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Air pump notes - 97 850 GLT

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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bullshark
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Volvo Repair Database Air pump notes - 97 850 GLT

Post by bullshark »

I changed out my air pump due to a recurring PO410. I hated to do it because there just wasn't enough diagnostics to be sure that was the cause, but sure enough it was.

After reviewing Matt's excellent instructiond for converting a VW air pump, I decided to go with OEM. No particular reason except that I was pressed for time.

I used the instructions provided by Rich Kelley at Volvospeed.com. (Note to Rich: Black text on dark blue background - what are you thinking?).

The job goes pretty much just as he says. The turbo job is more difficult than he makes it out. When he says getting the bolts off on the SAS valve is hard with a turbo, he means hard! I was close to torching a 10mm box end so I could bend it, when I found an old set that was just stubby enough.

I took all the advice:
  • replace SAS
  • replace solenoid
  • replace pump output hose
I live in Florida and as it turns out, all that really needed replacing was the pump. The SAS valve worked fine, so did the solenoid and I managed to get the output hose off the SAS without breaking it.

I got all my parts (except the hose) from FCP Groton and they were prompt, helpful and quick to ship. My one gripe was the solenoid. It was pretty crappy, and not sealed, and not OEM, but then again, they didn't claim it was. The original was carefully sealed with hot glue. I did the same thing with RTV on the new one. Considering where it's mounted, it will be toast if you don't.

The PO410 went away and stayed away. I have an OBD-2.com cable and software for my laptop. It works pretty well, resets DTCs and service lights and also works on my other car: a chevy impala.

The whole job took about an hour, skinned one knuckle, didn't break anything new and I only used about half the cuss words I know.

One of my biggest concerns was re-setting the funky hose clamps without the special tool. Groton had all the right clamps and tightening them with a large-ish pair of dikes was snap.

I'm pretty proficient mechanically, have a lot of tools and always have. I'd say this job is not for everyone. There is a lot of stuff you could break along the way, and serious need to be able to work by touch with fingertips only.

bullshark

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Post by matthew1 »

bullshark, thanks for the report. i put this in the Volvo Repair Database.
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Ivo
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Joined: 6 January 2007
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Location: Alberta, Canada

Post by Ivo »

Hello all,

As my lovely car shows this codes : EFI 442, 445, and 448 I was told I need new Air pump relay, air pump, air pump checl valve and solenoid valve. I decided to check the relay myself. The relay had 3 connectors. The first and the last one were all covered insied with copre sulfate (green staff) and the first one (the bulkiest connecter) was full with water. I clean it as I can, spray it with WD40. The middle connector did not want to disconect. At the end it broke apart - the cable shoe left on the small metall bumb like glued to tit and the cabel and the plastic clip broke.
I need help how to fix this - I have pictures of the problem parts but I do not know how to post them here. Any idea how to fix this midddle connector or can I buy a new cable - it looks like it is blue- red cabel.
In addition, how to remove the air pump relay itselff - it looks like it is atached with two metal clips that are so rusty I am afraid to brake something else too. Please, advise me.

I browsed a Russin Volvo site. A fellow there figure it out that he can use Air Pump form Opel Vectra (GM in Europe) and it cost....only around $70CAD today exchange rate (Jan 6, 2007) - compare with $605CAD or the lowest price on internet of $300US for a new one. My relatives right now is researching the exact model and as son as I have it I will let you know. It looks that it is the exact same Air pump and the only think replaced was the end lid with the hose end.

Best regards,

Ivo

PS: I jsut bought this car with a bunchof problems, but I love it and it was the only available St transmission volvo 850 in 3000km radius.

CarVolvo
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Post by CarVolvo »

yes the relay is held on with metal clips.... they might snap but they wont break the relay if your careful not to put any pressure on it.

What year is your volvo? I have a 94 airpump and relay available from an engine swap.. here are some pics which might help you describe the issue.

Image

Image

message me at [email protected] if you need more pics or info! Thanks!
THE FLEET!:

93 854 GLT 20v non-turbo 435,000 KM +

94 854 20v non-turbo 215,000 KM ..new engine

87 745 B230 non-turbo 250,000 KM (newest edition Jan '07)

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Ivo
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Post by Ivo »

Hello CarVolvo,

The e-mail is in your inbox with the pictures of my problem. Thank you and hope to hear from you.

Can someone tell me how to atach pictures to my posting?

Regards,

Ivo

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Post by MadeInJapan »

Ivo wrote:Can someone tell me how to atach pictures to my posting?
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... hp?p=16880
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

Ivo
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Post by Ivo »

Ivo- I've edited this post for you because your pictures didn't show up. What you need to do is copy the last link from image shack and paste it into where you are typing but with Image on each side of the link (without spaces...hope this helps).

Thank you everybody who helped so far with an advise.

Here are some pictures to illustrate my problem with the air pump relay:

Image
Image
Image
Image

Any advise how to fix the broken connector/cabel end will be appreciated!

Ivo

CarVolvo
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Location: Bit West of Toronto, Canada

Post by CarVolvo »

if all you need are the connectors.. i an remove it from my car and mail it to you. Are you sure that the connector is at fault? I mean is your relay and motor working properly?
THE FLEET!:

93 854 GLT 20v non-turbo 435,000 KM +

94 854 20v non-turbo 215,000 KM ..new engine

87 745 B230 non-turbo 250,000 KM (newest edition Jan '07)

86 244 GL B230 non-turbo 460,000+ KM

volvoman9
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Joined: 8 April 2008
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Location: Wyoming

Post by volvoman9 »

I replaced the air pump on my XC with a VW one and am happy with the results so far. However the check engine light came on again and showed the same code; #410. I had the tech at the auto parts store reset the light as I am sure the pump functions alright . I can hear it run. I had replaced the SAS valve earlier along with both hoses. I assume the solenoid is functional as it runs the pump at what appears to be the appropriate intervals. The only thing I didn't replace was the elbows at the purple vacuum tube to the SAS valve. my question is.. does the check engine light have to be reset after this repair even when the battery has been removed? It didn't come back on for about a day and then did. Is this fault code stored and then reappears later? Mileage 130K

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

Yeah, go ahead and reset the code and see it it comes back. If that doesn't do it, replace the elbow or like I did, just replace the entire line with a small bore silicone line. I think I have some spare I could send you if you need it.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

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