Should I buy an XC60 with 200K?

SkyVolvo · Post by **SkyVolvo** » 01 Jul 2021, 12:40

So, I know a large part of the question always comes down to how well an owner took care of the car, but there's a pretty clean looking 2013 XC60 (3.2 Platinum) for sale at around $5400. And it's got 200K miles on it.

I'm used to getting lots of good miles out of my Volvos - well over 200 when I don't accidentally run the engine without coolant.

So there's definitely part of me that says, hey, go for it, you'll probably get your money's worth from it. I don't mind tackling some work myself so long as the car itself is worth the effort. Normal maintenance items don't bother me.

On the other hand, some cars just aren't actually worth the effort, and now that I've got young kids I don't have as much time to mess with crazy projects as I once did. A Volvo example for me would be the 99-2002 Volvos that all had major issues with the switch to the electronic throttle module and lots of issues with the early AWD as well. Better for me just not to buy one in the first place.

If I can avoid buying a bunch of entirely predictable problems, I'd like to, but I don't know these newer Volvos at all (my newest is my 2004 S60, still doing excellent). Y'all think I should keep looking for one with lower miles, maybe around 120-150?

Post by **volvolugnut** » 01 Jul 2021, 13:48

My 2 cents: If it has good records of regular service and repairs it is a good one to consider. Then get an independent Volvo mechanic to evaluate current condition.
volvolugnut

Post by **pgill** » 01 Jul 2021, 15:35

Sky,

For my 2010 S80 3.2 that I bought a little over two years ago I did
Note: you didn't say FWD or AWD (information below is for FWD)

$62.53 --- (31401556) --- Booster O-rings
$40.35 --- (DENSO 5344) --- Sparkplugs
$58.28 --- (LR006071) --- Thermostat
$00.66 --- (LR001505) O-ring for 30713530
$24.29 --- (30713530) --- Coolant hose
$68.85 --- (31272677) --- Oil Filter housing
$18.92 --- (LR006076) --- Idler pulley
$18.92 --- (LR006076) --- Tensioner Pulley
$08.97 --- (PK060473 CONTITECH) --- Aux Belt
$112.70 --- (LR021634) --- Motor Mount
$23.24 --- (30680474) --- Torq Mount
$15.76 --- (UD1306) --- Front Brake Pads (Amazon close out price, typical price is ~$75)
$523.23 --- AC repair
$43.37 --- Overdrive pulley ProParts Sweden 28436803
$323 ---- Radiator (Prem Air type)
$281 --- Radiator Fan (Siemens / VDO)
$34 --- BOSH Fuel Pressure Sensor

If you don't mind doing the work then go ahead and get it.

If you carefully inspect the XC60 some of these items may not be needed

1. Check the Vent temperature for the AC on the coldest setting does it get below 50F?

2. The Radiator may not need to be replaced if its not setting codes for LIN bus communication

3. Check the serpentine belt. It should move freely in one direction and lock up in the other (a clutched pulley is used). If it won't move in either direction ask if its been replaced, including the pulley. It was supposed to be done at 150,000 miles.

4. Check the brake booster vacuum pump O-ring and surrounding area. If it is very clean then the engine has likely has synthetic motor oil since new. In this case I wouldn't worry about miles.

And the remaining items on the list just replace them when you buy it and you shouldn't have to do much for several years

If the XC60 is AWD then you will need to service the Haldex, Rear differential, Power transfer unit in addition to what I included above

Good luck

Paul

Post by **MoVolvos** » 01 Jul 2021, 16:43

*
I almost purchased a 2010 XC60 last year. Looked new and original owner had all service records. People like it because it drives like a car and is not a full SUV. Was considering it as it was the right height for getting in and out for my aging parents.

Long story short after much research this forever turned me away from XC60's of those years. The owner also indicated that the engine was starting to use oil (200K). Don't care for the looks that much but at the time there was an abundance of nice clean cheap low mileage (100K and up) XC60's in the market to choose from.

https://www.carcomplaints.com/Volvo/XC6 ... tion.shtml

*

Post by **pgill** » 01 Jul 2021, 18:28

Volvo did make a change to the piston rings with the 3.2

(something about good intensions and the road to hell come to mind........or maybe the law of unintended consequences depending on what school you went to.)

This change happed with Model Year 2010 but they changed the piston rings again at the end of 2011 (production) a 2013 should have the revised rings

Full disclosure I own a 2008 3.2 LR2 (#98) with the original oil control rings and I own a 2010 S80 3.2 PZEV (#96) with the problematic oil control rings. I never add oil to the LR2 and I don't add much to the S80 (less than 1 quart per 5,000 miles). The S80 was bought used and the LR2 was purchased new (the LR2 has only used synthetic oil, I can't say the same about the S80 but it is using synthetic now)

Volvo changed the piston rings in production DDMMYY 301011
For those of us not used to this format the change was one day before Halloween in 2011.

A 2013 XC60 should have the modified oil control rings from the factory.

The 3.2 did come in different configurations

98 B6324S 2007 - 2010
96 B6324S2 2010 - 2010
94 B6324S4 2011 - End of life
95 B6324S5 2011 - End of life

The TJ has more information

TJ24643-2013-05-15.pdf: (12.58 MiB) Downloaded 652 times

Good luck

Paul

PS I reiterate my recommendation for buying a high mileage 2013 3.2. Because just before all hallows eve in 2011 Volvo diverted from the path to hell and back to the "Road Less Traveled By"

PPS I am certain the the previous owner sold the S80 that I bought because of oil pressure problems. Which I fixed in a couple of hours and a small amount of money..........[$68.85 --- (31272677) --- Oil Filter housing].....and in case you are wondering this failed on my LR2 also which is why I knew what to do.

paul66 · Post by **paul66** » 24 Aug 2021, 15:27

great vehicle! I would have the engine inspected because the rest will last and would change all fluids with these:
https://www.searchforparts.com/oil-chan ... 4]-b6324s4

then as mentioned before brakes, tires and your good. It helps to do stuff yourself but if you are short on time then a local mom and pop shop type mechanic will be better than the dealer. Also buy parts and oil/fluids online and take it to the local mechanic, will save you a bundle. I would ask why so many miles to the owner though, are they city or highway miles, I think that would make a difference to measure more or less what kind of wear and tear the engine has had, and definitely change the belts.