$10,000 S80 Challenge Topic is solved

[pgill]

MVS Readers,

The battery on my S80 died suddenly. No warning was given. My Son drove it home and parked in the driveway and I went out an hour later to move it and it wouldn't start. I tried to recharge the battery but it didn't have enough capacity to even get the starter to click. Its a standard wet cell type battery, I did check to make sure that it still had electrolyte in all 6 cells and it did.

Based on the marking on the battery it was purchased in June of 2017 and it was supposed to be a 6 year battery. Not by my math more like four years and three weeks. The battery came with the car when I bought it so no warranty for me.

I was planning on changing it at some point. (Not today but someday soon)

I did notice a while ago that the Positive terminal clamp was corroded, so I bought one a few weeks back with the intension of replacing it with the battery.

Because the battery in my LR2 is also old I actually put the new battery in the LR2 and I am using a slightly too large H7 in place of the original H6 battery for the S80. (the battery cover won't latch with the H7)

Some pictures

For the 13 mm hex nuts I torqued them to 17 newton meters or 12.5 Ft * LBS if you prefer

This is the torque needed to remove the nuts.

If someone knows the actual specification let me know and I will tighten them to the proper spec.



I will need to think about the cost up date

B+ terminal cost will be added

Loaner battery will likely be zero cost

Replacement battery when the loaner dies will be added.

I think that this is the correct accounting.

Thanks

Paul

PS if I can determine a way to make the H7 battery fit I will post it here. Note the Hold down bracket has two positions and to clamp the H7 I just switched to the other position. Its the same bracket for the S80 and LR2.

[abscate]

There are too many variable to use a torque spec for a battery clamp.

I tighten them while gently twisting the clamp, when I can no longer twist it, I give it 1/12 nip more (1/2 of a hex flat) to freeze it in place.

[pgill]

There are too many variable to use a torque spec for a battery clamp.

I tighten them while gently twisting the clamp, when I can no longer twist it, I give it 1/12 nip more (1/2 of a hex flat) to freeze it in place.

Agreed thanks

That answers location A

Does anyone know the torque spec for location B or C? (see below for an alternate solution)

Clamp_2.jpg (164.82 KiB) Viewed 1328 times

If the answer is essentially what ABSCATE wrote for the terminal that is fine as well.

To paraphrase: Don't worry about the exact torque just confirm the cable terminal has a positive clamping force by gently moving it while tightening and when it is secure add just a little more.

This is good advice. Thanks ABSCATE!!!

Thanks

Paul

[pgill]

Cost update 8/3/2021

Total Vehicle Cost (excluding, wheels, tires, fluids and filters)

$2900 --- Depreciation (Purchase price $7400 - Present value $4500)
$62.53 --- (31401556) --- Booster O-rings
$40.35 --- (DENSO 5344) --- Sparkplugs
$58.28 --- (LR006071) --- Thermostat
$00.66 --- (LR001505) O-ring for 30713530
$24.29 --- (30713530) --- Coolant hose
$68.85 --- (31272677) --- Oil Filter housing
$18.92 --- (LR006076) --- Idler pulley
$18.92 --- (LR006076) --- Tensioner Pulley
$08.97 --- (PK060473 CONTITECH) --- Aux Belt
$112.70 --- (LR021634) --- Motor Mount
$23.24 --- (30680474) --- Torq Mount
$15.76 --- (UD1306) --- Front Brake Pads (Amazon close out price, typical price is ~$75)
$523.23 --- AC repair
$43.37 --- Overdrive pulley ProParts Sweden 28436803
$323 ---- Radiator (Prem Air type)
$281 --- Radiator Fan (Siemens / VDO)
$34.4 --- (31272732-MFG14) BOSCH Fuel Pressure Sending unit
$11.61 --- (31300263) B+ Battery Clamp
$00.00 --- Loaner Battery from the Land Rover (Note: it is slightly too large and the cover only latches on one side)


Total $4637

PS for the depreciation I will need do a calculation so that the present value will drop 12% per year (1% per month) or something similar. If someone has a recommendation let me know. Alternatively I could just get a quote from CARMAX every year.

[Steve H]

Great price on that oil filter housing. $100 cheaper than I am seeing. The part must have really increased in price (like everything else I am looking at has).

[pgill]

Steve,

Did your anti drain valve fail?

Take care

Paul

[abscate]

Depreciation.

For a running, smog test passing car I think $2000 is a basic number that you can get for any car in CA.

There is always a market for basic transportation.

Once you have amortized $5000 of depreciation , I would argue it has collapsed to $0 from then on

[Steve H]

My drain valve has not failed yet but when I saw your write up I thought about buying the part because at 212K it is only a matter of time but then I saw the current price and I decided to wait it out since my car was totaled by a deer and I fixed it myself and I might want to consider that could happen again beyond my ability to fix next time when I decide to carry too many parts. I have had a Saab 900SE totaled 2 times. One with me driving(I fixed it) and another with my son driving it and that time nobody was fixing it that time. Both time were not our fault.

[pgill]

Steve,

I am sure that I have the assembly that I removed from my S80 on the shelf somewhere.

The Anti drain valve is broken but the heat exchanger is working fine if you need the heat exchanger let me know.
Note: when the heat exchanger fails it mixes oil into the coolant.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr2-3 ... ing-85879/

If you need a Field Expedient Repair for the Anti drain valve you can use a Torx key to plug the hole. (My T25 fits very nicely).










More information in this thread

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31826-30.html


Good luck

Paul

PS PM me if you need the used heat exchanger from my 2010 S80

[Steve H]

Thank you for the offer of the heat exchange. I assume when mine fails it will be the typical valve failure. So far it works.