seized eccentric bolt/bushing rear control arm stay 2004 XC70

[abscate]

Did you try putting your VIN into the Volvo web store parts engine? I managed to get everything straight in my 1999 AWD accurately with that. P2 has to be better.

[enotslim]

The VIN does work at the Volvo web parts store. However, the diagrams and part numbers are ambiguous (at least to me) and no one seems to know for certain which bearing I need. that means the parts departments at two Volvo dealers do not know. Best guess is 31277952. A consumed a few hours of phone and email tag.

The bearing is in the subframe so one suggestion was to replace the subframe ($1,500 new if available). That's not happening.

The eccentric bolts are seized within the inner bearing tube and there is no way to apply enough force to remove them without damaging the bearings themselves. I also do not think a commercial bearing press/puller will fit at the eccentric bolt side.

Can someone point me to a *good* diy or commercial bearing puller that can fit tight spaces? I think diy could work with the right components, like extra long nuts with lots of threads that won't strip, strong bolts with threads that won't strip, etc. I think this has been worked out by others and I don't want (and probably can't anyway) reinvent the wheel.

Seems unlikely without access to the inner bearing tube.

Alternatively, I can remove the bearing by cutting/SawzAll/whatever it takes and hope I find replacement that fits.

Most importantly, if all fails can I drive the car to a shop for repair safely and without damaging anything once these stays have been entirely removed from the rear suspension?

Thanks for your help.

[SuperHerman]

I sent you the video of the repair. Based on this here is how I would proceed.

Order both bushings, needed nuts, special washer (if needed) and bolt and the trailing arm. Cut the arms off both ends of the bolt. Cut the trailing arm off at the inside end. Pry off the pieces if they are stuck. I think they will fall off. This leaves you with the bushing in the subframe, which is your worry.

Cut it out like in the video. Do a lap around the rubber and get rid of the bolt shaft and inner metal sleeve. Then cut through per video. I don't know what you have for a bearing press, but you can get by with a long threaded bolt, some thick washers and three nuts. Find what spacers will work for you as the video shows. You may be able to get buy using the old bushing. Either weld it where you cut it or try a hose clamp to keep it from splitting. You can even cut it in half if you have the tools. Just watch the video and see what you can find. You can look through the local hardware store for various pipe fittings. The one I would look for is threaded on one end and flat on the other with two mounting screws (commonly used in makeshift hand rails to fasten to the hard service).

I don't see getting the bushing in as too difficult. Grease the bolt used for pulling the bushing in as this really helps. Grease the washer faces.

Now if you get stuck and need to bring it in, here is what I would do. Find some wood, 2x4 would work. If you have a drill bit that cuts a hole for a door knob use it to cut a wood bushing that you can tap into the subframe. Bolt it up. This will allow you to tow the car in. Other option is to use the original you cut out and use some garden hose or similar to minimize slap. You get the idea.

[enotslim]

Thanks. I will try the approach you suggest.

The kit at 2:00 minutes in the video below looks very versatile. I know it's way more than I need now but for future reference ... and these things have a way of sneaking up on me fast. Any idea who sells something like this? I haven't found it searching on my phone.

[SuperHerman]

I have that kit, I bought it from a guy off Craigslist. He bought it off eBay if I recall. The kit works well, but for your application you may be able to use one of the cups for the outside only. To be honest you can use a piece from the plumbing section, a suitable size 1/4" steel plate with a hole drilled in it and it will be easier as the cups are deep/long or use the used bushing shell as described in my other post. I have bent 3 of the 4 threaded rods so the quality is suspect. I have resorted to using the cups and more aggressive off the shelf bolts or threaded rods. I have also had to order three sets of bearings because the originals have failed. (That is why I told you to grease the washers). So my experience is the cups come in handy, the rest of the stuff has failed and I have resorted to using the same techniques I used before buying the set. I would buy a set, but for your application you can get by without it. Again, grease the threads of the rod or long bolt in the area it passes through the nuts.

[abscate]

I’ll take a picture of my bearing kit and send , tell if you think it could work. I might be in Boston this week ( seems strange !) too,

I’ll ping you on cell , too

[enotslim]

Thanks. I'm looking at the bearing kit below. $80 delivered today. The parts from Fastenal used in the great video earlier in this thread (three bolts and a nut) are $20 themselves.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic- ... 9319&psc=1

Or this on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202873680363?_ ... %3A2047675

[jonesg]

in boston you can try autozone for their free rental tools, i did my truck wheel bearings with their press.
They have a poster on the counter top showing which tools they have for loan.

[SuperHerman]

If time and money is not an issue, I would buy both of the kits you showed. Each kit serves a different purpose. The cups can push and receive, but for pushing (and receiving) they take up a bit of space. The cups receive the bushing that is getting pushed out. I may buy the pushers as I don't have this set, although I have always found a workable solution without them.

For your application I would be creative as in the video. Again you can use the removed bushing, if sawed to split, bind with a hose clamp or a bunch of zip ties or both, to do the pushing. I don't think the cups will fit in the limited space after watching the video, that is why video maker used a plastic sleeve.

Go to Home Depot or equivalent and just get a beefy threaded rod and matching bolts. You should be in and out for $10.00. Look through the plumbing section and look for a pipe flange of appropriate size to run the bolt through and push.