joints fail due to heat.

If all that checks out ok, it could still be weak fuel pressure, mine tested out ok as above but didn't provide enough pressure , symptoms were same as yours.

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 14 Mar 2008, 02:16

My first thought way back when this all first happened was that it was the fuel pump. I have tried to hear, or feel it run when the key is turned but I don't sense anything. That said, I don't know how big a sound or motion I am looking for. The fuse is good and I replaced the pump solenoid as the first attempt at fixing this problem so I am assuming it is OK.
One other thought is that over Xmas I ran the tank very, very low. Maybe I have some blockage in the fuel line. Does this mean putting a compressor at one end and blasting it or do I have to strip it down, peice by peice?

Post by **billofdurham** » 14 Mar 2008, 13:20

The best way to hear the pump for that 2 second burst on first switching on is to get your head underneath the car where the pump is located and get someone else to switch it on when all around is quiet. You could also put your hand on the pump and you should feel vibration.

If you do have a blockage in the line the most likely place is the filter which should be changed regularly but usually is overlooked because it is under the car. Don't use a compressor as you may do damage further up the system.

Bill.

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 14 Mar 2008, 14:22

Thanks Bill,
I remember the pump consisted of two cylinders side by side. I guess one is the filter - yes?
How would you recommend I clean it?

Post by **jonesg** » 14 Mar 2008, 15:12

You have the 2 pump system, mine is regina 1 pump.
Either pump can fail in yours.

My filter is in the same location as yours though, it was a pain to change it, it comes off the car easy enough but getting the brass end fitting off it took an impact driver and a big plumbers pipe wrench.

It turns out that brass fitting is the check valve and I should have tossed it with the old filter.! Filters cost less than $20, check valve was $6.
If you elect to change it be sure to get new copper washers.

My pump was listed at $130 but I went to autozone and cross referenced a Korean pump for $65, the original volvo pump was stamped volvo but ifter tearing the outter cover off its actually made by Delco.

They do that a lot, the MAP sensor , after opening it up, was stamped GM.!

Anyway, I believe for the 2 pump system the mechanics here change both pumps out at the same time, the in-tank pump can go weak and cause the main (under car) pump to fail.

LAcking a fuel pressure test, at best, I took an educated gamble and installed a new pump, and it turned out to have been the culprit.

You wouldn't believe the driveability symptoms the pump caused, poor tranny shifting, tranny refusing to downshift, lugging in too low a gear etc.

If you remove fuel line at rail and find the fuel pumps out good, don't be fooled by that either, I filled a cup quickly but there still wasn't enough pressure to atomize the fuel at the injectors, I only know this in retrospect.

You better start reading the FAQ on pumps and filters.
If you have airbags, dissconnect battery, the sensor is close by the filter.
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/F ... eplacement

Post by **billofdurham** » 14 Mar 2008, 16:24

I believe for the 2 pump system the mechanics here change both pumps out at the same time,

Very good advice. If the main pump is changed on its own the old in-tank pump can kill the new one in very quick order. Also if you do change the pumps you must change the sock filter on the in-tank pump as they deteriorate.

On this site check out posts by Kmaniac in California USA. He has done quite a lot of work, well documented on his car.

Bill.

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 24 Mar 2008, 08:48

At last I think I may be close to the problem. My investigations today are: when I turn the ignition key I don't hear the pump run. However, with the ignition on, if I pull the pump fuse and replace it the pump runs for a second. Also, I don't have any crank anymore. Is it possible the ignition switch is the problem? For a while I did notice that when the engine was started occasionally the radio and lights didn't work unless I backed the key a tiny amount. They jumped into life as if the contacts inside has been passed with the clockwise movement of the key.
This said, how the hell do I remove the ignition lock assembly? I've looked and I can't see how. I guess for security it won't be easy!
It's tempting to thnk I might have the old girl up and running very soon - please God!!!
Thanks as ever fellas.