Control Arm + Tie Rods, Order / Tips

cmdz · Post by **cmdz** » 14 Aug 2021, 18:14

There's a lot of guides and videos for the inner / outer tie rods
likewise, there are several good ones for the control arms.

I have all the parts to do all ( I hope, lol ) and was wondering if there were any shortcuts but more importantly, I was looking for guidance on recommended order of execution.

I could spend one day and tackle all, or if I had a day to only get to one, which would you suggest first ?

1994 850 - 61k

thank you in adv for any help !

Post by **erikv11** » 15 Aug 2021, 20:32

I'd do them separately. One right after the other while you have the wheel off, but not at the same time.

When the control arm is disconnected, the steering knuckle is floppy so it might be harder to loosen/remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle. Likewise, if the tie rod is already removed then the knuckle may be on the floppy side when you go to remove the control arm ball joint from the knuckle.

Outer tie rod job is quicker than control arm job if the jam nuts are already loosened, or can be a nightmare of the jam nuts are frozen. If you're doing inners too then per side it will probably take more time than a control arm. But if you're new to it then budget a good chunk of time per job, regardless. Order doesn't matter for function. Control arms first may give most ride improvement.

Control arm job is still straightforward but a bit more fiddly to reassemble due to getting the control arm level before tightening the the bolts on the bushings.

cmdz · Post by **cmdz** » 15 Aug 2021, 21:55

Really good advice, thank you!

I saw on one of the control arm videos from fcp or ipd that they unbolted the shocks and used a jack to raise to get it level. Any rec against that method?

Post by **erikv11** » 16 Aug 2021, 07:33

I'm not sure what you mean about unbolting the shocks. Unbolting them is not part of a control arm swap on an 850. For that job you only mess with three bolts: two at the subframe and one at the ball joint. Three bolts and one big hammer and it's out.

Using a jack under the ball joint works great to get the reinstalled control arm to near-level. I might put a small piece of wood between the jack and the ball joint, too. If the jack starts lifting the car then it's as far as it will go, go ahead and tighten the subframe bolts.

Post by **Eddystone** » 17 Aug 2021, 06:32

I'd still go for lowering the car to the ground and then tightening the bolts. Not necessarily a better way to go, but you are sure the arm is exactly where it should be. Nothing wrong with the jack thing, though. I actually lowered the car before tightening the rear shocks at the bushing end. I've got a long Snap-On 1/2" ratchet with a swivel head that I inherited from a friend's dad. It's pretty much breaker bar length and is really handy for wheel and suspension stuff.