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What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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RickHaleParker
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Re: What did you do to your Volvo today?

Post by RickHaleParker »

patcal wrote: 09 Jun 2021, 18:18 ECC lights are not blinking at me.
Not winking at you anymore .. it lost interest in you.
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Post by abscate »

It’s almost stressful driving with no lights on the dash. I’ve been slaying lights in cars all year during Covid on Volvo’s and two flavors of Bavarian wasters
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mdr1220
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Post by mdr1220 »

This adventure started with replacing a busted ps pump followed by thinking I had lawnmower syndrome, new starter and PNP switch and it still won't start. Pissed off now and do the one thing that I didn't do when it threw the belt when the ps pump exploded. Check the timing belt.....
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mdr1220
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Post by mdr1220 »

Hopefully it will start once I put a new belt on and it didn't skip the timing. Any tips to make this as painless as possible? First time doing a Volvo 5 cylinder.
Used to have a 01 c70 convertible

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amblerman
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Post by amblerman »

mdr1220 wrote: 10 Jun 2021, 05:47 Hopefully it will start once I put a new belt on and it didn't skip the timing. Any tips to make this as painless as possible? First time doing a Volvo 5 cylinder.
There are some great tutorials found here that I found helpful when I did my s70 for the first time. It was my first timing belt every and those tutorials plus videos got me through the job.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=47793

Your car is different than mine in that you have the hydraulic tensioner and different power steering pump that would have made your job different.

Many guides report that you can get the timing belt off WITHOUT removing the crank pulley. That was not the case with my car as the fuel line is routed different than on your car. On my car it routs along frame near crank pulley and takes up space that would be required to remove belt.

However, if you do remove the crank pulley, you will have so much more room. You will need something significant to get the crank bolt out though.

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mdr1220
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Post by mdr1220 »

amblerman wrote: 10 Jun 2021, 07:57
mdr1220 wrote: 10 Jun 2021, 05:47 Hopefully it will start once I put a new belt on and it didn't skip the timing. Any tips to make this as painless as possible? First time doing a Volvo 5 cylinder.
There are some great tutorials found here that I found helpful when I did my s70 for the first time. It was my first timing belt every and those tutorials plus videos got me through the job.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=47793

Your car is different than mine in that you have the hydraulic tensioner and different power steering pump that would have made your job different.

Many guides report that you can get the timing belt off WITHOUT removing the crank pulley. That was not the case with my car as the fuel line is routed different than on your car. On my car it routs along frame near crank pulley and takes up space that would be required to remove belt.

However, if you do remove the crank pulley, you will have so much more room. You will need something significant to get the crank bolt out though.
Thanks amblerman. This forum has been a timesaver for me.
Used to have a 01 c70 convertible

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Post by bmdubya1198 »

I've never needed to remove the crank pulley to install the timing belt, but it does make it easier. Check that everything lines up first, you might have gotten lucky. A leakdown test will confirm or eliminate valve damage before doing the work.
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Post by mdr1220 »

bmdubya1198 wrote: 10 Jun 2021, 10:27 I've never needed to remove the crank pulley to install the timing belt, but it does make it easier. Check that everything lines up first, you might have gotten lucky. A leakdown test will confirm or eliminate valve damage before doing the work.
Thank you. I'm going to do the leakdown test after i replace the belt
Used to have a 01 c70 convertible

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Post by foggydogg »

mdr1220 wrote: 10 Jun 2021, 17:36
bmdubya1198 wrote: 10 Jun 2021, 10:27 I've never needed to remove the crank pulley to install the timing belt, but it does make it easier. Check that everything lines up first, you might have gotten lucky. A leakdown test will confirm or eliminate valve damage before doing the work.
Thank you. I'm going to do the leakdown test after i replace the belt
It's been too many years since I did the belt on my first 850, but one thing that helps give you a bit more room - on the 70 series too - is to jack up the motor, pull both bolts out of the motor mount, and if you have to, put a bolt back through the top hole into the bottom hole in the motor. If you have enough paraphernalia, and can just block off the motor with cribbing, take the mount off completely.
I couldn't find the crank gear mark on the Rescue R until I had it in my hands. The car was apart for a week, but some of that time was me having a man-to-man chat with various body parts, convincing them to lay down on the concrete again.
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Post by foggydogg »

mdr1220 wrote: 18 May 2021, 19:48 Busted pump removal
Holy mustache, I just stumbled onto this earlier post. Natty Boh Tall Boy ! You are a true Boy from Bal'mer !
That takes some of the pain out of the wrenching.
69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
94 850 Turbo, T-boned, ambulance for me, crusher for it
97 855 T5, 855 R projects
98 V70R x2, Silver Junkyard rescue, Coral Red
98 V70GLT x2, parts cars
00 V70xc x2, both now dead
62 122s, gone to live in Richmond
56 445 Duett basket project
1950 Studebaker 2R10 flatbed, T9 crashbox

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