Alternator Troubleshooting Topic is solved

[br0dy519]

It’s dead , Jim

Mark me as another one of the suckers allured in by the cheap price of the aftermarket voltage regulator which lasted three months.

FCP Bosch, baby, or don’t bother

I edited my original post to say this : I'm not getting a SOLID battery light, it's just flickering once for probably a half of a second immediately after turning over. Engine runs fine and starts without hesitation every time. But it's still worrying me and I'd like to figure out why I get that VERY brief battery light almost every startup.

This alternator was a rebuilt from reputable local reman company, albeit no Bosch logo on it. And it has been ~ 1 month since the repair.. I'm praying it's not the alternator again because that job was a PITA, although it will be easier the second time lol.

I load tested the battery today, and it tested fine lots of CCA available (over the rated amount) and it occurred to me: is this possibly parasitic battery drain? What's the accepted way to test for parasitic drain on our P2 cars? Since you have to have the key in POS II during battery connection, I'm sure my ammeter wouldn't like to see such a large influx of amperage.. unfortunately don't have a clamp DC meter so I have to connect in series

EDIT 1: .02 draw when dead.... could my issue be the starter pulling the alternator down too much? Or am I still looking returning my alternator and doing that job a second time?

[jonesg]

It’s dead , Jim

Mark me as another one of the suckers allured in by the cheap price of the aftermarket voltage regulator which lasted three months.

FCP Bosch, baby, or don’t bother

I edited my original post to say this : I'm not getting a SOLID battery light, it's just flickering once for probably a half of a second immediately after turning over. Engine runs fine and starts without hesitation every time. But it's still worrying me and I'd like to figure out why I get that VERY brief battery light almost every startup.

i'd swap the voltage regulator to bosch.
Its charging under normal running but not switching as it should on startup.

[oragex]

If needed, you should be able to swap a regulator without completely removing the alternator. Just remove the alt from its bracket and flip it to one side to get access to the regulator. On the turbo it may even be possible with the alt still in its bracket. For the alternator to come out, this is my way



Current drain check

[xHeart]

FWIW. An aftermarket rebuild alternator is a shot in the arm, Bosch or NOT. If you had the Volvo's original alternator and surrendered it for a cheap rebuild, then your perpetual electrical grief has just began.

I kept the Volvo's original, and replaced the seized pulley with INA's clutch pulley, and the regulator with Bosch's redesigned duel heat exchanger with correct AMP.

So, pick up a Volvo's original from JY and DIY.

[br0dy519]

Wow, quite the exposition on aftermarket alternators! lol ... just to update the thread. After getting a second off-brand voltage regulator from the rebuilder, installing it, and having it fail again within 2 drive cycles, I brought the rebuilt alternator back and got my money back. Installed a NEW Bosch alternator and all has been well for two weeks. Thread conclusion : DO NOT WASTE TIME ON NON-BOSCH REGULATORS. YOU WILL DO THE JOB 2, OR 3 TIMES LIKE THIS SUCKER.

Now onto a potential throttle issue.. the saga continues in another thread.