'89 740 B230F (USA spec) wont start.

Post by **billofdurham** » 24 Mar 2008, 13:02

This is a possibility as dodgy ignition switches can cause all sorts of problems.

This said, how the hell do I remove the ignition lock assembly? I've looked and I can't see how. I guess for security it won't be easy!

First remove the back wheels...... Only joking.

Disconnect the battery negative lead. If radio is coded make sure you have the code.
Remove the trim panel from below the steering column.
Disconnect the multi-plug from the ignition switch.
Remove two secrews which secure the switch to the steering lock and withdraw the switch.
Refit is reverse of above but the hole in the centre of the switch is shaped so it will only engage the spindle in one position.

Remember to put the back wheels on!!!

Bill.

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 25 Mar 2008, 10:35

Getting tired of this fault hunt now! I dropped the rear axle and bought a 2nd hand ignition module thingy, refitted it and nada! No engine crank.
The battery was giving out 10volts so I don't know if that would be a contender, the CD player, elec windows etc worked OK.
Looking back over this thread, starting with it being a **** to start, hot or cold, needing ages of cranking before leaping into life. She didn't die once moving and the Ether test started her for the life of the gas. So - no fuel but the pump humms when I remove and replace the fuse. It doesn't when I turn the key. For a short while she would try to start with little blips of the crank.
I'm getting desperate now and my friends need their car back. Added to this, I'm skint and need to find a way of starting her without spending anymore on parts.
If you guys have any ideas, however ridiculous, they would be warmly and gratefully recieved.
Yours in deep,

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 26 Mar 2008, 07:36

Guys - FANTASTIC NEWS!!!!!!!!!!!
I have no idea what did the job but she's running now! The "no - crank" problem was a battery only putting out 10 volts.
Re-charged and re-fitted she fired up and sang me that wonderful Volvo melody!
I really don't know what finally did it, I suspect it was actually the ignition switch but I am so relieved to have a comfortable ride again.
I cannot thank you guys enough for your kind and patient support, you will get your reward in heaven I am sure but I will make a donation in the meantime.
Thanks again so much and here's wishing you the best!

Relieved of Cavaillon.

Post by **billofdurham** » 26 Mar 2008, 13:08

Good news is always welcome.

Thanks for the update.

Bill.

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 09 Apr 2008, 06:27

Yep - me again!
Sods law has cast it's smile upon me and, during reversing into a client's driveway, I have broken my Catalyser! It couldn't just have been the exhaust box - no!
Anyway, I've found a rapid fit place that can do the job for a reasonable price, my concern is that the "Check Engine" light has come on again. It was on after I cooked the engine last December (no antifreeze) and it went off once I got over the no-start issue with the ignition switch. Could this just be telling me my Cat is ****ed? (Like I need to be told, she sounds like a Spitfire!)

Yours in the noisier corner of France!

Post by **billofdurham** » 09 Apr 2008, 11:47

Could this just be telling me my Cat is ****ed? (Like I need to be told, she sounds like a Spitfire!)

It could well be the reason for the CEL.

Sounds like a Spitfire - the best and most distinctive engine noise ever produced, in my opinion. Of course it is not so good on a car.

Bill.

edalbesor · Post by **edalbesor** » 09 Apr 2008, 11:58

No - it tends to attract Les Gendarmes!
I heard a story about the Mercedes McLaren SLR. Once given it's shake down a tech from McLaren said "streuth, she sounds like a Spitfire".
His opposite number from Mercedes said "No, she sounds like a Messerschmitt!"

Post by **jonesg** » 09 Apr 2008, 17:57

When I bought my 740 it had a weak battery and wouldn't keep running, you might want to put a voltmeter across the terminals when its running , look for about 14v. I'm surprised it started at all with only 10v, that might not be enough to trigger some of the elec components.

If you get low volts check the regulator on the back of the alternator and the brushes, its an ez fix. I replaced mine with an adjustable one.
Could have been something as simple as a loose bet too.