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Vibration at idle and acceleration after hitting a deer

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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mrjay62
Posts: 217
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Year and Model: V70XC 2002
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Re: Vibration at idle and acceleration after hitting a deer

Post by mrjay62 »

Well guys New mount didn't make a difference.
If this is a vacuum leak, are there more that the 2 soft lines on the intake manifold I could disconnect and block off and look for improvement?

Maybe later I'll take the throttle body off and clean it and replace the gasket.
I'm so done with this problem. Grrrr

Thanks guys.

mrjay62
Posts: 217
Joined: 14 May 2014
Year and Model: V70XC 2002
Location: Plamyar Ny
Been thanked: 3 times

Post by mrjay62 »

Well guys New mount didn't make a difference.
If this is a vacuum leak, are there more that the 2 soft lines on the intake manifold I could disconnect and block off and look for improvement?

Maybe later I'll take the throttle body off and clean it and replace the gasket.
I'm so done with this problem. Grrrr
That wish bone,torque mount has way to much flex very soft the original one was in better shape than the new.. FCP is sending a replacement.

Thanks guys.
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vtl
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Post by vtl »

For the idle vibration you basically need to find which bushing is stressed and transfers more vibrations.

Your fuel trim does not support the vacuum leak hypothesis.

How's you harmonic balancer is doing? Do you see your engine is physically shaking more than it used to?

mrjay62
Posts: 217
Joined: 14 May 2014
Year and Model: V70XC 2002
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Post by mrjay62 »

Hi VTI
Today while changing the passenger side I had the touque mount disconnected from the tranny and the top mount. I started the engine it felt the same running on the other 3 mounts. I know the passenger side is good now , I can see the front center and rear center mounts they both look good and full, shaped like top,not collapsed , flattened out or any signs that the fluids leaked out. There frim. As for the harmonic balancer it's old but the rubber looks good looks and even,flat.With car running I don't see any excessive wobble at most very slight but nothing that jumps out said look at me...
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You can see part of the harmonic balancer in this picture 2 me tje rubber looks good
You can see part of the harmonic balancer in this picture 2 me tje rubber looks good

vtl
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Post by vtl »

Okay, so the engine seems to run as smooth as a 5 cylinder Volvo engine usually does. Then you need to find a compromised piece of rubber that makes the vibration transfer possible. Not much places for that to happen: the subframe bushings, strut mounts, steering column (via steering rack) and the upper brace. Do you feel a vibration coming mostly through the chassis or the steering column?

mrjay62
Posts: 217
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Post by mrjay62 »

Hi vti..

I say mostly through the chassis.
Not sure how to go about finding which rubber or bushing is causing this. From what I can see everything is intact, have to remove the plastic bits to see the front subframe bushings. Struts are easy enough to disconnect from the towers. I guess I have to think about it..
Thank you for your input..

vtl
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Post by vtl »

Subframe bushings can be shot, too. They have a thin rubber layer on the edges, when it goes away, the car suddenly gets more vibrations transfer to chassis. I imagine the already worn bushings were stressed during accident and decided to give up. With all new engine pad/torque rods/bushings I didn't have any vibration even at the steering wheel.

Also make sure the upper torque rod ("engine mount") is not in tension when the engine is running. It is made flimsy, not firm on purpose.

mrjay62
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Post by mrjay62 »

No tension on the upper mount or the lower touque mount, I really don't relish the idea of dropping the subframe laying on my back again. It probably wouldn't be an issue if had it up on a lift. Oh well it's a direction. So much just to lower the subframe. ...

Thanks again VTL

vtl
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Post by vtl »

I did that corner by corner, with only a weakish hand drill, hole cutter, floor jack and wife whining that I'm not playing with my kids. Yes, laying on my back, but the whole project was like 0.5/10 where 10/10 would be a DIY engine rebuild.

(pictured impact drill didn't make it)
Image
Image
Image

mrjay62
Posts: 217
Joined: 14 May 2014
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Post by mrjay62 »

Ok
. I didn't think of that.. when I did I removed the whole subframe and replaced steering rack since it had a small leak on one side I also did replace all the bushings like to say in 2018 but I have to look up when I ordered the bushings to be sure could be longer.
How did you support the engine while doing that or didn't you?

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