R-type struts?

[chitownV]

I usually reserve that type of spring compressor for non-strut springs-only I have to remove where the body gets in the way on one side. I have seen that type of spring compressor slip and pop out. Spring compressors can break, slip, etc., though my preferences add work & time, it also adds safety.

I personally like redundancies when working at home because the home-use type of tools are not at the same capacity as professional tools, thus why I like to use 3-4 threaded rod type like these which have safety pins: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-11-5-Strut-S ... 637&sr=8-7 You can buy one, and then [free] rent a set from a local auto parts store. Remember to lube the threads before tightening the spring compressor so it doesn't bind.

If you are not sure about doing the work, do the job with a neighbor/friend who has done it before. Or take the strut assemblies to a local shop and pay them to replace the struts and mounts. Also, never let the spring face you. Keep the assembly on the floor facing away from you.

[ggleavitt]

I've seen this version of compressor but never tried it.

I took a pair of inexpensive compressors and added a couple washers plus a thrust bearing (top item in photo) then I lube the threads before use:

ChitownV- I cannot recall, do you have nivomats on your vehicle? If yes, what code? I know you have 33 springs up front but I don't recall your posting a full suspension setup before the extensive re-work you performed on your suspension (as partially with your signature). Might be interesting for folks to see what the rebuild started with.

[chitownV]

As far as struts, the only struts I changed were my front ones and those were with Bilstein B4 Tourings. I've also added front only Bilstein B4s to non-sport suspensions with rear Nivomat and it too drives very well, but with a little more compliance due to the springs.

In my suspension, I added Polyurethane bushings on the large forward bushing of the front control arms and iPd sway bars. All other replacements function the same, just went with OE Volvo or good quality aftermarket. This is what my factory tag said about my suspension:

20 = Front Suspension Spring Code - 33 (Sport)
21 = Front Suspension Strut Code - AI (Basically standard?)
22 = Front Anti-Sway Bar Code - 6 (Sport)
23 = Rear Suspension Spring Code - 54 (Sport?)
24 = Rear Suspension Shock Code - 26 (Nivomat for my 7 seater)
25 = Rear Anti-Sway Bar Code - 9 (Sport)
26 = Front Suspension Bump Stop Code - 5 (Sport?)
27 = Rear Suspension Bump Stop Code - 2 (Sport?)

[ylwgto]

Thanks ChitownV and ggleavitt. Very helpful

so that Bilstein part number looks good to you?

I've done spring replacements on older GM cars a bunch (the jack method), but never attempted a strut. I'm confident in my ability and am very wary of spring power, indeed!

I like the design of those compressors you shared (especially the locking pins. Is the idea with these to have them on either side of the spring once the strut is removed from the car. Then alternate tightening the sides little by little until the top nut and spring seat nut can be removed?

ggleavitt, does that thrust bearing just help take the friction stress off the head of the compressor screw?

[ggleavitt]

^ yes.
As you'll soon see, it'll take quite a bit to compress down to where the seat has no tension. I went from a 5 cylinder to two V8s, have done more than a few 33 springs with these. You can use them no problem with just the washer they come with (lower part in photo), I chose to go the thrust bearing route because I saw the washer was getting deformed and another option came to mind.

[ylwgto]

You guys got a part # for those Bilstein B4 Touring struts?

is it this:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -22-170729

Also, any experience with the strut mount kit from FCP?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... atkit1-oem

XC90 not listed in the Vehicles, but part numbers are the same and in the reviews buyers say they installed on XC90.

thanks!

[chitownV]

Those are the struts. I don't have experience with INA for strut mounts, but avoid Lemforder strut mounts. You could always email FCP to ask them about the kit fitment. You will also want to get a new lower spring seat as the Bilstein Touring B4 struts don't come with them. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 86#fitment Also, depending on the condition of your bump stops, see if you can pay for new ones; it's terrible to stop a project for cheapish parts that might be damaged or dry rotted.

[ylwgto]

Those are the struts. I don't have experience with INA for strut mounts, but avoid Lemforder strut mounts. You could always email FCP to ask them about the kit fitment. You will also want to get a new lower spring seat as the Bilstein Touring B4 struts don't come with them. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 86#fitment Also, depending on the condition of your bump stops, see if you can pay for new ones; it's terrible to stop a project for cheapish parts that might be damaged or dry rotted.

Thanks chitownV

So I got all the parts on hand (Bilstein B struts, new spring insulators, new Sachs upper spring seats, new Corteco bearings and new Sachs bellows and bumpstops).

When I mock up the upper Sachs spring seats on the Bilstein strut shaft, there is quite a bit of play...I assumed this would be a tighter tolerance fit between the shaft and the inside diameter of the metal spring seat (like a bushing over a rod).

Is this normal?

[chitownV]

Yeah, once it is all bolted, it shouldn't be an issue since the strut is double bolted to the steering knuckle and the mount is bolted to the chassis/body. The spring also helps.

[ylwgto]

Got it, thanks!
Just waiting on the new sway end links. Will post once successful!