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Brake Caliper Rebuild?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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GlennG2759
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Brake Caliper Rebuild?

Post by GlennG2759 »

Anybody rebuild brake calipers anymore? When I purchased my ‘06 V70 former owner gave boots, seals, and pistons. I’ve haven’t rebuilt a caliper in years, but thought I might try. Remanufactured calipers can be had for a reasonable price. Thoughts, is it worth the hassle, or anything special to look out for. Thanks in advance.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Remanufactured calipers can be had for a reasonable price.
There is a lot of junk out there. Remember, the cores will all say Volvo on them, but they arent the same as OE Volvo.

The rebuilds almost universally use pot metal for pistons, slides. My record was 18 months for a rebuilt to freeze up
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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

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Thought one rear caliper on the 03 Odyssey was binding as it went through a second set of pads (metal to metal) in a matter what seemed like 1.5 years. Prior to that it went for maybe 5 years on pads that came with the van and lasted around 70K plus miles. I don't keep records of repairs anymore as there are 3 2003 vehicles with higher miles. Fix things as they break, well, 2 have been sitting for months :oops: .

Took it apart and it was bright shiny polished chrome so wasn't the caliper. Probably the glide pins. Years ago I had honing tools for both the wheel cylinder for the drum brakes and another for the calipers. Only used a few times. I would rebuild if you can find the kits and if the bore is not heavily rusted or pitted.

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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

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The only things I would do different are:

1) Carefully use the brake pedal pressure to push the piston out after detaching the caliper. Keep an eye on the reservoir so it does not go below min and introduce air.
2) Cut one of fingers of a glove and wrap it around the end the brake line and rubber band. Never use a vise grip on the brake line to stop the gravity flow of the brake fluid.

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Excellent instruction but not the right way as he said.



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BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
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2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

I would prefer to rebuild the callipers only if you can procure OEM Volvo brand parts, second choice would be to get a good used one from the auto wreckers, third choice would be to purchase new Volvo ones (expensive but worth it), and as a last resort option, get rebuilt ones with the expectation that they probably won't last too long as abscate says.
I haven't looked but I suspect you can buy original Volvo parts to rebuild your existing callipers for a reasonable price, theres just a couple seals, you probably wouldn't even have to replace pistons.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

GlennG2759 wrote: 24 Aug 2021, 08:00
"former owner gave boots, seals, and pistons. I’ve haven’t rebuilt a caliper in years, but..."
No buts and as the saying go's, Just Do It! Since you have all the parts including pistons the only thing that can potentially hold you up is a rusted and pitted cylinder bore. Not hard considering all the videos available. You've done it before so shouldn't be an issue.

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Post by ionianp2 »

I tried rebuilding calipers recently for another car. Not a hard job at all. If you are in a northern climate prepare yourself for a lot of elbow grease with cleaning and brushing off rust. Also make sure your sliding pins are not crooked. Mine on my passenger's was. On the driver's side the piston was pitted and it wasn't worth the trouble cleaning it. Then again I don't have a garage and full set of tools. If you have tools and the space. More power to you :D

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Post by MoVolvos »

ionianp2 wrote: 24 Aug 2021, 13:15
If you are in a northern climate prepare yourself for a lot of elbow grease with cleaning and brushing off rust.
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Reminded me that I just purchased a gallon of 45% vinegar to kill weeds. I will use Tenacity first so the broad leaf weeds will bring it to the roots and a few days later I do a quick kill of the surface stuff and then mulch. I remember regular 5% vinegar being effective on rust so how much more and quicker the 45%. I see a lot of respiratory and mucus membrane warnings while using it so try it only with proper PPE and at your own risk.

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Blessings,

BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
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1989 240 Wagon Prior

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

I rebuilt the calipers in my 1998 V70 (P80 car) some 10 yrs ago, info in forum on how to rebuild.
I used ATE seal and boot.

The problem is I can't find ATE rebuild kit for P2 cars (S60, V70 etc.).

However, if you search ebay UK website, you will see some rebuild kits by "BiggRed" brand...
If anyone uses this brand, please post experience.

If anyone finds ATE rebuild kit, please post.

Example of FRONT rebuild kit by BiggRed on ebay UK...

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S60-Rebuild-Kit.jpg
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
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Post by XC70Rider »

I've rebuilt calipers plenty of times but when I got my P2 four years ago I decided to throw on new ATE calipers. The OEs where badly rusted. The ATEs are made for 18" wheels and have wider pistons. Brackets where included on all 4. I ordered them thru Advance Auto and got the fronts for only $100 each and the rears for $80 each. The fronts have nearly tripled in price and the rears are no longer available. Being new calipers there was NO core charge so I still have the OEs.

If you have an air compressor use it to push out the piston with a piece of wood for cushion. I use brake line plugs if I have the calipers off for time. When installing the bore ring and dust shield lubricate them with the same DOT4 brake fluid in the system. Flood the piston with brake fluid and you could just insert it manually. Replace the bleeder screws with M10 x 35mm x 1.0mm.

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