99- 5 cylinder oil filter change - info and questions?

[scot850]

So, some may have seen it has been a long time since I last changed the my 2000 'R'.

As my memory does well to remember yesterday let alone 3 years ago some of the details eluded me. I decided to do the old 'Youtube search and as is often the case, the info is average and often wrong.

I recalled certain install issues so went to the old Vida info for reminders.

So:

1) When fitting the paper filter element it does not matter which way around it is fitted.
2) The holes in the new filter will look smaller than the old one as the old ones have been compressed on install and use.
3) When fitting the paper element, make sure you push down on the element into the cap with even firm pressure until you get a 'click' which is it snapping in place on the valve in the cap.

4) When fitting the new oil seal ring, it should be lightly coated in new engine oil to ease fitting. All the videos I looked at including some of the big part suppliers, none mentioned or showed this being done. It will help reduce the chance of snagging or tearing the seal when re-fitting the cover
5) There are 3 possible places where the seal could potentially fit. There are 3 larger rings below the threaded section. The middle one has a notch at one part in the circumference to allow you to use a small screwdriver or hook to get under the seal for removal.

When installing the filter back into the engine, wind slowly to allow the oil seal to move while tightening. This will reduce the chances of the seal being damaged. Once the seal lip is fully against the engine case, tighten the cap to 25Nm. This is the Volvo spec for this. I know many who do this every day will get a feel for this, but for those of us who don't this is what Volvo quote. In the videos I see anything from, tighten an extra 'bit' to a quarter turn to until it feels snug. As none of the videos lubed the seal........

Lastly, the oil drain plug torque is 38Nm with a new crush washer.

Hope this is of help.

One question I have(other than why did Volvo make a simple process harder than using the old metal can as used since mid 60's) is this.

Does anyone fill the cap/filter housing or the metal oil filter can on the older engines with new oil before installing?

Neil.

[Sveedy]

Being a '96, I have the spin-on metal canister style filter, which I fill before installing. I have always done that on old V8's so I just kept the habit. Certainly can't hurt.

[scot850]

I agree with you on that on the old metal can filters. Some said you only needed to that on cars without a return valve in the filter like Volvo has. But that doesn't fly as when you replace the filter it takes a few seconds to fill the filter from the oil pan before you get pressure and removing either type of filter allows oil to drain out of the filter area.

It can be messy if you fully fill the can but probably still worth it if you are able to. Paper element filters are a bit more challenging but it may be possible although I have not done it. If I only change the oil every 3 years like this time I won't be around long enough to worry about it becoming a potential issue!!

Neil.

[foggydogg]

Motor oil has gotten measurably better during our lifetime; draining the sump doesn't render the engine internals devoid of that precious film. The big oil guys all say just lube the gasket and spin it home. I went through a GM training session at a local Chevy dealership lots of years ago and that Factory guy was adamant about not doing it because pouring oil in the center hole means the engine gets a dose of unfiltered on startup. Since we all use Impeccable Cleanliness in our garage habits, it's probably not an issue.
Multiple threads on the issue over at the Geekfest here:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threa ... it.115456/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threa ... il.191615/
My guess is it doesn't really matter, so À Chacun Son Goût

[abscate]

The myth that 90% of engine wear occurs on startup is still deeply rooted and attached to 5 year tire life mythology.

[scot850]

In warmer climes, I would expect less engine wear from cold, but in areas where low temps are there for 4-5 months a year is where you would see more wear from cold.

Oil pressure being maintained by the non-return valve in the filter is to reduce wear of the cams as much as anything else as it takes time for oil pressure to get up there otherwise.

Neil.