Vida CEM swapping

[vtl]

Soldering iron will melt the coat through. Or scratch it with a scalpel/lancet. Pads are pads, just solder thin wires

[RickHaleParker]

Soldering iron will melt the coat through. Or scratch it with a scalpel/lancet. Pads are pads, just solder thin wires

Going to need a smaller soldering iron. Don't want to be lifting pads in the progress. A USB 6 - 8 watt should be a better choice then what I have. I have some pointed brass test pins I might be able to cut down and stand up on the pads. Attach them will a solder fillet around the point. Just worried the mass of the test pin might be too much for the pad.

[scaro]

Im a bit embarassed because when i measured canbus one of the lines were 40ohm... Front2 connector isnt needed (not any 120ohm anyway, will edit my wiring text) You were right Rick Thought that would do the trick but didnt find code anyway.

Used X-prog read both MCUs eeprom and flash. Took the pincode, shuffled it, changed some code and tested it. its accepted.
Now problem is why cemcracker dont find it? Will do better wiring and try as Rick says

Pincode.jpg (108.15 KiB) Viewed 1539 times

Soldering iron will melt the coat through. Or scratch it with a scalpel/lancet. Pads are pads, just solder thin wires

Going to need a smaller soldering iron. Don't want to be lifting pads in the progress. A USB 6 - 8 watt should be a better choice then what I have. I have some pointed brass test pins I might be able to cut down and stand up on the pads. Attach them will a solder fillet around the point. Just worried the mass of the test pin might be too much for the pad.

I usally only do like this when i solder. Maybee this isnt a good example its not that small pads. Have some "pogopins" and fixtures sometimes if needed.

[vtl]

Used X-prog read both MCUs eeprom and flash. Took the pincode, shuffled it, changed some code and tested it. its accepted.
Now problem is why cemcracker dont find it? Will do better wiring and try as Rick says

Are you cracking P1 CEM? And you had to shuffle? Could you paste a few dozens line of the log?

[RickHaleParker]

I usally only do like this when i solder. Maybee this isnt a good example its not that small pads. Have some "pogopins" and fixtures sometimes if needed.

In a previous post I suggested removing the 120Ω from the CAN transceivers. When doing in car cracking they pull the resistance down to 40Ω. When doing bench testing, add the terminating resistors to your test setup. That way the cracker will be setup for both in car and bench testing.

Got some male to female ribbon cables on the way. Thinking I can stand a male up on the pads and solder it in place.

Ordered some Pogo Pins sometime back thinking I would use them for the Teensy 4.0 CRX3 & CTX3 when I get around to making a Odin Shield. Still waiting on the Pogo Pins to arrive. I don't see any practical way to use Pogo Pins to probe the test points on the CEM.

Dipping the ends of the wires in liquid Rosin should help the solder wick up the wire. Get a bead of solder on the pad. Touch the dipped wire to the solder bead. Heat the wire. Solder should wick up the wire forming a nice fillet.

Pack the Arduino sketches you are using in a zip file and attach it. So the coders can see the code you are using.

[scaro]

Are you cracking P1 CEM? And you had to shuffle? Could you paste a few dozens line of the log?

Reordered it maybee is a better word. Used same as this at page12.

The order is: 5, 2, 1, 4, 0, 3

Will fix with termination better. Right know it was easy to just remove Front2 connector.
I just put my pincode in the correct order as "validatetest" in the end and forced "pincracked" to always be true. I think that way it tests that pincode instead of the wrong one it finds. Its saying its validated. If i change to something else it says not validated. Think it works doing like that. Its not nice but works.

Pack the Arduino sketches you are using in a zip file and attach it. So the coders can see the code you are using.

[scaro]

What i meant with "validatetest" was to only test what order pin should be and if it was the right one. It still dont find the right pincode.
I will fix the protoboard better if its noise that makes it not crack it or something else

[blasaab]

Hi now i have got my first read that looks ok with pin verified. does log looks ok?
couldent read with Vtls newest but worket with old

[ricked]

excellent cracker, now with new code P1 work too





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hi

im new here and i also very interested in this topic and dit read all of the pages
@solitaire is there a option to buy 1 of these from you as in my county making a pcb from scratch is very costly and im ready to pay a descend amount for it. as i cant send a PM i did it this way...

[blasaab]

excellent cracker, now with new code P1 work too





IMG_0183.jpg
IMG_0182.jpg
IMG_0181.jpg
IMG_0184.jpg

hi

im new here and i also very interested in this topic and dit read all of the pages
@solitaire is there a option to buy 1 of these from you as in my county making a pcb from scratch is very costly and im ready to pay a descend amount for it. as i cant send a PM i did it this way...

Hi it dosent need to be so expensive.
i got gerber file from this forum and seeedstudio maked 10pcs with shipping for 17usd