2000-2008 AW55-50SN Valvebody re-assembly

[firstv70volvo]

Firstv70volvo - What you refer to as "coating" I believe is buildup. In the TransGo kit two drill bits are included - using the one that properly fits, one hand turns the bit into the solenoid, where the pintle slides, and cleans the build up. It is all in the instructions, there are also videos of people doing it.

On the few valve bodies I rebuilt with the TransGo kits, I also gently cleaned the pintle shafts with a green scotch brite.

From what I read with the Rostra valves, they are plug and play, but I understand and appreciate the tuning that may be needed. Another reason to use a real gasket.

In all, the TransGo kit is the $200 solution.

Some have had luck with the SeaFoam TransTune treatment - if one lacks mechanical skills it is worthy of a try.

In my case the solenoid bushings have a coating on them it's not buildup. From what I've read they've used a Teflon coating on these bushing, not sure if they all have a coating on them.

[Phixion]

That's all good to know! I'm definitely aware of the DO NOT TOUCH 27mm bolt up top that holds the B4 band anchor. I actually followed along a member on SS that bought an S60 with no 3rd gear. Turned out some mechanic had removed the bolt to fill the trans from a drain and fill. The member was actually able to repair himself by fishing around for it inside and getting it reattached DIY, total fiasco.

I actually have a bottle of HotShots TSE (Transmission Stiction Eliminator) that was recommended to me to put in and try out. I imagine it's similar to SeaFoam TransTune? I hear the Rostra solenoids have the advantage that they are open and allow for junk to flow through them rather than build up inside like the stock ones. Something Plug and Play and able to be installed without VB removal would be ideal for me, but I understand removing the VB is most ideal.

I'm debating if I should do another Gibbons fluid change or wait and just try to repair with a kit and new solenoids... For me, while a fluid change (full fluid, not just a drain and fill) did cure things mostly but only for a little while, so I don't think that's really the ticket for me at this time although the easiest option.

[Blacklab467]

Just to be clear, you don't have to remove the VB to use the rebuilding parts in the TransGo kit, you can remove the solenoids after you get the oilpan off. Don't be intimidated by removing and disassembling the valve body, It only takes about 2 hours to clean up and install the TransGo pieces once its off.
Im not sure where Montclair is but some people complain about the road salt aggravating the T-50 bolts that hold on the oilpan. I live in Calgary and they salt the hell out of the roads in the winter and I had no problems with the oilpan bolts whatsoever.
Plan to have your car in the garage on jack stands for 2 or 3 days and take your time, its not a difficult job, just a big one. The rewards are well worth the effort on this one, I was going to sell my car to the auto wreckers because of the transmission, it was that bad! Now its perfect and I decided to fix everything else after and spent about $3000 in parts and love the car now. These vehicles are so great when they are working properly and have the right parts in them.......namely Volvo OEM.
Feel free to reach out if you need online help with that job.

[Phixion]

Thank you Blacklab467 I appreciate the encouragement, info and tips. I live in So California, so no road salt or even snow here except for in the mountain areas. The undercarriage is dry and clean thankfully. I actually pass by where TransGo is located on my daily commute ironically. Seems like the kits them self are difficult to locate outside of a distributor in a brief look. Is the filter, or rather filter screen accessible when the pan is off? I hear the filter screen is a very good idea to clean up when possible. I've already located the pan gasket on Amazon to get, as well as the Rostra solenoids, but I hear eBay is a good source when you find genuine ones. $150 for them on Amazon which to me isn't bad at all.

[Blacklab467]

You will have no problems with the oil pan, I used silicone for a gasket because I didn't want any chance of leaks. The filter is not accessible from the pan, it is in the Bell housing end of the transmission and not serviceable without taking the transmission out and disassembling most of it. You can get a gasket at the Nissan dealership for about 9 bucks. I've heard good things about the Rostra solenoids but you will want to check the calibration before you install them which involves disassembly, my preference would be to use the originals for this reason, you'll want to check the resistance of each before you reuse them.
I have attached a link. This guy knows these transmissions and has a very good video on the linear solenoids. I think he is also in SoCal.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=82841&start=10

[Phixion]

Awesome, thank you. I think when I plumb in the external XC90 trans cooler that I got not long ago that I'll put a filter inline with that to hopefully prevent future issues of junk clogging up the solenoids. From what you describe, cleaning up the existing ones does seem like the better choice. I'll check out the link you provided.

[Blacklab467]

I would suggest reviewing your decision to install an external transmission cooler until after rebuilding your solenoids. I just read your original post to try to figure out what is going on. Although heat is the enemy of transmissions, these cars were well engineered to properly dissipate heat adequately with their original equipment and keep the fluid at a safe temperature. That the radiator fan is coming on in traffic and slow driving situations does not denote overheating or an unusual situation. I expect that if Volvo found the transmission cooler inadequate during testing, they'd have installed an auxiliary or larger cooler. Unless the coolant is boiling over and the temperature gauge is getting much beyond the 12 o'clock position, I wouldn't bother.
If your car is legitimately "overheating" I would address this as a separate issue and look for a cause after fixing your valve body/ solenoids.
Incidentally, my faith in the bone stock cooling system in my car comes from an experience I had 2 years ago: it was 37degrees here ( 99 Fahrenheit) and I had the wife and 2 dogs in the car while I was in the passport office, needless to say things were going slower than anticipated in the office and the Volvo was idling in the parking lot with the air conditioning on full blast for an hour and 10 minutes. I was worried the whole time that something awful would happen when I got out..........turns out everything was fine, rad fan was cycling as it should and the temp gauge was at 12 to 13:00. When I put it in gear and drove away, everything was fine and normal. The engineering in these cars is dependable!

[Phixion]

This I don't doubt at all, and I believe you are very well right about the stock cooling system being adequate enough, that's what these cars were designed for. I live in Southern California, so 100+ F is not uncommon at all nor is traffic which is why I felt the cooler might be beneficial. My cooling system and the car itself aren't having issues, it cools as it should. If I let the cooling system cycle as normal, the transmission will begin to act up and flare from 1-2 and 2-3 when the cooling temp of the car gets above 200F degrees. What I've figured out to alleviate the transmission from acting up, I will run the A/C to keep the cooling system temps down, especially in traffic when there's insufficient airflow to the radiator. This is what lead me to believe that this was either a heat soak issue from the cooling system, or the trans itself overheating in some fashion. Of course further reading and the Sonnex documents almost assuring that it's a linear solenoids issue more than likely.